# IR Repeater woes....can this be done?



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

I've gone round and around trying to get my Xantech system working with my D* boxes, which are an HR-20 and two H-20's. All my other equipment works fine. It's only my sat boxes which seem finicky. Tried the tape over the eye trick, etc. It seems the new pro boxes have an IR input jack, but the ones I have do not. 
Is there a way to bypass the IR eye and wire something directly in to control these things? There are three pins where the eye connects to the circuit board. I'm assuming one for voltage, one for ground, and one for commands. Has someone here bypassed the eye altogether with success? I can solder and have some old boxes to experiment on.


----------



## curt8403 (Dec 27, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> I've gone round and around trying to get my Xantech system working with my D* boxes, which are an HR-20 and two H-20's. All my other equipment works fine. It's only my sat boxes which seem finicky. Tried the tape over the eye trick, etc. It seems the new pro boxes have an IR input jack, but the ones I have do not.
> Is there a way to bypass the IR eye and wire something directly in to control these things? There are three pins where the eye connects to the circuit board. I'm assuming one for voltage, one for ground, and one for commands. Has someone here bypassed the eye altogether with success? I can solder and have some old boxes to experiment on.


those units should have a connector on the back.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

What units are you referring to? The old boxes I have are SD boxes with no input that I am aware of.


----------



## curt8403 (Dec 27, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> What units are you referring to? The old boxes I have are SD boxes with no input that I am aware of.


sorry, I mean the H20 and HR20


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

It was my understanding that the new PRO version of the HR-20 has one, but mine don't. It's got USB, SATA, Data....basically everything but an IR input jack.


----------



## curt8403 (Dec 27, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> It was my understanding that the new PRO version of the HR-20 has one, but mine don't. It's got USB, SATA, Data....basically everything but an IR input jack.


it's a screw on connector like sat in. labeled RF

it connects an antenna to the internal workings for RF


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

I'm talking about infrared, not RF. I've got multiple boxes in an equipment closet and want independent control over them. IR seems the only way to go for this, as I have a four zone Xantech distribution system. My problem is with the IR receiver eye.


----------



## curt8403 (Dec 27, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> I'm talking about infrared, not RF. I've got multiple boxes in an equipment closet and want independent control over them. IR seems the only way to go for this, as I have a four zone Xantech distribution system. My problem is with the IR receiver eye.


hmm not sure on that. I do know that with my RCA tv it came with a connector on the back that allowed two emitters to be placed on the front of boxes like a sat box or vcr.


----------



## Tom Robertson (Nov 15, 2005)

For the IR port, the Pro has a special daughter board that may do the important work translating an IR signal to something the motherboard can use--at least where the daughter board plugs into the motherboard.

So can you replace the front panel IR with a feed from a xantech output? I'm sure you could in some fashion.

What about using RF instead. That won't violate a warranty nor Terms of Service if you're leasing.

Cheers,
Tom


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Eddie Horton said:


> I've gone round and around trying to get my Xantech system working with my D* boxes, which are an HR-20 and two H-20's. All my other equipment works fine. It's only my sat boxes which seem finicky. Tried the tape over the eye trick, etc. It seems the new pro boxes have an IR input jack, but the ones I have do not.
> Is there a way to bypass the IR eye and wire something directly in to control these things? There are three pins where the eye connects to the circuit board. I'm assuming one for voltage, one for ground, and one for commands. Has someone here bypassed the eye altogether with success? I can solder and have some old boxes to experiment on.


I wouldn't go inside. Besides violating the terms of your lease, I don't think wiring straight in would work.

It sounds like you've tried the normal tricks. DirecTV boxes are very sensitive to overload, which is why the tricks. In one system I hung the flasher a couple of inches in front of the receiver. That seemed to work best. Anything you can do to limit the flashers output would help.

Are you using blink emitters? If so, are they flashing constantly at a low level even when no commands are being given? I'm trying to see if you are getting interference, which would compound the problem.

I don't have any great ideas for you. I hate IR and IR repeating. I will be so glad when we get to the next technology, which will be wi-fi remote controls, with all components having their own IP address.


----------



## Thaedron (Jun 29, 2007)

What's the tape over the eye trick? Scotch tape? I have a Niles 4630 whole house amplifier that I used to use with an old SD receiver that I'm trying to replace with my H20, but I can't get the Niles to even power cycle the H20.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

You put a piece of black tape over the eye of the receiver but with a small pin prick hole in the center of it. You then stick the IR mouse emitter on the tape. The hole greatly limits the output of the flasher.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm already using RF for the HR-20 that feeds the master bedroom and living room. The problem is that I want to control 2 more H-20's independently that are also in the equipment closet. I don't think I could do RF on all three and have independent control, could I? Also, I'm not getting interference. I use LCD/CFL resistant receivers and have noticed no blinking on the emitters, and all the other equipment in the closet (Zenith DVB-318 DVD player, Pioneer universal player, Toshiba HD-D1 and Onkyo 805) work perfect with the system. I'd go RF if I could have independent control. Again, thanks for the responses, and keep the tips coming. I'm really struggling with this one, and the wife hates it, too.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

You might want to try using the Xantech SUNKIT on your receivers. It is cheap and are worth a shot.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks, Carl. May be worth a shot to use the white filter over the eye on the D* box to cut the output of the flasher. The problem seems to be that the flasher is overloading the receiver eye.


----------



## curt8403 (Dec 27, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> Thanks, Carl. May be worth a shot to use the white filter over the eye on the D* box to cut the output of the flasher. The problem seems to be that the flasher is overloading the receiver eye.


you might say "Blinded by the light" (Nod to Bruce Springsteen)
(sorry, bad joke)


----------



## Hansen (Jan 1, 2006)

You might consider one of the systems from URC. I'm using one that allows me to isolate each IR emitter separately and fine tune the output of that specific IR emitter. Works great on my HR20's.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Eddie Horton said:


> Thanks, Carl. May be worth a shot to use the white filter over the eye on the D* box to cut the output of the flasher. The problem seems to be that the flasher is overloading the receiver eye.


Agreed. You might even try using both filters together. Who knows? Figuring it out will be a matter of trial and error.


----------



## Thaedron (Jun 29, 2007)

Carl, or others... could you please comment re: the problem I describe in my Niles 4630 post? Is it the same problem as being described here?


----------



## Tom Robertson (Nov 15, 2005)

Eddie Horton said:


> Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm already using RF for the HR-20 that feeds the master bedroom and living room. The problem is that I want to control 2 more H-20's independently that are also in the equipment closet. I don't think I could do RF on all three and have independent control, could I? Also, I'm not getting interference. I use LCD/CFL resistant receivers and have noticed no blinking on the emitters, and all the other equipment in the closet (Zenith DVB-318 DVD player, Pioneer universal player, Toshiba HD-D1 and Onkyo 805) work perfect with the system. I'd go RF if I could have independent control. Again, thanks for the responses, and keep the tips coming. I'm really struggling with this one, and the wife hates it, too.


Yes, the RF is (nearly) unlimited independent control. When you switch a receiver and remote to RF, part of the encoding is the last 6 digits of the RID. So you can have quite a few receivers in your house before you get a duplicate. 

Almost all of my HR2x are RF controlled. No problems at all.

Cheers,
Tom


----------



## grandpaken (Feb 4, 2006)

Eddie Horton said:


> Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm already using RF for the HR-20 that feeds the master bedroom and living room. The problem is that I want to control 2 more H-20's independently that are also in the equipment closet. I don't think I could do RF on all three and have independent control, could I? Also, I'm not getting interference. I use LCD/CFL resistant receivers and have noticed no blinking on the emitters, and all the other equipment in the closet (Zenith DVB-318 DVD player, Pioneer universal player, Toshiba HD-D1 and Onkyo 805) work perfect with the system. I'd go RF if I could have independent control. Again, thanks for the responses, and keep the tips coming. I'm really struggling with this one, and the wife hates it, too.


 Doesn't each RF remote mate with the receiver which allows for multiple RF control?
I only have one of mine set for RF but when you add a second remote you have to enter the last 6 digits of the receiver ID. My other receiver is controlled with a Global
Cache GC100-6 with the emitter stuck directly on the IR eye. If you are getting too 
much power perhaps you could put a resister inline or a pot which would let you tweek the signal.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Tom and grandpaken, that's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks a bunch.


----------



## Lee L (Aug 15, 2002)

I use 2 different RF remotes from different rooms to control on HR20 I have in a closet.


As far as the emitters, could you get one of the old style flashers that just bean IR up and place it at the bottom to pick up all of the receivers, just not directly.


----------



## rudeney (May 28, 2007)

It sounds like you want to control the H20’s that are in the same cabinet via IR, correct? If you are getting cross-talk between the multiple channels on your Xantech system, then why not change one of them to use AV1 or AV2? If that’s not the problem, then my guess is you need to use “emitters” rather than “blaster” because you are overdriving the IR receiver on the H20’s. I use an RF receiver for my Pronto remotes on two of my HR20’s. On the one in the living room, I use a Xantech connecting block to combine signals from my Global Cache system and Pronto RFX6000 and distribute it to the HR20 and other HT devices with no problems at all, but all outputs are emitters – no “blasters”.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

I'm using emitters, not blasters. I've got two kinds, both Xantech. One has the talkback confirmation LED and the other kind does not. One is supposed to be lower output than the other. Also, both sides of the emitter sends signal. The flat side that you stick on the eye has lower emissions than the curved outer side. The only way I can get it to work is to dangle the emitter about two feet below the shelf the receiver is on and bounce the signal off of the equipment closet door. This presents another problem where the signal also reaches other D* boxes in the closet, preventing independent control. I may get a new RF universal remote with a base station. There are some nice URC models that have IR routing built into the base station. I have an MX-700, but it won't do RF. The problem there is spending several hundred on a new remote/base station setup without knowing for sure that it will work with the overly sensitive eyes on the D* boxes.


----------



## Lee L (Aug 15, 2002)

Oh, I see your issue. Why not jsut assign the receivers to various remote IDs. That way stray signals shouldnot be a problem.


----------



## MIMOTech (Sep 11, 2006)

I'm using The Xantech 789-44 with a 490 series IR/RX with XA-283 Emitters. I tried the blasters but it was not reliable for my setup. I get perfect control.


----------



## ThomasM (Jul 20, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> I'm using emitters, not blasters. I've got two kinds, both Xantech. One has the talkback confirmation LED and the other kind does not. One is supposed to be lower output than the other. Also, both sides of the emitter sends signal. The flat side that you stick on the eye has lower emissions than the curved outer side. The only way I can get it to work is to dangle the emitter about two feet below the shelf the receiver is on and bounce the signal off of the equipment closet door. This presents another problem where the signal also reaches other D* boxes in the closet, preventing independent control. I may get a new RF universal remote with a base station. There are some nice URC models that have IR routing built into the base station. I have an MX-700, but it won't do RF. The problem there is spending several hundred on a new remote/base station setup without knowing for sure that it will work with the overly sensitive eyes on the D* boxes.


I have an IR extender system made by Thompson with the RCA logo on it. I've learned that some of the newer fluorescent lights with solid-state ballasts don't operate the lamps at 60Hz like the old magnetic ballasts. Instead, they operate at higher frequencies *which trigger my IR extender system*. Usually the actual remote has a stronger beam so it overrides the "noise" from the lights.

I discovered this one day when I went to my R15-300 which has the receiving end of the IR extender aimed at it. I could not get it to respond by aiming my remote directly at the R15 until I *put an index card between the IR extender emitter and the R15!!*

Perhaps your system is receiving erroneus IR signals this same way which is either blocking and/or confusing your DirecTV receiver.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Good call, ThomasM. Florescent lights can kill a remote repeating system.

Thomas, I asked Eddie about this upthread and the combination of the fact that all his other components work fine using the IR repeating system and that he doesn't see chatter - constant, low level signals - on his blink LED emitters pretty much eliminate this possibility.

I didn't ask Eddie if he's also using CFL/LCD resistant remote receivers from Xantech. They make them and they are only about 10% more than regular LED receivers. Maybe he can enlighten us.


----------



## rudeney (May 28, 2007)

Eddie Horton said:


> I'm using emitters, not blasters. I've got two kinds, both Xantech. One has the talkback confirmation LED and the other kind does not. One is supposed to be lower output than the other. Also, both sides of the emitter sends signal. The flat side that you stick on the eye has lower emissions than the curved outer side. The only way I can get it to work is to dangle the emitter about two feet below the shelf the receiver is on and bounce the signal off of the equipment closet door. This presents another problem where the signal also reaches other D* boxes in the closet, preventing independent control.


If that's the only issue, and you have no more than three D* receivers in the closet, then program one for "DTV" mode, another for "AV1" and the third for "AV2". You can then forget about the Xantech zones. Of course your remote(s) will need to be programmed for the alternate AV1 and AV2 code sets.



> I may get a new RF universal remote with a base station. There are some nice URC models that have IR routing built into the base station. I have an MX-700, but it won't do RF. The problem there is spending several hundred on a new remote/base station setup without knowing for sure that it will work with the overly sensitive eyes on the D* boxes.


I've been a pronto fan since way back and I never any issues with their RF base stations. You should be able to get a used TSU3000 (B&W touchscreen) with an RFX6000 for under $200. Putting in the effort to create your own button layouts and screens can really make life easier in the long run. My wife has made me buy one for every TV in the house, and we have two in both the living room and bedroom (his & hers). We have an MX-500 at the beach and I hate it. That's my next project - to replace it with a Pronto.


----------



## Edmund (Apr 17, 2003)

rudeney said:


> If that's the only issue, and you have no more than three D* receivers in the closet, then program one for "DTV" mode, another for "AV1" and the third for "AV2". You can then forget about the Xantech zones. Of course your remote(s) will need to be programmed for the alternate AV1 and AV2 code sets.


problem with that is there aren't two AV1 & AV2 codesets, only one AV1/AV2 codeset.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Carl Spock said:


> Good call, ThomasM. Florescent lights can kill a remote repeating system.
> 
> Thomas, I asked Eddie about this upthread and the combination of the fact that all his other components work fine using the IR repeating system and that he doesn't see chatter - constant, low level signals - on his blink LED emitters pretty much eliminate this possibility.
> 
> I didn't ask Eddie if he's also using CFL/LCD resistant remote receivers from Xantech. They make them and they are only about 10% more than regular LED receivers. Maybe he can enlighten us.


Yes, I am using the CFL/LCD resistant receivers.


----------



## RichH25 (Jun 17, 2007)

Eddie,

I have a similar set up with 4 H20's and a HR20 in the same cabinet. Get a Xantech emitter shield cover for each emitter. This will keep the signal from the two sided emitter from interferring with the other H20's. I purchased mine from Smarthome. I positioned each emitter directly on the front of the D* receiver, moving it across the IR receiver window on the D* receiver until I got consistent performance. The emitter is on the edge of the IR receiver window for all of my receivers. This probably accomplishes the same thing as the pin whole in electrical tape trick. This set up as worked consistently for me for the past 8 months.

If you are still getting too much signal even we using black electrical tape with a pin whole, you may want to cover the IR receiver window with scotch tape (or multiple layers of scotch tape first, and then put the black tape with the pin whole on top. This will help attenuate the signal.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Rich, I think that will be what I do next. Just keep messing with it until it works right. Other folks seem to have had success with IR and these boxes, so I believe it's possible, just something I will need to work at further. With the Xantech 4 zone connecting block, this gives me exactly what I need with the upstairs A/V setup. Everything else works great with IR, I just need to get consistent results with the H-20's and HR-20. There is scotch tape, blue painters tape, electrical tape and index cards at the ready. Just need some time to tinker.


----------



## Campton (Mar 14, 2008)

I solved this same problem with my SAT box, apparently caused by extreme sensitivity of the IR window. I first tried moving the IR emitter and all manner of shielding with tape, but with no reliable results. I finally installed a 10,000 ohm resister in one of the wires to the emitter. It works perfectly now!


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Thanks, Campton. I'll pick up a few of these as well. Got a 1 X 8 RF distribution amp yesterday for my OTA antenna back-up system. Now if a thunderstorm messes up my signal during a great college football game, I can still pick up my locals in HD.


----------



## shaunatk (Mar 14, 2008)

I had problems with my Jobsite (Niles brand) IR repeater system. I ended up using an IR blaster instead of the emitter taped to the IR window, it's about 4 feet away from my equipment and controls everything perfectly. Now I just need to get my logitech remote programmed better!


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Well, I installed a 1k ohm resistor on the emitter, and BINGO!! The emitter is stuck directly to the center of the IR sensor on one of the H-20's and it works like a champ. Less than $1 for a pack of cheap resistors will solve all my woes. Go figure, and thanks Campton and everyone else who responded.


----------



## jimbojive (Mar 12, 2007)

I use the little x10 piramid units, rat shack has them 
works fine with my 2 IRDs in a closit with all my A/V and amp and Media pc


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

I'm so excited I have to post again. This has been life changing. The wife and I have spent countless hundreds on the upstairs A/V setup, not to mention the ongoing downstairs theater, and this IR system has had me pulling my hair out like nothing else. Seriously, less than $1 for a pack of resistors and about 2 minutes soldering one in line with the white wire on the emitter, and everything works great. This is huge for me.


----------



## Campton (Mar 14, 2008)

I am happy to have helped. Just a further note -- I found the 10k value by first connecting an old resister substitution box into the LED circuit. Values between about 6.8k and 15k seemed to work, but I used the 10k, which was about in the center of the range that worked. Other values might be better with other sender circuits. I suggest experimentation.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Well. guess what? The H-20 mentioned above is no longer responding to commands. I checked the resistor with my multi-meter, and it is good. It's reading 1k ohm on the dot. Back to square one. I had also purchased some 10k ohms with the 1's, so I'll try one of those next. It just doesn't make sense to work perfect for two days, and then nothing.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Intermittent IR problems. Imagine that. Have I mentioned, Eddie, how much I hate IR?

Yeah, I guess I did upthread.

I had a system that intermittantly would get chatter and stop working. It would be fine for weeks on end and then be bad for a couple of days. Some days it would be good for a while and then bad again. I spent hours at the customer's house trying to figure this one out. It got down to an IR receiver on a keypad in an unheated garage. When the temperature dropped to below zero, as it can here in Wisconsin in the winter, that receiver went kafluee and put out garbage. On the days it would work part of the time, the system would function in the afternoon as the day warmed up, but around 5 PM and sunset, down the system would go again. I disconnnected that keypad for the winter and the problem was solved, but it took way too long to figure out.

When I told Xantech tech support about this, they went, _huh?_ I believed them. It was just too weird to be true, although it certainly was.

Now I doubt this is your problem in Alabama  , but have I mentioned how much I hate IR?

Good luck in figuring it out, Eddie. If it was me, I'd keep an open mind and open eye, looking for a second problem elsewhere with that leg of your IR repeater system.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

The plot thickens. When it wasn't working, it was daylight. The IR receiver is in the kitchen. It didn't work with the blinds open or closed. Since nightfall, with all kitchen lighting on, it works again. I'm still going to try the 10k ohm resistor, because when it wasn't working right today, if I aimed the remote backwards and bounced the signal off the cabinets, it would work. I'll get this right if it puts me in the nut hatch.


----------



## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Remember - liquor is your friend.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Ha!! I don't drink, but to quote the great Lloyd Bridges in Airplane!, "Looks like I picked the wrong day to stop doing amphetamines." I did pick up a new Smith & Wesson .45 last week, and now I'm thinking of using all my Xantech stuff and maybe a few sat receivers for target practice.


----------



## Lee L (Aug 15, 2002)

Maybe use the resistor and also cover the emitter with tape or the Xantech covers that sheild it form outside IR.


----------



## bluegoose (Dec 16, 2006)

Hey everbody, lots of good info here. I am in the market for an IR Reapter. My reason is because all my equipment is behind glass and depending on how I am resting on the sofa  sometimes it will work and sometimes not. Personally I would like a repater where I can sdjust the output of each indivadual emitter because I hate the idea that I have a transmitter so close to the receiver.

I did find this fix: 

Niles RCA-HT 
Written By Carl M, Burleson, TX on Sunday, March 23, 2008 

All in all, this is a very nice product. The major issue is using it with the DirecTV HD DVR. Have tried various configurations, but the reliability and performance is very inconsistent and frustrating. Every other component, receiver, CD, DVD Player, etc., works just fine. It would be nice if Niles offered some guidance on how to resolve this issue. Ended up adding a neutral density filter in front of the IR transmitter and positioning it approximately 4 inches in front of the HD DVR. 

Brad


----------



## Thaedron (Jun 29, 2007)

Ok, I was excited to get this working with the resitor trick... inserted a 1.5k ohm resistor inline with the IR emitter and... not a damn bit of difference. I can control the R10 power flawlessly, but not the H20 to save my life. (Power is just the one code I'm working with).

Guess I'll take Carl's advice and go visit the liquor cabinet... rum or gin...


----------



## armophob (Nov 13, 2006)

Ok, I hate to drag this back up. I am now in the market for an IR repeater for an Escient DVDM-100. This unit has the ir in plug, so emitters are not an issue. I just cannot seem to get away from spending over $100 for a simple plasma free receiver and block from Xantech. Any ideas before I shell out that many clams?


----------



## cwdonahue (Jun 6, 2007)

armophob said:


> Ok, I hate to drag this back up. I am now in the market for an IR repeater for an Escient DVDM-100. This unit has the ir in plug, so emitters are not an issue. I just cannot seem to get away from spending over $100 for a simple plasma free receiver and block from Xantech. Any ideas before I shell out that many clams?


I bought an IR repeater unit made by SpeakerCraft when I moved my HR20-100 into the cabinet below my TV. I think I paid about $100 for it. Maybe $70. It's got more IR inputs and capabilities than I need, but I couldn't find anything that was really less $$. The good news is that it works very well.


----------



## rudeney (May 28, 2007)

How about one of these?

http://www.smarthome.com/8045i.html

No issues with needing "plasma proof" receivers because it's all RF. BTW, Smarthome may not have the lowest price on this, but it was the first place that came to mind where I could find it.


----------



## VeniceDre (Aug 16, 2006)

I ran into a huge problem a couple weeks ago with getting 3 Hr21 receivers working with IR repeater systems in 3 different rooms in the same house.

After going through many different emitters and brands of equipment I found that it wasn't the flashers that were the problem, it was the receiver (eye). I tried several different models from Niles & Xantech and the only receiver that worked was the Xantech Dinky Link and Table Top Plasma Proof Receivers.

http://www.smarthome.com/81206b.html

The regular table top and dinky link didn't work, only the Plasma Proof models. All three rooms are working now with no problems.

They are much more expensive than the basic models and the Niles, but they work!


----------



## armophob (Nov 13, 2006)

I ended up with a Optilinq & Niles Remote Control IR Repeater I got off of ebay for $66. It is working fine.


----------



## Eddie Horton (Mar 10, 2008)

Major update!! The IR receiver I am using is the Xantech Hidden Link CFL/LCD resistant receiver. After going around and around for months, I decided to take the receiver apart just for kicks. While having it apart, I noticed that if I moved it around in front of me, the talkback LED on the unit would blink, meaning it was getting some kind of interference from my LCD screen or the CFL's in the room. I also noticed that the receiver has two IR eyes in it. Don't know why. Anyway, if I covered up the left eye, it would no longer light the LED when moving it around. I took some electrical tape and covered the eye up, put it back together, mounted it back on top of the TV, and decided to see what would happen. Everything works perfectly now!! My HR-20 has been rock solid all day!! My XBOX 360 will now respond to IR, as well. Before, it was like the HR-20. Just thought I'd share this in case it could help someone else.


----------

