# Home Theater Suggestions



## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

I am currently beginning construction on my home theater and I would like to ask you all what are the must have things for a home theater?


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## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

What a question! :eek2:

I get to ask the next ones:

What size of a room?
Who's watching? (family, kids)
What do you watch the most? (TV, DVD, games)
Do you know how big a TV you want?
Do you know what kind of TV you want? 
How important is the sound to you?
Anything really special we should know about? (access, windows, furniture)

And, of course, do you have a budget?


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

The room is about 23x17 feet

Family and friends

Mainly movies thn sports and games

120"

I have a Sony VPL VW-40 projector

Sound is very important,I have a 3310ci Denon amp with 6 deftech tower speakers and one center channel. 2 of which have built in powered 10" subs.

Nothing special

I had a budget but of course I didn't stick to it,lol. 

As long as it's not super expensive I can be talked into buying it.


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Brandon428 said:


> The room is about 23x17 feet
> 
> Family and friends
> 
> ...


You're off to a good start.

Good seating is a must, and beverages nearby as well.

Your room size should be fine, although even number dimensions aid in harmonics prevention better than odd numbers. Main thing is its not a square shape.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

staggered stud walls with extra insulation
riser
acoustical treatments at first reflection points.
bass traps in the four corners at a minimum
wire for 9.4
separate climate zone


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## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

hdtvfan0001 said:


> Brandon428 said:
> 
> 
> > The room is about 23x17 feet
> ...


But assuming an 8' ceiling, the three dimensions are roughly 1-2-3 multiples of each other. Standing waves worry me.

It's always impossible to prejudge these things, but I'd like to see a smaller space around the screen. It looks more dramatic and would help the sound. You could go down to 7' in height, which might not do much for standing waves but couldn't hurt. I would also shorten the stage's width. You should have a lot of flexibility here. Brandon428, what do you think of a wing off at least one side of the stage? You could build the electronics into this front false wall, and by adding a door, get back panel access. This false wall would break up bass waves.

In the back of the room, I might look toward stadium seating, with the back rows chairs on progressively higher platforms. That would go a long way to refracting standing waves.


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## Nighthawk68 (Oct 14, 2004)

Denon Blu-Ray Player DBP-2010ci (or the forthcoming DBP-2011ci with streaming Netflix)
Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 G3

These would go great with your setup, also make sure you run the Audyssey speaker setup once you have everything setup


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Carl Spock said:


> In the back of the room, I might look toward *stadium seating*, with the back rows chairs on progressively higher platforms. That would go a long way to refracting standing waves.


Enjoy ours here...stadium seating is nice to have.


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## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> wire for 9.4


You're undoubtably right but I can't imagine that many speakers in this small a room.


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Carl Spock said:


> You're undoubtably right but I can't imagine that many speakers in this small a room.


7.1 THX here - perfect...2450 watts of potential audio.... 1/4 power vibrates the intestines...


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

Carl Spock said:


> You're undoubtably right but I can't imagine that many speakers in this small a room.


Well, you never know what's gonna happen with height channels and while I'd never go with 4 subs (dual subs are fine for me), it's nice to have alternate locations wired.

As far as stadium seating (which is what I call a riser in my earlier post), I wouldn't go with more than one step. With 17' of width, there's plenty of room to spread things out and with a 120" screen, there won't really be room for more than one row anyway (unless you put a stand up bar behind the second row with bar stools - but you'd still only need one riser)


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> Well, you never know what's gonna happen with height channels and while I'd never go with 4 subs (dual subs are fine for me), it's nice to have alternate locations wired.
> 
> As far as stadium seating (which is what I call a riser in my earlier post), I wouldn't go with more than one step. With 17' of width, there's plenty of room to spread things out and with a 120" screen, there won't really be room for more than one row anyway (unless you put a stand up bar behind the second row with bar stools - but you'd still only need one riser)


My room is 24' deep, and stadium seating is ideal...the back row is 23'8" distance from my 116" screen.

As for your idea on subs...agree....pre-wiring for other locations is a good idea....you can always move them in the future if you wish without any problems that way. I had multiple locations pre-wired here.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

hdtvfan0001 said:


> My room is 24' deep, and stadium seating is ideal...the back row is 23'8" distance from my 116" screen.


How many levels do you have?

My rear row is also up against the rear wall, but if I had it to do over again, I'd put 4'-5' between the rear wall and the last row of seats for better sound separation and utilize a stand up bar instead.


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## Richard King (Mar 25, 2002)

RESILIENT SOUND ISOLATION CLIPS RSIC-1

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/rsic_clips/risc_clips.htm


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> How many levels do you have?
> 
> My rear row is also up against the rear wall, but if I had it to do over again, I'd put 4'-5' between the rear wall and the last row of seats for better sound separation and utilize a stand up bar instead.


My rear row is against a 5' partial-height wall - its open to the adjoining space (billiard area) with a granite top and pillars, so sound can "escape" past the back of the theater.

I also deployed coiffured 9' ceilings in the theater, as well as 4' wide arched side walls and an 8' front section surrounding the projection screen. All walls have 2 X 6 studs with corresponding insulation.

Having read many months about the effects of stadium seating and acoustical impact of various wall and ceiling designs, I managed to eliminate the need for ANY acoustical paneling.

The ISF certified engineer who worked with me on our design and also did the multiple-level sound measurements (once construction was complete) was pleasantly surprised to see how well our "techniques" had "virtually eliminated harmonic and reflective sound patterns" in the Home Theater.

Many things can play a role in audio results - even carpeting (type and density), furniture (location and material), floor material (wood, concrete, other) and wall hangings (fixtures, etc.).

There is the final issue of sound absorption in the context of transferring to other parts of the home. Once can use staggered studs, special drywall, dense insulation, special under-drywall material fabric, and other things to negate "the whole home hearing the Home Theater".

No two Home Theaters are alike when it comes to how they handle audio. I've personally seen over 60 dedicated Home Theaters, and how they handled audio all varied as well.

My best advice - research....read...and plan everything in detail BEFORE any construction takes place. Measure twice, cut once.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

So, you have one riser, correct? (which was my original question)

As do I. As I also recommended for the OP.

Sounded like you and Carl were advocating multiple seating levels and I think the room is too small for that.


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## Carl Spock (Sep 3, 2004)

Richard King said:


> RESILIENT SOUND ISOLATION CLIPS RSIC-1
> 
> http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/rsic_clips/risc_clips.htm


I like the clips! 

I've used metal furring strips to positive effect in containing sound, not only in customer's houses but in my stereo store. The two car stereo rooms and the two audio rooms all had real ceilings and furring strips on the walls. On a busy Saturday we could crank up everything and still have confersations at a normal level on the main sales floor.

The OP didn't say if sound isolation is a requirement, but these should work great.

Nice call, Richard. :righton:


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> *So, you have one riser, correct?* (which was my original question)
> 
> As do I. As I also recommended for the OP.
> 
> Sounded like you and Carl were advocating multiple seating levels and I think the room is too small for that.


Yes....one riser for the rear row seating.

One P.S.

Since I made the back wall a "1/2" wall...and the top is a granite top with pillars on the ends...I can also take my 3 Kitchen/bar nicely padded stool seats and have folks use that as a place to sit and have beverages...adding seating for 3-4 more people.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

hdtvfan0001 said:


> Yes....one riser for the rear row seating.
> 
> One P.S.
> 
> Since I made the back wall a "1/2" wall...and the top is a granite top with pillars on the ends...I can also take my 3 Kitchen/bar nicely padded stool seats and have folks use that as a place to sit and have beverages...adding seating for 3-4 more people.


Yes, having a stand up type bar at the rear is an ideal situation, IMO.

with a depth of 23', it's possible the OP could still do that if he had seating at 13' & 18'.

Similar to what they did in one of my favorite theaters:


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> Yes, having a stand up type bar at the rear is an ideal situation, IMO.
> 
> with a depth of 23', it's possible the OP could still do that if he had seating at 13' & 18'.
> 
> Similar to what they did in one of my favorite theaters:


Very nice and yes...similar.


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

spartanstew said:


> Well, you never know what's gonna happen with height channels and while I'd never go with 4 subs (dual subs are fine for me), it's nice to have alternate locations wired.
> 
> As far as stadium seating (which is what I call a riser in my earlier post), I wouldn't go with more than one step. With 17' of width, there's plenty of room to spread things out and with a 120" screen, there won't really be room for more than one row anyway (unless you put a stand up bar behind the second row with bar stools - but you'd still only need one riser)


Here's a quick question. I only have one sub output on my amp. Could I get a splitter or something to connect multiple subs? Also I have the option to download the software to be able to use the height channels all though it eliminates my surround back channels.


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

spartanstew said:


> Yes, having a stand up type bar at the rear is an ideal situation, IMO.
> 
> with a depth of 23', it's possible the OP could still do that if he had seating at 13' & 18'.
> 
> Similar to what they did in one of my favorite theaters:


I really like this idea!


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

Brandon428 said:


> Could I get a splitter or something to connect multiple subs?


Yes, it's usually called a Y-splitter or Y-cable.


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

Nitehawk^ said:


> Denon Blu-Ray Player DBP-2010ci (or the forthcoming DBP-2011ci with streaming Netflix)
> Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 G3
> 
> These would go great with your setup, also make sure you run the Audyssey speaker setup once you have everything setup


I have a PS3 and I use the amp to scale the video. Will the Denon Blu-Ray player make a big difference in video and audio quality?


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

What would be better for sound proofing a suspended tile ceiling or a drywall ceiling?


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Brandon428 said:


> What would be better for sound proofing a suspended tile ceiling or a drywall ceiling?


In most cases....drywall, especially if you add some form of insulation, and especially if you use the insulation fabric available out there specifically designed for that purpose - sound insulation.

Coiffured ceilings are also an added benefit over a flat ceiling, in that they defuse some of the reflective sound patterns in the room - if you can do it. In my case...I was able to start with 9 1/2 foot ceilings, so I still have 9 foot ceilings in most of the theater and 8 1/2 foot in the remaining areas. You can see some of that effect in my avatar image.


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

I just want to say thanks to everyone for the tips,I really appreciate them. I have a contractor (a friend) who's gonna come and help me with the construction. What are some cool gadgets or decorations that you all would recommend? I know I need to get a harmony remote. Which model do you recommend?


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

I think I'm gonna use my iPad as an universal remote instead of a harmony remote. Has anyone else tried this?


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## mdavej (Jan 31, 2007)

Lots of people (LINK). Although it's extremely cool, nothing beats an actual remote with buttons that you don't have to look at, responds instantly, has a huge code database, doesn't require daily recharging and costs less than $500. And I know from how often I drop my remote or knock off an end table or chair that I would cry if that happened to my iPad.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

Brandon428 said:


> I just want to say thanks to everyone for the tips,I really appreciate them. I have a contractor (a friend) who's gonna come and help me with the construction. What are some cool gadgets or decorations that you all would recommend? I know I need to get a harmony remote. Which model do you recommend?


You need a popcorn machine, for sure. Here's the one I have:










Most people will recommend the Harmony One.


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## Herdfan (Mar 18, 2006)

Since no one seems to have mentioned it:

Lighting Control! In a space that size, you need at least 3 zones of lighting at a minimum:

1) Recessed lighting in ceiling to fully illuminate room for cleaning, gear changeout etc.
2) Wall sconces for daily use. They will be what gets turned on and used when people are arriving or leaving
3) Low-level lights around baseboards or in steps/risers for use during movies. Complete darkness is not usually the best for watching movies, but you don't want anything that can reflect off the screen

You can then always add rope lights in a trey ceiling or other lights you may want.

Control: A Lutron Grafik Eye would be my first choice as it will allow you to control up to 6 zones and set scenes. Second choice would be URC Lighting which can be natively controlled by URC remotes. Similar but more limited scene capabilities as the GE. There are always other lighting control options such as Z-Wave or UPB, but they tend to be more of a kludge.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

Well, I have 3 zones in my HT and I rarely use them. Basically all the lights are on when people are getting seated/pre-movie (on about 1/2 power), and then they're all off when the movies playing.

There is the occasion when I'll have just the sconces on low if I'm watching sports or multi-tasking with my laptop or something though.

I could have easily gotten by with 2 zones and could have survived with one.


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## Brandon428 (Mar 21, 2007)

I'm definitely gonna have lighting control,what about speaker wire? What gauge and brand should I use?


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Brandon428 said:


> I'm definitely gonna have lighting control,what about speaker wire? What gauge and brand should I use?


You only want to run speaker wire once...and never have to tear open the walls later....so get some quality stuff.

There are plenty of brands - most important is good copper wire and good insulation.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

You'll be fine with 14 gauge.

Just check out monoprice or bluejeanscable


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## Cholly (Mar 22, 2004)

spartanstew said:


> You need a popcorn machine, for sure. Here's the one I have:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Also check out www.rtheaters.com - They carry Berkline theater seating, other A/V furniture and a myriad of popcorn machines. Very nice outfit to deal with.
We have an Old Tyme Movie Theater popcorn machine w/cart that I picked up at Sam's Club for $200 a few years ago. It only has a 4 oz. kettle, so it takes several batches to satisy our family of 6 on movie nights. Shortly after I bought mine, they had a similar one with an 8 oz. kettle for about the same price. I buy 50 pound bags of popcorn at Sam's for under $17 and repack it in plastic jugs to preserve popping quality.


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## spartanstew (Nov 16, 2005)

Cholly said:


> Also check out www.rtheaters.com - They carry Berkline theater seating, other A/V furniture and a myriad of popcorn machines. Very nice outfit to deal with.


I'd recommend stargatecinema.com too


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

Cholly said:


> Also check out www.rtheaters.com - They carry Berkline theater seating, other A/V furniture and a myriad of popcorn machines. Very nice outfit to deal with.


Don't forget about local retailers.

We got terrific pricing on our Berkline recliners at a local Home Theater store...below anything seen to date online or elsewhere on the same units. Theya re also still going strong now after 4 years - like new.


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