# HIC and ethernet connections



## barken (Jan 16, 2009)

Just completed new construction. I have three cable drops and three network drops going to each viewing location.

I'm considering converting from 3-722s to h2k/joey system and I have some questions.

1. As I understand, I will not need HIC since I connect h2k directly into a network drop. Is this correct?

2. H2k shows two ethernet ports on back and documentation states there are two ports. What is the purpose of two? Any advantage or disadvantage of connecting both in the same subnet?

3. Joey connects via cable (MOCA). Should the joey also be direct connected via ethernet? What is the purpose?


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## gtal98 (Jan 30, 2011)

1. Correct.

2. I haven't tried, but I believe the two ports are just so you could pass the internet thru to another device (basically a 2-port switch). No advantage to connecting both.

3. Joeys do not need internet at this point. If they stream something the Hopper is what requests it from it's internet connection and relays it to the Joeys.


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## barken (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks for that. It all makes sense. I guess my 3 cable and 3 network installation was overkill considering the way Hopper/joey now work, but it does give me flexibility for receiver, XBOX, ROKU and other things that can use the network drops.


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## scocats (Mar 26, 2012)

I have internet hooked up directly to both my hoppers, If you want to watch Blockbuster or on demand on your joeys they must have an internet connection. In my case anyway, i had to get a HIC adapter from Dish $25.00. I dont know if this is because my joeys were hooked on a tap from the hoppers instead of going through the Duonode which has isolaters installed????


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## txsrooster (Mar 19, 2012)

My install was last week. I only have internet to one hopper due to the location of the 2nd hopper. The installer did not have a HIC on the truck so I chatted up Dish network today to get a HIC. They sent a guy out who had NO CLUE. I had to leave due to a family emergency and let my son and wife here. The installer said it won't work and that they can run a new data line for $50. He said the HIC is only to get internet to the Joeys..and that his boss confirmed that it wouldn't work. I told him we will reschedule at a time when I can be home and I would print out the proper set up procedures JUST IN CASE it is him that comes back.


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## scocats (Mar 26, 2012)

In my case with direct connection of the internet to hopper 1, it did not share internet with my other hopper or any of the 3 Joeys. I ordered a hic from the dish store for $25.00. I installed a tap before hopper 1 and it only feeds the HIC. As soon as I hooked this up Hopper 2 and all 3 Joeys started sharing internet, DLNA started working on everything and was also able to order on demand from the Joeys. My original installer said direct connection to 1 hopper was all that was required but in my case it did not work. While reading endless crap on the internet I came across an original Dish installers blurb for the hopper/joey system and it advised to always use a HIC for internet connection. My install was also first for this area 3-16-12 is it possible the first Hoppers that came out do not have internet sharing enabled for the MOCA?? Doesnt matter now as everything works for me except for PTAT. I was adivsed that it is DMA problem as I only get 1 HD big 4 network and my fox and abc are in contract dispute with dish. Supposedly an undisclosed software update will take care of this.


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

8-28-2021

4 Wireless Joeys here, and 1 Hopper 3 DVR. Network is Linksys MESH Velop; 1 AC2200 Tri-Band, and 4 AC1300 Dual-Band Nodes. The AC2200 is the Master and Router Node. The AC1300 Nodes are all set as "Child". Each AC1300 Node is Ethernet connected, (Cat-5), to each Wireless Joey Box. The Hopper 3 is wired, (also Cat-5), to a Netgear GS-108 8 Port Switch daisy chained to another GS-108, and finally connected to the AC2200 via Cat-5 on the 2nd Port of the AC2200.

While the Wireless Joeys MAINTAIN IP Connection, keeping "10.x.y.z" Addresses DHCP Assigned by the AC2200, the Hopper 3 DVR KEPT LOSING DHCP Assignment AND instead, (think Win NT 4 days of Networking), ASSIGNED ITSELF an Internal, Non-Routable IP Address of "169.x.y.z" and thus LOST ALL CONNECTIVITY to the Joeys. With that said, we had NO TV in the house, because the Joeys COULD NOT communicate with the Hopper.

The AC2200's Primary Port connects via Cat-5e, (the white flat ribbon style Ethernet cable that comes with the Linksys Tri-Band Node), to our U-Verse NVG-599 Gateway. For those NOT in the know about U-Verse hardware, the NVG-599 is Electronically and Physically IDENTICAL to the newer 5268AC Gateway. Apparently DISH Network Hardware has GREAT ISSUES keeping connected to CERTAIN U-Verse Gateways.... The 5268AC being ONE of them.

One DISH Network Employee Tech, (NOT a Contractor), called up the chain at DISH to what he called the 'Advanced Engineering Team'. They told him to go into the Hopper's programming and turn "Bridge Mode" 'OFF' and Reboot the Hopper 3 DVR.

This kept the Hopper 3 connected to the MESH Network via the AC2200 node's DHCP Assignment to a proper "10.x.y.z" Address BUT that ONLY lasted 6 DAYS!!!! This was in April, 2021, and since then to about a week ago, I was having to wake up between 4 and 4:30 AM, (Pacific), to reboot the DVR on a daily basis. I FINALLY performed an Internet Search to find out WHY DISH Equipment, (specifically the Hopper 3 DVR), had such issues with U-Verse Gateways. I came across a random site with a Post from a U-Verse Customer with a Hopper 1 DVR that mentioned the ONLY FIX for him was to have DISH install something called an "HIC Device".

Well, upon calling DISH Support back and getting, (randomly), a Level 2 Tech Support guy named Ethan, (Phone ID: 'VHN'), that his home setup was ALMOST exactly like mine and that YES, due to issues between U-Verse and DISH Equipment that an HIC, (Hopper Internet Connector), IS REQUIRED to resolve the issue.

A week ago, today, (8-21-2021), a REAL DISH Network Employee Tech, (NOT a contractor), came out to the house. He replaced the Hopper 3, (in case it was a defective unit, because of our DAILY issues of having to reboot it), AND installed an HIC Device.

The HIC installs like this: First the COAX Line from the Satellite DISH going into the Hopper 3 gets pulled from the Hopper 3. THEN, that COAX is connected to the Primary Input Port on a 2-Way Splitter. THEN, the Second 'Out' Port of the Splitter is connected to the Input COAX Port on the HIC. Next, the Ethernet Cable that is generally connected to one of the Hopper 3's Ethernet Ports, (Top Port in my case), gets pulled from the Hopper and is moved to the Ethernet Port on the HIC. The COAX "Out" Port of the HIC that would normally support MoCA to Wired Joeys gets a Terminator Plug connected to it. (Because we are on Wireless Joeys here.) FINALLY the AC Power is connected to the HIC Device. The HIC obtains its Address from our AC2200 Router Node. ("10.x.y.z") The LAST step now is to take the first 'Out' Port from the 2-Way Splitter and connect it to the Hopper 3's COAX Port.

With this configuration, the HIC holds the DHCP Assigned Address from our AC2200 Router Node, and forwards that Address to the Hopper over COAX. Since the HIC has been installed, I've monitored connection and connectivity for the last 7 working days AND NO MORE "169.x.y.z" Address Assignment of the Hopper to the Hopper has occurred! IF this holds one more day, I will then consider the matter closed and resolved.

With DISH KNOWING that they have issues with certain U-Verse Gateways, and KNOWING we are on U-Verse and will remain on U-Verse, we SHOULD have been given an HIC Device from the start. Instead, I had to search for the answer and have an Installation Tech come out for the UMPTEENTH time to FINALLY have this HIC Device installed.

In MoCA installations with Wired Joeys, the "Out" COAX Port from the HIC gets connected to the Home's COAX Lines to communicate with the Wired Joeys and keep connectivity between the Wired Joeys and the Hopper 3. In my case, it is NOT used. All communications on my Network are via Ethernet.

All is working, now. (+7 Days on DISH Network WITHOUT issues.)

Good Luck one and all, and I hope that this Post helps someone else out there.

*[EDIT:]*

9-5-2021 at 1:40 PM - PDT

The new HIC is STILL working, and passing through the proper IP, (10.x.y.z), Address from the Linksys Velop MESH AC-2200 Router Node to the Hopper 3 DVR. Have had ONE glitch this past week where after having the downstairs' Family Room STB/Joey on and within 3 Minutes powering up the Master Bedroom STB/Joey Box, the Family Room 'glitched' giving a 'Cannot connect to Hopper 3' generic Msg on Display for just a moment, then reset and TV came back on. Unfortunately, the Master Bedroom remained on the same 'Cannot connect to Hopper 3' Msg.... Had to Power Off the Master Bedroom Joey, wait until the Green Light went off, counted 10 seconds for good measure, and powered back on the Joey. TV came up with NO more issues.

Since then, NO other issues to report.

I think the HIC truly has resolved our TV issues between the DISH Hopper 3 and the U-Verse NVG-599 Gateway.

*[EDIT 2]*

Forgot to mention that with the Wireless Joeys all connected via Ethernet to the AC1300 MESH Nodes, the DISH WAP Devices ARE NOT needed in this Setup. Besides, they seemed to just give out MASSIVE Pixelations to ALL STBs on the Network. This is why DISH Installers seem to be wary of the Wireless Boxes. However in my configuration, they should NOT fear installing the Wireless Joey STBs.

*[EDIT 3]*

The Hopper 3 is in a 'Closet' Room above the garage. I call this room "The Office" and it holds ALL our Electronics. (U-Verse Gateway, 3 Vonage, (Residential), Devices, a Hackintosh, and a 2010 Mac Pro. The Hopper 3 has an ASUS VE228, 22" Monitor attached to it. )

Our home was CURSED for TV stability until getting DISH and the HIC.

TimeLord04


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

TimeLord04 said:


> The HIC installs like this: First the COAX Line from the Satellite DISH going into the Hopper 3 gets pulled from the Hopper 3. THEN, that COAX is connected to the Primary Port on a 2-Way Splitter. THEN, the Second Port of the Splitter is connected to the Input COAX Port on the HIC. Next, the Ethernet Cable that is generally connected to one of the Hopper 3's Ethernet Ports, (Top Port in my case), gets pulled from the Hopper and is moved to the Ethernet Port on the HIC. The COAX "Out" Port that would normally support MoCA to Wired Joeys gets a Terminator Plug connected to it. (Because we are on Wireless Joeys here.) FINALLY the AC Power is connected to the HIC Device. The HIC obtains its Address from our AC2200 Router Node. ("10.x.y.z") The LAST step now is to take the other "Out" Port from the 2-Way Splitter and connect it to the Hopper 3's COAX Port.


If you would post a couple pictures of the HIC: front, back, top, bottom label, it will be fantastic post !:thumbsup:


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

P Smith said:


> If you would post a couple pictures of the HIC: front, back, top, bottom label, it will be fantastic post !:thumbsup:


Unfortunately, I don't have the capabilities to obtain and post labelled picture diagrams.  Hence my text's description, sorry.

*[EDIT:]*

Just re-edited the HIC Installation text some more. I hope I made things clearer.


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

P Smith said:


> If you would post a couple pictures of the HIC: front, back, top, bottom label, it will be fantastic post !:thumbsup:


How about we worry about solving the problem rather than satisfying your curiosity for minutiae?

Amazon has pictures of the front and back.


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

@TimeLord04 Your text was a daunting read. Could you summarize what you're trying to accomplish in a sentence or two?

I'm afraid that I'm not seeing the problem for all of the backstory.


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

*@harsh*

Simply, the Hopper 3 kept losing the Assigned IP Address from the MESH Router Node, AND INSTEAD Assigned itself an Internal, Non-Routable IP Address, (go back to the old Win NT4 days), of "169.x.y.z". This promptly took the Hopper 3 OFF the Network, and left the Joeys abandoned.
However; unlike the Hopper 3, the Joeys MAINTAINED their properly Assigned IP Addresses from the MESH Router of "10.x.y.z", BUT without connectivity to the Hopper 3, we had NO TV in the house.

The HIC, (after a thorough Internet Search), I discovered was MANDATORY for our Network as we are on U-Verse Internet on an NVG-599 Gateway, which in all respects, according to AT&T is IDENTICAL to the 5268AC Gateway. This, apparently, is an issue for DISH Hopper equipment.
The Hoppers, (from original design to the Hopper 3), DO NOT work with specific U-Verse Gateways, the NVG-599 AND 5268AC are two of them. DISH was NOT forthcoming with this information, and UNTIL I found out about the HIC, they had NO resolution for us.

The HIC HAS resolved ALL connectivity issues of the Hopper over the U-Verse Network - even though we are behind the Gateway AND on the MESH Network.

*[EDIT:]*

Just before installing the MESH Network, we had the Hopper 3 connectivity problem directly connected to the U-Verse Gateway as well. The MESH Network DID resolve the need for the DISH WAP devices. The WAPs seemed to interject MASSIVE pixelations, anyway; so, after going to MESH and wiring the Joeys by Ethernet, NO WAPs were needed. This whole endeavor took 6 Months to completely figure out on my own, as I indicated, DISH had NO resolution for us. Once I found out about the HIC and had that installed, the Hopper 3 stabilized and all connectivity is good.

TimeLord04


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

harsh said:


> Amazon has pictures of the front and back.


Search on the site by "Hopper Internet Connector" or "dish hic" gave hundred not related items. Are you trolling ?!


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

https://www.amazon.com/Dish-Network-Hopper-Internet-Connector/dp/B007SX04TE


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

Just for teaching people include myself - what keywords used to find it ?
I did copy from a name of the page (in quotas!) - got 200 items 
Added check to "Out of stock" - nothing close.


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

I originally DID NOT know the existence of the HIC or that I had to search for HIC, or "Hopper Internet Connector".

My initial search parameters were "Why does the DISH Hopper have issues with U-Verse Gateways", or some such wording to that effect. This yielded ONE result on some obscure Site that another U-Verse Customer with DISH and Hopper 1 mentioned the HIC.

From there, I went back to DISH to ask IF this HIC would resolve our issues, and was told "Yes" by DISH CSR Tech Level 2 'Ethan, "VHN" ' who set up ANOTHER Tech visit to our home.

Again, this WHOLE ENDEAVOR took 6 Months to get corrected BECAUSE DISH WOULD NOT provide the resolution of the HIC to us, UNTIL I found it on the Web.

NO TROLLING HERE!

*[EDIT:]*

DBSTalk DID NOT even come up in my original search UNTIL I knew the existence of the HIC. THEN, I performed other Searches on the Web including the "HIC" Parameter, AND THEN found this Site.

*[EDIT 2]*

My goal, here, was to Post about my family's troubles over 6 Mos with DISH and U-Verse to be able to help others find resolution FASTER than I did.

TimeLord04


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

TimeLord04 said:


> NO TROLLING HERE!


I knew 
It was q to harsh...


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

P Smith said:


> I knew
> It was q to harsh...


Sorry, P Smith; I misunderstood the Post.... Thought that was directed at me.

Also, one DISH CSR Level 1 Rep ACTUALLY asked, "Why not switch Internet Providers?" Simply, our city is a "Duopoly". We are stuck between U-Verse and COMCAST-XFINITY. At least with U-Verse, our current Internet Package is "Dedicated". Further, our 50Mb Package DL a 20GB Game FASTER than COMCAST-XFINITY Business 200Mb Package. On our Internet, StarCraft:Remastered DL took between 5-6 Min.
On a friend's COMCAST-XFINITY Business 200Mb Internet, the same game took 20 Min. Mostly because COMCAST is 'shared' over an area, typically a Customer's neighborhood. On U-Verse VDSL, the 'Dedicated' Package is yours, and yours alone.

One last thing is that U-Verse is SUPPOSED to be retrofitting our area with AT&T Fiber, and that, (at Gigabit Package Level), will cost EXACTLY what we pay now for the 50Mb VDSL Package. ($60 per Month.) Also, our U-Verse Internet NEVER goes down, unlike our prior experience with Original COMCAST. (Pre-XFINITY days.)

So, I'm glad that my search led to the HIC, and that DISH Phone Tech, Ethan stated that this in fact would cure, (and has cured), our Hopper's dropping of the IP Address.

Again, just hoping that I've helped, or will help, someone else with the same problem.

TimeLord04


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

P Smith said:


> Search on the site by "Hopper Internet Connector" or "dish hic" gave hundred not related items. Are you trolling ?!


I gave you a specific site and what elements of your query you would find there. You having pictures isn't likely to help the TS with anything other than what to do with any spare time.


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

P Smith said:


> Just for teaching people include myself - what keywords used to find it ?
> I did copy from a name of the page (in quotas!) - got 200 items
> Added check to "Out of stock" - nothing close.


"Hopper Internet Connector" ... I noticed that it was "out of stock" in the link I provided, but you were looking for pictures, not purchase. 

I also have one. I have not connected it since my system works without it (Ethernet to the Hoppers, coax to the Joeys - bridging enabled).
I am not surprised that customer service and repair don't know the product. I can't find it on DISH's website. Longer term employees may remember them from "back in the day".


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## scooper (Apr 22, 2002)

Yes - my Hopper with Sling / Joeys / Super Joey work fine, Hopper to switch to switch to my router ( then on to Google Fiber router out to internet), Bridging turned on in Hopper. One Joey via coax, one via ethernet (via Ethernet over powerline and switch at the Joey end, and at least one switch to the other end).


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

*[TimeLord04's DISH Network Setup:]*

Original Install Date: February 24, 2021

New HD DISH Network Satellite DISH at back of attached garage. RG6 Cable, (Home Run), fished through attic into 'Reclaimed Space' above garage, into 'Office' - Reclaimed Space.

RG6 Cable run through wall into Attic 'Office' above garage, behind Upstairs Spare Bedroom.

Hopper 3 Installed in 'Office' next to U-Verse NVG-599 Gateway. New Home Run RG6 Cable now connected to 2-Way Splitter. 2nd Out of Splitter to RG6 Input of HIC. Output of HIC Terminated. 1st Output of Splitter to RG6 Input of Hopper 3.

Ethernet of HIC connected via Cat5 to 2nd Netgear GS-108 Gigabit Switch, daisy-chained to 1st GS-108 Gigabit Switch. Cat5 Cable connected from 2nd Switch to Linksys AC2200, Tri-Band MESH Node Router.

Cat5-e connected from AC2200 to NVG-599.

*[EDIT 2]*

Connected 2-Port RJ-11 Phone Jack Splitter to 'Out' of parents' Vonage Device. Connected one RJ-11 Cable to Port 2, connected Cable from Port 2 to House Wiring to back-feed telephone signal to all phones in home.

Connected one RJ-11 Cable from Port 1 of RJ-11 Splitter, connected Cable to Hopper 3 Phone Jack. Now, "Caller ID" from Vonage Device runs to Hopper 3 and displays across ALL TVs in Home.

*[NOTE:]* Bridged Mode OFF, due to conflict between DISH Hopper 3 and U-Verse NVG-599 Gateway. (This Gateway is electronically identical to the 5268AC Gateway, which is KNOWN by DISH to have issues with their equipment.)

======================== Office Complete ========================

Family Room: Samsung 65" TV, connected by Cat5 to GS-108 Gigabit Switch. Sony Blu-Ray Player connected by Cat5 to GS-108. ROKU 4K Ultra, connected by Cat5 to GS-108.
Samsung 65" connected to Wireless Joey - "Family Room" by HDMI-1, ROKU 4K Ultra connected to Samsung by HDMI-4. Sony Blu-Ray Player connected to Samsung by HDMI-2.
Wireless Joey - "Family Room" connected to GS-108 by Cat5. Linksys MESH AC1300 Dual-Band Node connected to GS-108 by Cat5.

Master Bedroom: LG 40" TV, connected by Cat5 to Linksys MESH AC1300 Node. Wireless Joey - "Master Bedroom", connected by Cat5 to Linksys MESH AC1300 Node.
LG 40" TV connected to Wireless Joey by HDMI-3.

Bedroom 1: Samsung 32" TV, connected by Cat5 to Netgear GS-105 Gigabit Switch. Panasonic Blu-Ray Player connected by Cat5 to GS-105.
Samsung 32" TV, connected to Wireless Joey - "Bedroom 1" at HDMI-1. Panasonic Blu-Ray Player connected to Samsung at HDMI-2.
Wireless Joey - "Bedroom 1" connected to GS-105 by Cat5. Linksys MESH AC1300 Dual-Band Node connected to GS-105 by Cat5.

Bedroom 2: Amazon 32" FireTV, connected to Linksys MESH AC1300 Dual-Band Node by Cat5. Amazon TV connected to Wireless Joey - "Bedroom 2" by HDMI-1.
Wireless Joey - "Bedroom 2" connected to Linksys MESH AC1300 Dual-Band Node by Cat5.

MESH Network: "Starfleet.UFP" - DHCP from AC2200 Router Node, "10.x.y.z" Address spectrum. All other WiFi connectivity from above hardware nullified/deactivated.

*[NOTE:]* With the MESH Network, the DISH WAPs CAN be ELIMINATED.

*[NOTE 2:]* Instead of MESH Network solution, one MAY use 'Ethernet over Powerline' Adapters and go direct Ethernet that way from the Joey Locations to the Router, Modem/Gateway serving the Network. Beware, IF your Power Company is NOT stable on the grid, and subject to Spikes, Surges or other 'malfunctions of power distribution' that this mode of operation MAY NOT suit your needs; and MAY damage equipment connected this way. The WAPs CAN be ELIMINATED with 'Ethernet over Powerline' as well.

======================== Home Install Complete ========================

Once the MESH Network went in, I turned off ALL extraneous WiFi 'Noise'. Only our Cell Phones and Computers maintain WiFi Connectivity to the MESH Network.
The WiFi on the NVG-599 goes 'unused', now. Unfortunately, that CANNOT be deactivated.

I think I managed a pretty clean Install of DISH, Joey, and TV equipment. *[EDIT]* Just would have been nice to have the HIC on Feb 24, instead of late August.

TimeLord04


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

3-8-2022 at 1:01 PM - PST

I wanted to post an updated Schematic Drawing of our home's setup.


TimeLord04


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

Don't treat me as a nitpicker, if you could use templates of two-story-home/IRD/DVR/Routers/Switches/APs/dishes from Internet, your diagram would be perfect example to publish it at SolidSignal's site as art design


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

P Smith said:


> Don't treat me as a nitpicker, if you could use templates of two-story-home/IRD/DVR/Routers/Switches/APs/dishes from Internet, your diagram would be perfect example to publish it at SolidSignal's site as art design


3-9-2022 at 6:42 AM - PST

I don't have software to do any of that. So, this is the best I can do.


TimeLord04


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

P Smith said:


> Don't treat me as a nitpicker, if you could use templates of two-story-home/IRD/DVR/Routers/Switches/APs/dishes from Internet, your diagram would be perfect example to publish it at SolidSignal's site as art design


It isn't precisely what you asked for but have you considered the sum total hours of time what you've asked for over time would have taken mostly just to satisfy your curiosity?


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## DISH TECH 4 (Nov 1, 2021)

TimeLord04 said:


> *[TimeLord04's DISH Network Setup:]*
> 
> Original Install Date: February 24, 2021
> 
> ...


Holy smokes batman this looks like an essay. I feel like in the time it took you to write all these posts, you could've done 4 wall drops with coax and changed all your wireless joeys to wired lmao


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

DISH TECH 4 said:


> Holy smokes batman this looks like an essay. I feel like in the time it took you to write all these posts, you could've done 4 wall drops with coax and changed all your wireless joeys to wired lmao


3-9-2022 at 1:19 PM - PST

@DISH TECH 4 

Well, if nothing else, I do like to be thorough and detailed in my descriptions. Also, now, with the hand written diagram,
that may be a better way to show what has been done to get our home in order with our DISH Network and Linksys MESH
Network setup for the H3 and four Wireless Joeys.

I hope that all this will help you in answering whether or not the new Wireless Joey 4 boxes can be hooked up, (in place of
the existing Wireless Joeys), and connect to the MESH Nodes and function in the same way. (Along with adding the new
Hopper Plus to the H3 unit.) NOTE: NO WAP units are being used, as they just created too much pixelations at the TVs
hooked up to the Wireless Joeys.


TimeLord04


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

8-27-2022 at 1:23 PM - PDT

I've just revised my Diagram. In my room, (Bedroom 1), I removed my old Panasonic HD Blu-Ray Player and replaced it with a new Multi-Region Panasonic 4K HDR, HDR10+ unit. I moved my old player downstairs to the Family Room as my parents' Sony Blu-Ray failed.

Also, we recently had an issue with our old U-Verse NVG-599 Arris Gateway, now, that has been replaced with a new Motorola/Arris BGW-210-700 Gateway.

Everything else remains the same. Since my new Blu-Ray Player is Multi-Region, I have chosen to NOT connect the unit to the Network via CAT-5, NOR by WiFi. I've heard horror stories about such units LOSING their Multi-Region capabilities should they connect/'call home' and update their Firmware. So, NO networking for my new Blu-Ray Player.

Yesterday, my parents indicated that by Christmas, we should have a new 65" 4K QLED TV for the Family Room. This means that we will need to upgrade to the 'Hopper Plus' and one, (1), new Wireless 4K Joey. When this occurs, the existing HD Wireless Joey will go upstairs to 'Bedroom 3', where we will need to implement and install one, (1), new Linksys AC-1300 MESH Node. At that time, 'Bedroom 3' will be redesignated to 'Bedroom 2' and old Bedroom 2 will become 'Bedroom 3'. Also, at that time, I'll need to revise the Diagram one final time.

*[EDIT:]*

We'll also need to upgrade the HDMI Cables on the ROKU Ultra 4K, (the factory cable was defective, and we've put in an older AudioQuest HD Cinnamon Cable), and the newly proposed 65" 4K QLED TV which will connect to the newly proposed Wireless 4K Joey. IF I can convince my parents of the value of the newer AudioQuest 4K/8K/10K Cinnamon Cables, we'll be installing those for the ROKU Ultra 4K, and the new 65" 4K TV, and the new 4K Joey. These cables ARE NOT cheap. We'll need one 10', and one 5' 4K/8K/10K Cinnamon Cables.

*[EDIT 2:]*

Also, when I installed my Region Free Panasonic 4K HDR HDR10+ Player, I installed a 5' AudioQuest 4K/8K/10K Cinnamon Cable from the Player to the HD 32" Samsung TV. Though the TV ISN'T 4K, the Cable makes a HUGE improvement in Standard/HD Playback. I'm currently watching Region 2 DVDs, a boxed set of Blake's 7, and the picture is SHARPER than I remember when it was broadcast over Comcast, (NOT XFINITY), on PBS, then channel KTEH 54 out of the San Jose area. I'm quite pleased with the upgrade in Region Free and the new upgrade in the HDMI Cable. With 3 Year Extended Warranty, the Player was $436 and some change with Tax. The Cable was $139 and change + Tax.


TimeLord04


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

I just bought a pair of 10' 48Gbps cables on Amazon that cost me a whopping $14.98 (for the pair).

The Roku Ultra won't tax a 18Gbps cable since it is limited to 4K60.


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

harsh said:


> I just bought a pair of 10' 48Gbps cables on Amazon that cost me a whopping $14.98 (for the pair).
> 
> The Roku Ultra won't tax a 18Gbps cable since it is limited to 4K60.


8-28-2022 at 2:34 PM - PDT

I don't dispute that cheaper cables 'CAN' work, ALMOST as good; however, we've had the BEST results with the Cinnamon Cables over the years. The HD Set of Cinnamon Cables were $99 + Tax when we bought them last. Now, the 48Gbps 4K/8K/10K Cinnamon Cables are MUCH higher in price. BUT, they're rated QUITE HIGH in reliability, construction, and picture sharpness.

Therefore, I won't skimp on my cables. 

ymmv - To each his/her own.



TimeLord04


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

TimeLord04 said:


> rated QUITE HIGH in reliability, construction, and picture sharpness.


If it would be reported by independent test agency, not the mfg ...


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

TimeLord04 said:


> 8-28-2022 at 2:34 PM - PDT


Are the time stamps all that important?


> I don't dispute that cheaper cables 'CAN' work, ALMOST as good; however, we've had the BEST results with the Cinnamon Cables over the years. The HD Set of Cinnamon Cables were $99 + Tax when we bought them last. Now, the 48Gbps 4K/8K/10K Cinnamon Cables are MUCH higher in price. BUT, they're rated QUITE HIGH in reliability, construction, and picture sharpness.


The cables I bought transfer the bits just fine and they have pretty good construction with a good woven jacket and long strain reliefs (something the Cinnamon's don't feature).

I make it a practice not to spend more on cables than the device that I'm connecting with them.

EDIT: The MSRP for the 10' Cinnamon 48 cable is $229.


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

harsh said:


> EDIT: The MSRP for the 10' Cinnamon 48 cable is $229.


Overpriced 10 times


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## TimeLord04 (Sep 5, 2021)

8-29-2022 at 3:29 PM - PDT

As I stated, ymmv, and to each his/her own.

I've always sworn by High End Cables starting back when I was in Car Stereo. I ALWAYS used Monster Cable 12 Gauge speaker wire when and where needed. Then, things moved up to Oxygen Free Cables, again 12 Gauge for Car Audio. Then I moved up and into High End Video.

I've never shied away from the best cables with Gold Plated Connectors, Silver Soldered Connections, etc. When I discovered the Cinnamon Cables, (starting back with the HD versions many years ago), they were $99 for 2 meters. I was more than pleased with the picture quality; AND, they reduced line issues from STBs that, on lesser cables - even from the Service Providers, yielded HDMI Error Messages at the top of the TV screens. Even our newer ROKU Ultra 4K's stock and supplied HDMI Cable kept yielding such Errors. I moved a spare HD Cinnamon over to the ROKU Ultra 4K and ALL such messages CEASED.

(U-Verse Errors = "HDMI Error 1001", ROKU Ultra 4K = General Connectivity HDMI Error Messages at boot of device, randomly and intermittently using stock, supplied cable from ROKU.)

I'm more than happy to spend the money allotted to keep such HIGH quality cables for my High Tech Merchandise. (No matter how high or low the cost of that Merchandise.)

Again, ymmv.

*[EDIT:]*

@harsh

YES, I stated that the 5' 48Gbps 4K/8K/10K is $139, + Tax. AND, I'm quite aware that the 10' is $229, + Tax. (Money well spent for the Highest Quality Cables.) (I get my Cinnamon Cables at Magnolia High Fi out of Best Buy Stores.)


TimeLord04


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