# Mitsu DLP -- lamp warm-up time?



## JohnMI

I recently purchased one of the 2009 Mitsu DLPs: the WD-65737. Very happy with the picture quality after some self-calibrating.

Having switched from a 2002 Hitachi RP that was almost instantly on, my only "complaint" so far is the time it takes for the lamp to reach full brightness. Basically, when you turn the Mitsu on, the power lamp flashes for a few seconds as it spins up the color wheel (I assume). Then, you get the Mitsu logo screen and, a second or so later, the input is displayed. However, for me, there is another 20-30 seconds as the screen goes from very dim to full brightness.

I was just curious if this was normal for DLPs or not. Since it is a brand new TV, I just want to make sure that is "proper" behavior. If it is, I can live with it -- not a big deal. But I just want to make sure it isn't the sign of a defective lamp from the factory or anything.

Do your DLPs (I noticed quite a few people here with the Mitsu DLPs from 2009 and 2010) behave the same way?

Thanks!

- John...


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## joshjr

A friend of mine has the 73737 I believe and does not have that issue. I am looking into the new 838 series coming out with the 16 speakers accross the front. Looks nice. Guess that is something I should look into before buying.


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## JohnMI

Ok -- I'll have to actually time it tonight and get some better numbers. I just did some more Google searches and found a few people that indicated that it takes a bit (usually they say 15-20 seconds) to reach full brightness. So, maybe it is normal. Although, the 65737 and the 73737 are the exact same units when it comes to that, so we'll have to see.

I did find mention of the EnergyStar mode causes slow lamp warm-up time. If that is it, then I can try switching that off and see if it makes a difference. Then I would know, at least, if that is the case. If it is that, I'll likely put it back to ES mode -- since I don't mind the little time if it actually has a benefit...

- John...


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## erosroadie

jgoggan said:


> I recently purchased one of the 2009 Mitsu DLPs: the WD-65737. Very happy with the picture quality after some self-calibrating.
> 
> Having switched from a 2002 Hitachi RP that was almost instantly on, my only "complaint" so far is the time it takes for the lamp to reach full brightness. Basically, when you turn the Mitsu on, the power lamp flashes for a few seconds as it spins up the color wheel (I assume). Then, you get the Mitsu logo screen and, a second or so later, the input is displayed. However, for me, there is another 20-30 seconds as the screen goes from very dim to full brightness.
> 
> I was just curious if this was normal for DLPs or not. Since it is a brand new TV, I just want to make sure that is "proper" behavior. If it is, I can live with it -- not a big deal. But I just want to make sure it isn't the sign of a defective lamp from the factory or anything.
> 
> Do your DLPs (I noticed quite a few people here with the Mitsu DLPs from 2009 and 2010) behave the same way?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> - John...


I have a Samsung 50" DLP from 2006. Your "start-up" experience with brightness increasing is very similar to what I have always experienced with my Sammy. Mine takes ~30 seconds to achieve full brightness. Worth the wait, though, as the picture/value proposition with DLP is great!

FWIW, my SONY 32" LCD TV takes a bit longer for the picture to appear, though it is at full brightness when it does&#8230; 
:biggrin:


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## JohnMI

Ok -- great -- good to know. I just wanted to make sure nothing was "funny." 

- John...


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## hdtvfan0001

I have a rear projection HD LCD and another HDTV unit that is a DLP - both "light up" in under 8 seconds to full brightness...so 30 seconds sure seems like a long time...


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## spartanstew

jgoggan said:


> However, for me, there is another 20-30 seconds as the screen goes from very dim to full brightness.
> 
> I was just curious if this was normal for DLPs or not.


It's not necessarily normal for DLP's, but it's normal for the 737, 837, and C9 models because of their energy star rating.

It's a bigger deal when you have multiple things connected and you use a Harmony, because by the time the screen "arrives", the code to swith inputs has long since been sent by the Harmony. There's a few workarounds though,.



joshjr said:


> A friend of mine has the 73737 I believe and does not have that issue.


I'm sure his performs the same way.

You get used to it and I have a separate direct input button on each Harmony activity, because they screen will come up on whatever input you last used, so I just press a button and switch inputs on the fly.

It's a bit odd at first hearing a program for about 10 - 20 seconds (via the A/V receiver) before there's any picture.


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## sdicomp

My 738 is at full brightness in about 10 sec. PQ is awesome! I have done VERY little 'tweaking'. Most of the settings were 'out of the box' except for turning 120hz on, and toning down the contrast a little!


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## JohnMI

sdicomp said:


> My 738 is at full brightness in about 10 sec. PQ is awesome! I have done VERY little 'tweaking'. Most of the settings were 'out of the box' except for turning 120hz on, and toning down the contrast a little!


Interesting. So, did you leave the Picture Mode on "Brilliant" like it ships? Or change it to at least Bright and hopefully Natural?

And did you turn off the filters? (Deep Field Imager, Sharp Edge, whatever)

Or does the 738 (that's the 2010 model, right) not have those options (or not have them on by default).

Also, what do you mean by "turning 120hz on"? Does the 738 have an option to turn it on and off? The only option on the 737 that I know of related to 120hz is the "smooth 120hz" option which, from what I gather, isn't a matter of turning 120hz on or off, but is instead related to a "smooth" filter -- which most seem to recommend turning off (just like the rest of the filters).

In my experience, filters are for people that don't calibrate their sets properly. So that they look decent uncalibrated. 

- John...


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## JohnMI

Indeed -- the more I research this, the more it seems to be normal behavior.

Thanks!

- John...


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## sdicomp

jgoggan said:


> Interesting. So, did you leave the Picture Mode on "Brilliant" like it ships? Or change it to at least Bright and hopefully Natural?
> 
> I left it on Brilliant, which is factory default.
> 
> And did you turn off the filters? (Deep Field Imager, Sharp Edge, whatever)
> 
> Or does the 738 (that's the 2010 model, right) not have those options (or not have them on by default).
> 
> No, I did not turn off these filters, and yes, the 738(2010 model) has them.
> 
> Also, what do you mean by "turning 120hz on"? Does the 738 have an option to turn it on and off? The only option on the 737 that I know of related to 120hz is the "smooth 120hz" option which, from what I gather, isn't a matter of turning 120hz on or off, but is instead related to a "smooth" filter -- which most seem to recommend turning off (just like the rest of the filters).
> 
> Yes, it is the smooth filter, and I did turn it on.
> 
> In my experience, filters are for people that don't calibrate their sets properly. So that they look decent uncalibrated.


I was just remarking that the 738 looks good out of the box, I haven't played with it much, as I have had it less than a week.


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## JohnMI

sdicomp said:


> I was just remarking that the 738 looks good out of the box, I haven't played with it much, as I have had it less than a week.


Wow. I'm a bit surprised actually. Most people tend to agree that while Brilliant is the "factory default", these sets are sent way over-bright for the showroom floor. Natural is highly recommend by most -- or maybe just Bright depending on your circumstances. But I can't see leaving the Brilliant mode on -- plus all of those filters -- and still getting decent PQ.

I mean -- to each his own, of course -- set it how YOU like it. I'm just saying that the vast majority of people here with these sets state that they clearly get better PQ with it turned down from Brilliant (to either Bright or Natural) and with all of those filters turned off.

But, that's after calibrating it some -- maybe do that first and then see what you get. Even if it just means taking someone else's basic calibration settings to start with if you don't want to take the time to do it yourself! If you check TweakTV for their default/suggested settings for this set, you'll find some decent starting values (and they recommend during down the Brilliant and turning off all of the filters).

But, again, whatever YOU like is fine. If it looks good and you love it, so be it! 

- John...


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## sdicomp

I was responding to the start up time post. As I said, I have had the 738 less than a week. It replaced a Sammy HLT5676. I know about TweakTV, and used it to fine-tune the Sammy. I was merely remarking that the 738 looked good out of the box, not arguing the point that tweaking the settings would make it look better. I fully intend to play with the picture settings when I have time.


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