# DIY'ers - good tutorials for installing RG6 connectors



## LameLefty (Sep 29, 2006)

I used to have a few links but now I can't find the ones I liked, and it's been so long since I made my own connectors that I don't trust myself to be up on the latest and greatest techniques. However, this place is full of knowledgeable and helpful folks. 

So in the spirit of the First Look documents here, I think perhaps a DBSTalk-created RG6 tutorial thread might be beneficial to people who like to tinker but don't know where to start. The reasons I started the thread here rather than in the installation section are first, connection quality seems to be more critical for good MRV performance due to DECA signal loss than it is for satellite signals alone without DECA; and second, this area gets way more traffic and will likely to continue to do so while MRV becomes more popular among "regular" Directv customers.

Who wants to go first?


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## -Draino- (May 19, 2008)

http://www.hometech.com/learn/coaxterm.html


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## -Draino- (May 19, 2008)

And I love these connectors, http://www.satpro.tv/f-connectorperfectvisiondirectvapprove25bag.aspx


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

-Draino- said:


> http://www.hometech.com/learn/coaxterm.html


I don't like this:


> Pull off the stripped materiel. *Fold back the remaining braid.*.


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## -Draino- (May 19, 2008)

veryoldschool said:


> I don't like this:


Ya I don't do that part.

Not very much out there for vids on how to do it but I've watched Comcast installers and DTV installers do it enough times that I can make my own and I haven't had one fail yet.


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## tcusta00 (Dec 31, 2007)

veryoldschool said:


> I don't like this:


What's the recommended procedure? I've always just pulled the braid back and pushed the connector over it.


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

tcusta00 said:


> What's the recommended procedure? I've always just pulled the braid back and pushed the connector over it.


When I did Barryb's setup, the stripper cut the braid completely and so it didn't need folding back.


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## BudShark (Aug 11, 2003)

I think a list of Best Practices are in order as well:

Compression connectors ONLY. Crimp and screw are both highly discouraged.
Controlled bends are important. Tight bends are discouraged - invest in an elbow connector if needed
No exposed inner shielding when compression connector is secured


Anything else...?


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

BudShark said:


> i*nvest in an elbow connector if needed*
> 
> Anything else...?


:nono:


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## hdtvfan0001 (Jul 28, 2004)

veryoldschool said:


> :nono:


*+1* (haven't done that in a long while )


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## BudShark (Aug 11, 2003)

veryoldschool said:


> :nono:


so what do you recommend if I'm faced with a tight bend?


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

BudShark said:


> so what do you recommend if I'm faced with a tight bend?


Lay things out so you can lessen the bend radius.


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## BudShark (Aug 11, 2003)

veryoldschool said:


> Lay things out so you can lessen the bend radius.


:lol: I love the engineer answers to practical questions (I do it to).

In other words: Don't have tight bend radii and don't use elbow connectors as they are no better.


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

BudShark said:


> :lol: I love the engineer answers to practical questions (I do it to).
> 
> In other words: Don't have tight bend radii and don't use elbow connectors as they are no better.


yep. Right angle connectors end up adding a poor match into the setup. It's just very hard to turn RF at right angles and not have more come back at you than you want.


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

Since we're moving toward cables, you don't want to distort them. Tight bends and pinching them with staples, both do this.
I think I've read a 4" radius is the minimum, but mine are closer to 6", since "less is better". 
If you feel the cable resisting the bend, don't bend it that tight. [my rule of thumb]


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## RobertE (Jun 10, 2006)

veryoldschool said:


> I don't like this:
> 
> 
> 
> > Pull off the stripped materiel. Fold back the remaining braid..


PPC recommends folding back the outer layer a braid, so that that the inner collar of the connector slides in between the braid and the inner layer of foil.

I've found at times, if all the braid gets cut off, that inner collar can push the braid back inside the jacket. The cable ends up with a bulge in it where all the braid is smushed together.


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## LameLefty (Sep 29, 2006)

Good stuff, guys. Keep it coming! 

Anyone have a recommendation for a good cable stripper and compression tool?


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## Bigg (Feb 27, 2010)

I got a little stripper from Monoprice that strips it clean for the compression connector. I got all the tools needed to do good coax work for maybe $30. Not counting the ones for Ethernet.  It takes a little practice with the stripper, but once you get the hand of it, the connectors just pop right on.


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## wallfishman (Dec 31, 2008)

http://www.elexp.com/tol_kcat.htm

theses have always been my favorite. they do rg6 and 59, no adjustments, and cheap. these are also what comcast used to issue us.


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## nydiver (Nov 9, 2010)

Sorry, late to the party.

A few items have been mentioned that are key:
1. Never exceed the minimum bend radius of the cable your working with. For RG6, the radius is 6 times the OD of the cable (radius = 6 x ~.25" or 1.5", diameter = 2 x radius or about 3" MINIMUM). Exceeding the bend radius adds a micro-bend for reflections of the signal. These reflections begin to negate forward signal. i.e. that sucks. It also decreases the distance from the Center Conductor to the Shield, which will affect the impedance of the cable, again that's going to cause reflections and that's bad.

2. The part inside a connector is called the post. The post is expected to go between the foil that is glued to the white center part (Dielectric) and the braid surrounding it. The braid is what actually gives the cable mechanical strength, if we capture it on both ends it acts like one of those finger puzzles, it makes it near impossible to pull the cable apart. BUT, if you use a cheap tool and cut off all the braid flush thinking now its easier because the braid doesn't need to be folded you have a new issue: first off its now harder to install the connector as you plow the braid in front of the post as you install it, wadding all that up under the jacket and in front of the post as it enters the cable, secondly you will capture or compress on nothing but jacket, a tube of plastic, how strong will that be when it gets hot in the sun? Lastly you have greatly compromised the ground, which is fine if what you wanted was intermittent battery to the LNB and a good spot for RF noise ingress (kidding, that's all bad stuff). Seriously, the braid being cut properly and folded back is one of the most important steps in making ANY connector.

3. Use compression style connectors. Crimp is from days of old and has reason for being obsoleted. They don't seal!! Some crimps had silicon "goo" in them to try and seal them, but that just oozes out later, it helps for 1 to 2 years tops, then moisture just eats the braid alive creating aluminum oxide and gases to force continued corrosion of the connection and the mating equipment. All metal connectors expand at a different rate than the plastic cable they're attached to, hence crimps often "rip" themselves off cables when left in temp extremes. Crimpers do not stay calibrated for long, your forcing or swedging a metal barrel into a new shape, that's very abusive to the tool, to the point it wears quickly and prematurely.

4. Use a reputable connector. Big name connectors used by big name companies are the way to go, they've been extensively tested by the maker, the user, and by the SCTE (Society of Cable Telecommunications Engineers). Big names would be PCT, T&B or Snap and Seal, PPC, Gilbert, Digicon. Lesser seen products that might work: Stirling, Holland, Times Fiber or Amphenol, Signal Vision. All it really takes is a look at who is approved in Cable or Sat. I believe there is only 1 connector that is approved for use by all the cable companies and Sat companies

5. Use the manufacturers tooling. For a prep tool (stripper) buck up and get a nice unit, look for a Cable Prep tool (cpt-5960), hands down the best prep tool on the market. Skip anything that looks like a simple clothes pin or has adjustment screws, those are for straight up amateurs who really don't care and plan to use crimp from wal-mart too. But ALWAYS use the tool from the connector maker to close your compression connector. Adjustable tools are dime a dozen and plague the retail outlets, skip them, they do more harm than good. The manufacturers tool will last longer, do a better and more accurate job, and has a higher resale if you decide to get rid of it.

6. NEVER USE SILICON CAULK or GREASE!!! Silicon as it cures releases a very corrosive gas that begins a nice etch of your new connector, it also continues to off gas inside the connector its trying to seal corroding from the inside out. Grease, where to begin.... Grease packed in the face of a connector goes where when you screw it onto the port? Inside the mating equipment where it was never intended to go, it also changes the impedance of the cable, and depending on the grease could cause a low level short. Instead use the manufacturer recommended port seals to ensure a long lasting connection safe from moisture migration.

I know it all sounds like a rant, but there is so much bad going on in the industry that it needs to be noted what not to do before we really discuss what to do.


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## matt (Jan 12, 2010)

Having a bunch of Gilbert brand connectors here at the house, I would recommend against them.


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## Soulweeper (Jan 10, 2005)

RobertE said:


> I've found at times, if all the braid gets cut off, that inner collar can push the braid back inside the jacket. The cable ends up with a bulge in it where all the braid is smushed together.


I'm not an installer, but I do my own stuff, and I found the same problem. Folding the braid back over the jacket also helps the connector slide on better, but probably just because it's not pushing the braid down in the jacket, and bunching it up.


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