# VIP 211 Installation



## Spart

Hey all, had a question installing a VIP 211 receiver with a 1000.4 Western Arc dish. The manual says that a switch is required for that dish, but I'm almost positive I saw somewhere that the 1000.4 has a built in switch. I found the correct settings for my location, mounted the dish and ran the cable from one output to the receiver, but I can't get a signal on 110, 119, or 129. I tried running switch check , and the point dish and can't get anything. Am i wrong in thinking I don't need a switch? If not, it doesn't matter which output I use to run to the receiver correct? I've installed my own systems before and never had a real problem.


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## gtal98

You are correct, you do not need a switch with a WA.4 dish. What does the screen show when you run the checkswitch? Is the dish already pointed, or are you wanting to use the receiver to point the dish? Which output did you connect to? It needs to be 1,2, or 3. #4 is actually an input for a wing dish.


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## Spart

I set everything except the azimuth. I was trying to use the receiver to point the dish, with the tv on the pointing screen and opened the window next to the pole. When I ran check switch I get no signal on either satellite.


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## gtal98

Unfortunately some receivers won't show signal strength without running a successful checkswitch (can't remember if the 211 is one or not). And to run a successful checkswitch, it needs to see the satellites. When you go to the checkswitch screen, does it show 3 or 4 "x"s or does it at least show 119? If it at least shows 119, go back to the point dish screen and put it on 119 transponder 17. Then move the dish is very small increments, with 10 second pauses in between. The receivers are slow in recognizing the signal, it's not an instantaneous thing.


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## Spart

Nope..all satellites show X's.


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## Spart

With the VIP 211, and the 1000.4 Western Arc Dish, should the dish point screen show up as Dish 500 for the correct pointing option? Out of the ones listed there, thats the only one that gives me any pointing co-ordinates, and they match what dishpointer.com says.


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## gtal98

Then you're going to have trouble using that receiver to point the dish. Do you have any other receivers you could use? (I ask because you say you've done this before). If not you may want to invest in a cheap squawk box or something to at least let you know when you get some signal, then run the checkswitch and peak in from there.


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## Spart

I have a 311 SD receiver I just had turned off to switch to this one. So you think using it to find 110, and 119 would get me started enough to go from there?


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## gtal98

Yeah, hook it up but don't run a checkswitch. Just put it on 119 and try and locate the signal and peak it in as well as you can. Then switch back to the 211 and run the checkswitch. Then you should be able to really peak it in well.


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## Spart

Well actually, the 211 has been set up with another dish. I added this receiver to my existing account, and before the 1000.4 dish came in, I unplugged an existing receiver, activated the 211 and downloaded the updates. Now that the dish arrived, I mounted it and trying to set it up in the new room. Locating the signal with the new dish is where the problem begins. Since that receiver has received a successful check switch already once, shouldn't it be able to be used to find it again?


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## James Long

The old Check Switch will only work if it was done with the same kind of dish that you are using now. Chances are the setup is different.

I'd start by clearing the matrix. Disconnect the coax at the back of the receiver, let the check switch find nothing. Save results (even though it says you're losing slots). Then reconnect the cable. Then see what you can find aiming the dish.

Use the aiming numbers in the manual. The aiming numbers built in to the receiver do not work for the 1000 dishes. For Western Arc set the point dish screen to 119 TP 21.

Once you have some signal from some satellite on your screen (it doesn't have to be 119) stop. Do the check switch. All three slots should show something in them. If you're lucky it will be 129-119-110 with signals. If the orbitals are off by a slot you'll need to turn the dish to get the right signal on the right slot. (IE: If you see X 129 119 turn the dish to the left from behind. If you still have point switch set to 119 TP 21 you'll see "wrong satellite 110" when it is aimed correctly. Do another check switch and hopefully 129-119-110 will appear.)

When it comes to fine tuning use the little cam at the bottom of the dish bracket for small left to right movements and the rod for small up and down movements. Small movements are best. That's why the fine tuning adjustments are there.


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## Spart

Ok..I'll give that a try..Thanks!!


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## Spart

It's pretty cloudy here today, but so far I've managed to get 
conn 1 x
conn 2 119 ok
conn3 x

I get good signal strength on 119 T21, so I'm wondering if maybe it's because it's so cloudy?


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## James Long

Double check to make sure you're using the skew setting from the manual ... then adjust to elevation and azimuth to peak out 119 to the highest possible (if it isn't there already). Then do the check switch again.


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## Spart

Checked settings in manual and all are right. Managed to get 74 on 119 T21 so ran check switch again with that position, but no change on the other two signals.


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## VDP07

Spart said:


> It's pretty cloudy here today, but so far I've managed to get
> conn 1 x
> conn 2 119 ok
> conn3 x
> 
> I get good signal strength on 119 T21, so I'm wondering if maybe it's because it's so cloudy?


You're a few degrees off I believe. After a successful "check switch", the "Install Summary" should be, from left to right:

119 110 129
ok ok ok

or on some receivers
119 110 129
all all all


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## Spart

The manual is a few degrees off compared to dishpointer.com. Which one would be better to go by?


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## scooper

You need to check the manual for what part is the actual measurement being taken from.


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## Spart

Ha to give up and get to work. The cloud coverage was so heavy that I couldn't even keep a signal on 119. While pointing the dish it would go from 74to nothing, and everything in between.


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## James Long

The only time I've lost signal to cloud coverage was during times I should have been hiding in the southwest corner of my basement. Are you having severe electrical storms in the direction your dish is aimed?


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## Spart

It's very heavy and dark, almost storming but not to that point yet. Reading through some old posts got me thinking, after I get good reception on 119 and ran check switch, is it possible to see the signals of 110 and 129 at that point, or would I have to manually point each one before they will show up?


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## James Long

The dish can only be aimed in one direction. If aimed correctly and no obstructions (trees, buildings, etc) you should get all three. There is no aiming of individual satellites on a 1000.4 (although one sometimes has to aim less at one satellite to get another one stronger).


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## Spart

Ok then, I'll have another go at it tomorrow. With a good signal on 119 and no obstructions I was never able to get a signal for the other two yet. I guess I'll have to tweek the skew and elevations then.


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## scooper

You should never have to "tweak" the skew - azimuth and elevation, yes, but never the skew.

This is presuming your mast is straight up like it is supposed to be.


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## gtal98

Since you're getting 119 in the middle that means your dish is not set right, because 119 is coming in on the LNB (eye) that is supposed to be for 110. What is your skew and elevation set to. When you're checking on dishpointer.com you need to pick the 1000.2 setup, the only 1000.4 listed is for the EA, it doesn't show the WA.4 yet.

Your elevation should be 47 and skew 125 for Houston. Also make sure your mast is level on two sides 90* apart, otherwise the settings aren't much help.


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## Spart

If I remember correctly the manual shows 45 as the elevation and 125 for the skew. Those are the settings I currently have. I plan on re-checking the level on two 90 degree sides again just to be sure. I have it mounted up high on a post so it possibly could have gotten off working from a ladder.


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## VDP07

Based on your original post, your issue is not elevation or skew related. When I stated that you were a few degrees off, I was refering to the azimuth (east/west)


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## Mike500

From my experience of having install several hundred Dish500's and Dish1000's, I have found that you have to start with plumbing the pole, With the pole plumbed, and the skew and elevation correctly set, swing the dish horozontally to get a signal at 119 has always made for any easy install that got all three satellites.

Whatever you do......plumb the pole first.


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## tpoe

Hi - Newbie question here...

I have same set up as Spart... Earlier gtal98 wrote: "Which output did you connect to? It needs to be 1,2, or 3. #4 is actually an input for a wing dish."

If I'm setting up my satellite and running one cable, which output should I use? 119 or 129?


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## scooper

Doesn't matter once the dish is aimed. Until then -


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## Spart

Well I started over this morning, and my pole had gotten out of plum a bit, so I corrected that and started over. Now I'm showing check dish as :

Port 1 Sat 129 OK WA.4
Port 2 Sat 119 OK WA.4
Port 3 Conn X WA.4


The level was off a little, after correcting that I managed to get an 82 on 
Sat 119, Trans 21, but still noting on 110. The skew wouldn't be the issue with 110 would it?


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## James Long

The skew should be ok. You're getting two orbitals with that skew so it should work for the third.

Just for sanity ... cover the 110 LNB head with a piece of tin foil (remembering that it is a reflected signal - so the 110 LNB would be the furthest west). If you lose the 119 signal then your dish is just off ~9 degrees.


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## P Smith

That order of sats looks awkward ...


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## Spart

James Long said:


> The skew should be ok. You're getting two orbitals with that skew so it should work for the third.
> 
> Just for sanity ... cover the 110 LNB head with a piece of tin foil (remembering that it is a reflected signal - so the 110 LNB would be the furthest west). If you lose the 119 signal then your dish is just off ~9 degrees.


When you say 9 degrees, are you talking about elevation or azimuth?


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## Spart

I covered 110 and ran check disk again and still have 129 and 119 ok.


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## P Smith

Spart said:


> When you say 9 degrees, are you talking about elevation or azimuth?


Nope. 129-119 = 10, 119-110=9 degree between sats.


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## P Smith

Spart said:


> Well I started over this morning, and my pole had gotten out of plum a bit, so I corrected that and started over. Now I'm showing check dish as :
> 
> Port 1 Sat 129 OK WA.4
> Port 2 Sat 119 OK WA.4
> Port 3 Conn X WA.4
> 
> The level was off a little, after correcting that I managed to get an 82 on
> Sat 119, Trans 21, but still noting on 110. The skew wouldn't be the issue with 110 would it?


Could someone with 1k4 WA dish post his switch matrix ?


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## Spart

I keep having to stop because of working nights, but its progress anyway. With 110 still not getting a signal it appears that I'm getting most everything except a few local channels in HD. SD are there though. It just bugs me until I get this right. I really appreciate all the help too.


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## Spart

James Long said:


> The skew should be ok. You're getting two orbitals with that skew so it should work for the third.
> 
> Just for sanity ... cover the 110 LNB head with a piece of tin foil (remembering that it is a reflected signal - so the 110 LNB would be the furthest west). If you lose the 119 signal then your dish is just off ~9 degrees.


My manual shows the 110 LNB in the middle, and that's the one I covered with foil. You mentioned that it would be the farthest west. Should I have covered the farthest one west instead? By covering the one in the middle that the manual shows as 110, I saw no change after disk check. Any suggestions on how to pick up the 110 signal, with the other two coming in ok?


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## James Long

Spart said:


> My manual shows the 110 LNB in the middle, and that's the one I covered with foil. You mentioned that it would be the farthest west. Should I have covered the farthest one west instead?


Yes. The actual LNB heads on the assembly are (west to east) 110-119-129 ... receiving the reflected signals from space (where the satellites are lined up east to west 110-119-129).

Evidently the outputs are not in the same order? In any case the order of the three heads is 110-119-129.



> By covering the one in the middle that the manual shows as 110, I saw no change after disk check. Any suggestions on how to pick up the 110 signal, with the other two coming in ok?


Based on that new information (the center LNB not delivering a signal) I'd say you're aimed between 119 and 129, with 119 coming in on the head that should be receiving 110. Which means you're about 4 1/2 degrees off (which will be less than 4 1/2 degrees of azimuth and a couple of degrees of elevation).

Set point dish back on 119 TP 21 ... move the dish slightly counterclockwise looking down on the mast and slightly higher until you see "Wrong Sat 110" as the satellite you are receiving. Jumping over to 129 TP 21 you should still see 129. When you get to that point check switch again and you should have all three.


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## P Smith

Cover two sided LNBFs - 110 and 129, keep middle one - 119 and find the 119W sat; after removing foil you will see three sats.


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## gtal98

Did you put the level on your mast on two sides, or just one? Because with a skew of 125, and a plum (2-ways) pipe you shouldn't be able to pick up 119 through the wrong LNB. The skew changes all of their elevations enough that it's very hard to get a sat through the wrong LNB.

Make sure it's plum both ways and your dish is set to the proper elevation and skew. Then just swing it left and right on the pole. Do not adjust the elevation at all until you find 119.


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## Spart

Is it possible my inputs really are in that order? I checked my manual again to be sure and it does show that order in and out. I covered both on the ends an never got a signal at all. Then I cleared the matrix since commented that mine looked weird and still no signal on the middle.


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## P Smith

Continue finding 119W on middle LNBF; I would use $20 SatFinder gadget for that.


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## Spart

gtal98 said:


> Did you put the level on your mast on two sides, or just one? Because with a skew of 125, and a plum (2-ways) pipe you shouldn't be able to pick up 119 through the wrong LNB. The skew changes all of their elevations enough that it's very hard to get a sat through the wrong LNB.
> 
> Make sure it's plum both ways and your dish is set to the proper elevation and skew. Then just swing it left and right on the pole. Do not adjust the elevation at all until you find 119.


I checked that yesterday and it was off, so after that is when I was able to pick up 129. Double checked again just to make sure I hadn't accidentally bumped it but its still good.


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## P Smith

Find 119W by middle LNBF first ...


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## Mike500

*Three position satellite dishes are always aimed from the center satellite position.*

If you are not connected to port 2, you are using the wrong port. You need to use port 2 which is a direct connection to 119. Set the installation screen to the 119 satellite and transponder 19 or 21.

The best way to assure an easy installation is to make sure that the pole is perfectly plumb, the skew and the elevation correctly set, and your only setting you need to make is the azmuth.

I've done a lot of Eastern Arc dishes as a professional installer for dealers and a few Western Arc dishes. The Western Arc dishes are a lot easier than the Eastern Arc ones to get peaked.

*Absolutely important is the perfectly plumb pole.*

Once you get the strongest signal at 119, you should lock the azmuth and tweak the elevation for the strongest signal.

Once done, the receiver software will automatically detect the two other satellite positions. Be patient.

Then, and only then, should you do the check switch test.

Once you get all three satellites detected, you're all done.

A lot of my fellow installers use the expensive $400 Birdog an the $700 Super Buddy.

For me, I use a 7 inch portable flat screen TV with AV inputs and the receiver. I just take it to a place near the dish. I've also hear of others using a cheap portable "baby monitor" set with the camera trained on the TV screen for roof installs.

Since I do mostly, if not all, ground pole and only single story roof installs, I use the receiver and monitor and technique with great success.

While the expensive meters work, nothing beats the actual assured picture on the screen.


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## James Long

The ports are only at default if the receiver has it's switch matrix cleared and the LNB has been powered down to remove any previous switching commands sent to that port. (With a single receiver setup the powering down is easy. Just disconnect the coax at receiver, run check switch to clear the matrix and reconnect.)

Once check switch is run the receiver will try to control the switch to get the signal requested ... that breaks the defaults.


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## Spart

Well since I knew I was plum I reconnected to port two and found 119 easily enough. Ran dish check and finally had all three sats. Now matrix looks like this with all channels:
Port 1. Sat 119 OK
Port 2. Sat 110 OK
Port 3. Sat 129 OK

That was my first multi lnb and I must say it definatly more involved than a non hd setup. Thanks for all the help guys....really appreciate it!!


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## harsh

James Long said:


> Double check to make sure you're using the skew setting from the manual ... then adjust to elevation and azimuth to peak out 119 to the highest possible (if it isn't there already).


Better yet, use the skew and elevation settings for the 1000.2 or 1000+ from dishpointer.com.

Also, make sure you plug into port 1 on the WA LNB assembly to dial in 119W. This is different from how it is done on the EA LNB assembly where port 2 is used to dial in 72.7W.


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## Mike500

harsh said:


> Better yet, use the skew and elevation settings for the 1000.2 or 1000+ from dishpointer.com.
> 
> Also, make sure you plug into port 1 on the WA LNB assembly to dial in 119W. This is different from how it is done on the EA LNB assembly where port 2 is used to dial in 72.7W.


Like I said, it's always the center satellite position that needs to be peaked first. That would be always Port 2 on the lnb; 72.7W for the EA and 119W for the WA dish. If you peak on any of the "wing" positions, any error would be magnified by the "sine" of the angular error formed by a triangle of the actual signal ppint to the position to which the lnb is pointed. An error position of either wing satellite would be at least half the sine, with one wing satellite below the peak spot and the other one below.

It's basic Trigonometry and that's why it's best to peak to the center of the three satellite positions.


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## VDP07

Mike500 said:


> *Three position satellite dishes are always aimed from the center satellite position.*
> 
> If you are not connected to port 2, you are using the wrong port. You need to use port 2 which is a direct connection to 119. Set the installation screen to the 119 satellite and transponder 19 or 21.
> 
> The best way to assure an easy installation is to make sure that the pole is perfectly plumb, the skew and the elevation correctly set, and your only setting you need to make is the azmuth.
> 
> I've done a lot of Eastern Arc dishes as a professional installer for dealers and a few Western Arc dishes. The Western Arc dishes are a lot easier than the Eastern Arc ones to get peaked.
> 
> *Absolutely important is the perfectly plumb pole.*
> 
> Once you get the strongest signal at 119, you should lock the azmuth and tweak the elevation for the strongest signal.
> 
> Once done, the receiver software will automatically detect the two other satellite positions. Be patient.
> 
> Then, and only then, should you do the check switch test.
> 
> Once you get all three satellites detected, you're all done.
> 
> A lot of my fellow installers use the expensive *$400 Birdog an the $700 Super Buddy.*
> For me, I use a 7 inch portable flat screen TV with AV inputs and the receiver. I just take it to a place near the dish. I've also hear of others using a cheap portable "baby monitor" set with the camera trained on the TV screen for roof installs.
> 
> Since I do mostly, if not all, ground pole and only single story roof installs, I use the receiver and monitor and technique with great success.
> 
> While the expensive meters work, nothing beats the actual assured picture on the screen.


I've used several meters including the $400 Birdog. I find the $200 AcutracIII Plus to be the most effective when installing 1000.2 and 1000.4 setups. Peaks all 3 sats simultaneously very nicely.


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## James Long

Mike500 said:


> Like I said, it's always the center satellite position that needs to be peaked first. That would be always Port 2 on the lnb; 72.7W for the EA and 119W for the WA dish.


Correction:


BattleZone said:


> This is the port and LNB layout for both the 1000.2 and 1000.4 WA LNBs.


Port 1 is by default 119 on the WA.4

Also (as noted in my previous post in this thread) if you have a switch matrix loaded the receiver will override the defaults and switch to whatever input it thinks the desired satellite is on. If your previous check switch found 119 on the wrong "eye" the receiver will continue to use that wrong eye to attempt to find 119. One must clear the matrix to use the defaults.


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## Spart

So just for future reference, to clear things up...when installing this setup initially the thing to do would be to cover the lnb's on both ends, plug in to port one to get 119 satellite only peaked first, then uncover those to fine tune and get the remaining satelllites?


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## P Smith

Yes, but don't forget to add first step: disconnect coax from 211 and run switch test.


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## jastro

I hope this isn’t stealing the tread, it’s not my intention.
Did you get it right Spart? I was reading your tread to see if I can solve a similar problem with 1000.2
Only that I was never able to get 110, and plying with it 119 and 129 switch places a couple of times. I check everything and it’s impossible to get it OK. Now my elevation should be 51 I’m setting it with the center of the screw, is that OK? It doesn’t have a real mark like the skew.


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## P Smith

in the position you should use some gadget to see the signal, cheapest is simple $20 satMeter; use same technics - close 110/129 LNBFs and start from middle - make 119W works first


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## jastro

Thanks, reading this tread I found out that blocking outer LNBF's will be I guess the only way to get 119 centered n' I got it!! THANKS but the signal don't go over 50 is that OK, the reception is clear n stable, pr should I look for higher?
I do have a 500 with an old set I'm upgrading to HD, I did set up all my previous dishes but I have to admit this one was a challenge. 
I got the VIP222K for 2 TV what kind of switch I need to use a coaxial instead the RCA cables? And how is it done that way.
Thanks again I'll appreciate all the info I got here


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## P Smith

depend of tpn#, but in general - the 50 level is OK


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## harsh

jastro said:


> I'm setting it with the center of the screw, is that OK? It doesn't have a real mark like the skew.


As seems to be a common problem, you're not using the right target. You should to use the edge of the material that shows through the elevation scale slot to set the elevation. IIRC, the difference is about 8 degrees.

Self-installing is overrated.


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## jastro

Now that you mention it HARSH, it is right there in the mark but I found it the hard way going up n’ down a thousand times. 
I guess the problem was that having one bad signal lock I was looking for the other around there and it was actually about a ¼“ turn to the east, I have some knowledge but no experience, I finally got everything working and learn something in the way, covering the outer “eyes” did it. 
Signal is about 70 on 119 TP21, I didn’t check the others it was enough for me, does it need to be higher?

Now my next step is to get the 2nd TV connected and here is the question: for what I know on VIP222K the 1st set gets the HD’s and our 1st set is last in the line of coaxial wiring in the house.
From the dish on the side wall of the 2nd floor it goes to a couple of sets upstairs sets and then down to the family room, where we want the HD’s. 
If I put box upstairs we have HD there but hardly ever watch TV.
There is a way that I can put the box down stairs and have one set upstairs working without sending another cable up? Thanks again


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## James Long

You can backfeed the RF signal to an NTSC television - but you have to use special adapters (diplexers).

Please tell us that you are not running your satellite dish to every outlet in the house. The feed between the dish and the receiver should be one cable with no splitters. If you're running the receiver on a coax that has outlets in more than one location you will have problems.


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## scooper

James Long said:


> You can backfeed the RF signal to an NTSC television - but you have to use special adapters (diplexers).
> 
> Please tell us that you are not running your satellite dish to every outlet in the house. The feed between the dish and the receiver should be one cable with no splitters. If you're running the receiver on a coax that has outlets in more than one location you will have problems.


+1 - You can use barrel connectors to join cables together, or diplexers IN PAIRS, but the feed from the dish to the satellite receiver should be 1 cable for each receiver.

Now - for viewing - you will only get the HD out of the HDMI ports or the component video ports (and for audio, you would use the analog red/white RCA jacks or the TOSLINK port). You can distribute the TV2 over RF to as many TVs as you want , but you may need a fancier distribution system / amp if you go beyond 2 or 3 sets (also depends on distance). Personally - I'd put the receiver where the HDTV is, and use an inhouse distribution network to all the other NTSC TVs - and I wouldn't necessarily use the same cables.


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## jastro

I have the dish “relocated after lots of work” on the second floor very close to 3 separate inbound coaxial cables.

#1 goes directly to the main TV in the family room downstairs, direct no splits or return cable; we would like HD there.

#2 goes to the 2nd floor to 2 bedrooms, at the end, passing by a kids’ TV room, where we may like to have the second set, the bedrooms are wired but we don’t watch TV there, (note: in the kids TV room, through the same box passes the coaxial that goes downstairs but directly with no connection between them); 

#3 goes to an outside patio gazebo that maybe one option for the 2nd set in especially now that summer is coming; also this one goes down directly without splits or connection with the others.

All wires are inside the walls.
I hope is clear and that we have HD on the Family room and not in the small set of the kids room.

Thanks again for all the info


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## James Long

With that setup you could put a diplexer (not a splitter) at the 722 between the separator that is there and the cable coming in to the room. The "satellite" labeled side of the diplexer would go to the separator, the "uhf/vhf" or "tv" labeled side of the diplexer would go to the home distribution output of the 722. The combined side of the diplexer would go to the cable coming into the room.

Then on the other end of that coax to the living room you would place another diplexer. The "satellite" side going to the dish, the combined side connected to the cable from the living room, the "uhf/vhf/tv" side going to the other rooms. You can put a splitter on the "uhf/vhf/tv" connection outside and feed both other cables.

Then TVs connected to the other cables can watch the 722's 2nd output (or the first output if so configured) on an RF channel. I have mine set for channel 54 because it is out of the way of OTA broadcast channels.


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## jastro

James Long said:


> With that setup you could put a diplexer (not a splitter) at the 722 between the separator that is there and the cable coming in to the room. The "satellite" labeled side of the diplexer would go to the separator, the "uhf/vhf" or "tv" labeled side of the diplexer would go to the home distribution output of the 722. The combined side of the diplexer would go to the cable coming into the room.
> 
> Then on the other end of that coax to the living room you would place another diplexer. The "satellite" side going to the dish, the combined side connected to the cable from the living room, the "uhf/vhf/tv" side going to the other rooms. You can put a splitter on the "uhf/vhf/tv" connection outside and feed both other cables.
> 
> Then TVs connected to the other cables can watch the 722's 2nd output (or the first output if so configured) on an RF channel. I have mine set for channel 54 because it is out of the way of OTA broadcast channels.


I did as you said, works great thanks James. You said that the rest of sets can watch whatever is on TV1 or TV2 so far I get only TV2 on all the sets, still learning the settings I guess the trick is there but that is not a problem because everyone will prefer to watch on TV1 that is on HD and bigger screen. 
Well again thanks I'd still be struggling with it if wasn't for your help.
Thanks


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## James Long

I believe sharing TV 1 is under MENU-6-2 ... the RF setup is under MENU-6-1-5. In dual mode MENU-6-1-5 is probably what you're looking for. Set both sides for "Air" and different channel numbers.


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## jastro

I got finally everything working, thanks James I found the option to view either TV1 or TV2 on the other sets, works great. 

Now the learning process of the 222 box begins, in my area over the air we have many additional channels that don’t show in the list of “available locals”, I saw in the menu an option “scan locals” but in my box is unavailable, is anything I need to do to make it operable and if so, we’ll be able to view them? 

If not, is it possible to add the signal of the over the air antenna to my set up without the lost of signal or quality?


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## P Smith

jastro said:


> I got finally everything working, thanks James I found the option to view either TV1 or TV2 on the other sets, works great.
> 
> Now the learning process of the 222 box begins, in my area over the air we have many additional channels that don't show in the list of "available locals", I saw in the menu an option "scan locals" but *in my box is unavailable*, is anything I need to do to make it operable and if so, we'll be able to view them?
> 
> If not, is it possible to add the signal of the over the air antenna to my set up without the lost of signal or quality?


is it 222*k* model ?


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## jastro

Yes it is the VIP222K.

Is it possible to add the over the air antenna signal to my set up without the OTA Module and not loosing signal or quality?

If that is the only way to do it where can I get one OTA Module? Same for the good quality diplexers n’ spliters?


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## scooper

The VIP 222*K* DOES NOT have builtin OTA capability. However, you can buy said module (same as goes into the VIP722K / VIP922) for a reasonable cost. I would prefer to use dedicated cables for OTA anytenna / Dish, especially if you are already backfeeding the TV2 output.


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## P Smith

jastro said:


> Yes it is the VIP222K.
> 
> Is it possible to add the over the air antenna signal to my set up without the OTA Module and not loosing signal or quality?
> 
> If that is the only way to do it where can I get one OTA Module? Same for the good quality diplexers n' spliters?


No, you must buy MT-2 module for OTA signals ($30-40) from ... try call dish or ebay, solidsignal, sadoun,etc.


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## jastro

I have to run another cable down from the antenna to the receiver, for what I see that can’t be avoided,


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## jastro

Hi there, I don't know if opening another thread will better than going back to the old one, I'll try this way first.
As you can see everything was working fine till yesterday thanks to this forum when I lost the signal, I call DN and everything was OK on their side, then I decide to remove the diplexer I have to feed the other TV and it start to work OK, today in the morning, mi son call me saying the signal went again. 
Could be the switch in the LNB, the separator or the Receiver, I’m in San Diego no storms or clouds and nobody touch the wiring or dish.
DN offers a $95.00 visit but even if I want to pay it I live at 7 AM and return by 8 PM, here I’m trying to get going before I make that arrangement.
Any suggestions, thanks.


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## Ray [email protected] Network

jastro,

Many factors can cause signal loss. Have you checked the cables on the back of the receiver to make sure all cables are hand tight - a loose connection will cause intermittent signal loss. Have you checked your dish to make sure nothing is obstructing the LOS? Please check these things for me and let me know what it is still causing you problems. Thanks.


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## jastro

Ray [email protected] Network said:


> jastro,
> 
> Many factors can cause signal loss. Have you checked the cables on the back of the receiver to make sure all cables are hand tight - a loose connection will cause intermittent signal loss. Have you checked your dish to make sure nothing is obstructing the LOS? Please check these things for me and let me know what it is still causing you problems. Thanks.


Thanks for responding, well, nothing should be wrong with the cables because we try the same setting, including the diplexers, to get over the air signal and it works fine. Only the LNB switch, separator or receiver need to be checked, we got them in April so I assume they are covered by some type of guaranty. Is there anything I can do to identify which one may be at fault? And how do I get replaced if they are under guaranty, should I go to where I got them or through DN directly?


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## jastro

Update: I was using only one coaxial coming from the LNB, the 1st from the left facing it, I change it to the 3rd. and it works. Could be that the switch located in the LNB casing is gone?


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## P Smith

jastro said:


> Update: I was using only one coaxial coming from the LNB, the 1st from the left facing it, I change it to the 3rd. and it works. Could be that the switch located in the LNB casing is gone?


It's possible - I did fix some DPP44/DP34 - those switches has protection diodes on each In/Out port, plus many components inside to fail.


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## yzq32

I've learned a lot from reading this thread. I have a 1000.2 dish installed on a VIP211. I understand I can hook-up one cable from the right port (119) to the receiver. I don't need any other jumper as this doesn't have a "wing lnb." Previous dish did have the 129 as a wing. 

My question now is about the skew and elevation. I read that I should use the setting from the dish manual and what is indicated on the Point Dish Screen (that shows settings for 500). My problem is that i don't have the manual to check those settings. 

Any recommendation where I can get the manual or find those settings?


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## scooper

www.dishpointer.com


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## P Smith

yzq32 said:


> I've learned a lot from reading this thread. I have a 1000.2 dish installed on a VIP211. I understand I can hook-up one cable from the right port (119) to the receiver. I don't need any other jumper as this doesn't have a "wing lnb." Previous dish did have the 129 as a wing.
> 
> My question now is about the skew and elevation. I read that I should use the setting from the dish manual and *what is indicated on the Point Dish Screen (that shows settings for 500).* My problem is that i don't have the manual to check those settings.
> 
> Any recommendation where I can get the manual or find those settings?


Use the screen.


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## harsh

P Smith said:


> Use the screen.


Exceedingly poor advice.


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## P Smith

Did you try it ?


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## harsh

P Smith said:


> Did you try it ?


Try what?

Part of what makes your advice poor is that you didn't define what "the screen" is.

The poster had noted in the portion of the message that you bolded that the AZ-EL data presented by the receiver DOES NOT apply to the dish that they are pointing so recommending that they use the data anyway is bad advice.


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## P Smith

That AZ/EL/TLT for D500 applicable for triple dish too.


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## harsh

P Smith said:


> That AZ/EL/TLT for D500 applicable for triple dish too.


The numbers are quite different.

For my ZIP code, the numbers for the Dish 500 are:

Az=149 El=37 Sk=81

And for the Dish 1000(.2|+) the numbers from the manual are:

Az=156 El=37 Sk=86

I'd be pointing in the general direction of 114.5W 5 degrees off skew and that's hardly "applicable" (appropriate).


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## P Smith

That's biggest exaggeration what I read last years: those numbers are never been final point of aiming. It using for initial aiming. Duh !


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## harsh

P Smith said:


> That's biggest exaggeration what I read last years: those numbers are never been final point of aiming. It using for initial aiming. Duh !


The gross exaggeration is saying that the Dish 500 and Dish 1000 numbers are the same. They are not and that's why DISH gives each its own table of numbers.

Why start with numbers that aren't within a tenth when they're available?

The enjoyment comes from watching TV, not molesting the dish.


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## P Smith

We will cut the line. 

Who need it, he will understand both sides and will pick by himself what he will find helpful.


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## yzq32

I used the info from dishpointer.com and hit it no problem. I had already tried the info off of the screen an only got partial stations...no HD, only standard on all stations. 

I knew the coordinates off of the screen where not what I needed. I bought the dish from a homeowner in my neighborhood. Using the elevaton and skew from the screen where about 5-10 degrees different than what was already on the dish. Using dishpointer got it back to what was originally set. Makes sense that dish being used in the same area should have the same settings. 

The only problem I have is not getting HD on local channels. I think it's due to my account settings...planning on calling dishnetwork to troubleshoot. When I do checkswitch, I get green-OK on all three dishes.


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