# Hopper/Joey remote control questions



## rld37

Have been reading some conflicting info. Just want to clear up some of my confusion.
New remotes for Hopper/Joey are uhf right? Remotes get paired with a certain receiver and will not work other receivers right? Can you pair more than one remote to a particular receiver? We llike more than one remote in the living room. Will Dish sell you extra remotes? Thanks


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## James Long

rld37 said:


> Have been reading some conflicting info. Just want to clear up some of my confusion.
> New remotes for Hopper/Joey are uhf right? Remotes get paired with a certain receiver and will not work other receivers right? Can you pair more than one remote to a particular receiver? We llike more than one remote in the living room. Will Dish sell you extra remotes? Thanks


The remotes are UHF. They are paired with one Hopper or Joey. The Hopper/Joey can have more than one remote paired. DISH will sell you additional remotes.


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## Ray [email protected] Network

You can log into your online account and order additional 40.0 remotes. If you further questions, please let me know. Thanks.



James Long said:


> The remotes are UHF. They are paired with one Hopper or Joey. The Hopper/Joey can have more than one remote paired. DISH will sell you additional remotes.


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## TxDave

I've ordered a second Dish remote for one of my Hoppers thats in a large family room. Like the original post we like two remotes in that room. I just wanted to confirm how to pair the second remote. Is it Sat button, Sys info on front of Hopper, then Sat button again ? The installer told me but that was over a week ago. I should have written it down then.
Thanks


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## mdavej

For the record older 32.0 remotes work fine too and are pretty cheap on eBay. To pair just press menu twice on an existing remote or Sys info on the front panel, then hold the remote close to the antenna and press Sat on the remote you want to pair.


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## TxDave

mdaveJ, Thanks for the advice and assist.


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## [email protected] Network

TxDave said:


> I've ordered a second Dish remote for one of my Hoppers thats in a large family room. Like the original post we like two remotes in that room. I just wanted to confirm how to pair the second remote. Is it Sat button, Sys info on front of Hopper, then Sat button again ? The installer told me but that was over a week ago. I should have written it down then.
> Thanks





mdavej said:


> For the record older 32.0 remotes work fine too and are pretty cheap on eBay. To pair just press menu twice on an existing remote or Sys info on the front panel, then hold the remote close to the antenna and press Sat on the remote you want to pair.


The "pair" button the 40.0 remotes is now the same as the input button, which is just below the SAT button


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## TxDave

MattG, 
Do I need to be at the sys. info screen and then just press the pair button ?


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## [email protected] Network

TxDave said:


> MattG,
> Do I need to be at the sys. info screen and then just press the pair button ?


Yep


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## tcatdbs

In theory, you could put a Hopper and 2 Joeys in one central closet, feed 2 TV's with each (= 6 TVs), and have 2 remotes paired to each of the 3 devices, right (6 remotes)? You do have to watch the same thing on the two linked TVs, but if they are in spare rooms, it's just an option. Of course all rooms need to be within "X" of the closet (50'?)


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## James Long

tcatdbs said:


> In theory, you could put a Hopper and 2 Joeys in one central closet, feed 2 TV's with each (= 6 TVs), and have 2 remotes paired to each of the 3 devices, right (6 remotes)? You do have to watch the same thing on the two linked TVs, but if they are in spare rooms, it's just an option. Of course all rooms need to be within "X" of the closet (50'?)


In theory, yes. It is better to put the Hoppers/Joeys where needed to make HD wiring better but the thought of a centrally located Joey feeding two or more SD TVs via a RF monitor is on my mind.


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## 356B

James Long said:


> In theory, yes. It is better to put the Hoppers/Joeys where needed to make HD wiring better but the thought of a centrally located Joey feeding two or more SD TVs via a RF monitor is on my mind.


Apologies, what is a RF monitor?


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## James Long

356B said:


> Apologies, what is a RF monitor?


My way of misspelling "RF modulator".


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## 356B

James Long said:


> My way of misspelling "RF modulator".


Good, I thought I was missing out on something.:lol:


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## jdskycaster

Will the older 21.0 UHF or 6.3 UHF work as well?
Thanks,
JD


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## n0qcu

jdskycaster said:


> Will the older 21.0 UHF or 6.3 UHF work as well?
> Thanks,
> JD


Only if you switch them to IR mode. Also need to go into remote management and turn on IR,


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## jdskycaster

Thanks.


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## stlrfan007

James Long said:


> In theory, yes. It is better to put the Hoppers/Joeys where needed to make HD wiring better but the thought of a centrally located Joey feeding two or more SD TVs via a RF monitor is on my mind.


I'm splitting 1 Joey this way now but I'm wondering if I can use 2 UHF remotes - one in each room?

Also, I was wondering if I could put 2 Joey's in the closet and use the same UHF to control 2 different Joey's? I know I could do this with the old 722/622 setup I had but that was with IR.


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## James Long

stlrfan007 said:


> I'm splitting 1 Joey this way now but I'm wondering if I can use 2 UHF remotes - one in each room?
> 
> Also, I was wondering if I could put 2 Joey's in the closet and use the same UHF to control 2 different Joey's? I know I could do this with the old 722/622 setup I had but that was with IR.


You can put two remotes on the same Hopper/Joey but a remote cannot control more than one Hopper/Joey.


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## ewingr

n0qcu said:


> Only if you switch them to IR mode. Also need to go into remote management and turn on IR,


I have found the IR in Management, but have no idea how to change the remote to IR mode.

Any suggestions?


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## wtrjock

The dish 40 remote is only uhf. The ir option allows you to use a universal remote like a Harmony.


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## jdskycaster

Interesting dilemma that tech support says cannot be remedied at this time. I have 2 hoppers. Both are controlled via my central IR distribution system so I need the ability to set the IR code set used by each hopper.

Anyone know if this is possible and that tech support does not know about it? It would be great if I would not have to upgrade my distribution system to make it addressable rather than the Hoppers.

JD


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## ewingr

wtrjock said:


> The dish 40 remote is only uhf. The ir option allows you to use a universal remote like a Harmony.


Hmmm...OK. The post I referenced said to change mode AND set to IR in mgmt. So, I thought maybe I was missing part of what I needed.

So, my only problem now is that the IR is different from earlier remotes for Dish, and I don't have the codes. I have a learning remote and hoped to learn them. Any suggestions?


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## jdskycaster

I am pretty sure that you can change the IR code ID on the remote until you find the one that matches that of the Hopper. One of my 722 IR remotes has a macthing ID to the Hopper and worked for me. I also know that I could take my old 508 DVR remotes and change the IR ID to control the 722's. 

Dig up a manual for your version of IR remote. There are directions on how to change the Remotes IR ID. The old 508 remotes had something like 15 different ID's. The 722 remotes had 32 ID's. Cycle through each of the ID's until it controls the hopper then you can use that remote to teach your universal. If all else fails I have an extra 722 remote I would sell you for $10 and will make sure it is setup to control the Hopper before I ship it to you. Just send me a PM.
Good luck, 
JD


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## n0qcu

The IR address must be set to 1. It is the only address the Hopper will work with.


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## ewingr

jdskycaster said:


> I am pretty sure that you can change the IR code ID on the remote until you find the one that matches that of the Hopper. One of my 722 IR remotes has a macthing ID to the Hopper and worked for me. I also know that I could take my old 508 DVR remotes and change the IR ID to control the 722's.
> 
> Dig up a manual for your version of IR remote. There are directions on how to change the Remotes IR ID. The old 508 remotes had something like 15 different ID's. The 722 remotes had 32 ID's. Cycle through each of the ID's until it controls the hopper then you can use that remote to teach your universal. If all else fails I have an extra 722 remote I would sell you for $10 and will make sure it is setup to control the Hopper before I ship it to you. Just send me a PM.
> Good luck,
> JD


I have a 6.0 IR/UHF remote I had purchased for my 722. So, I just put it on TV, and used the instructions to scan through the codes, and none of them worked.



n0qcu said:


> The IR address must be set to 1. It is the only address the Hopper will work with.


So, having scanned through based on how it was set, I think I set it to address 1 (it was on 5), by following the instructions for the 722 remote for changing addresses. I scanned through the codes again, and still no joy.

Give that, jdskycaster, I am presuming that your remote wouldn't work for me.

I called Dish to see if they have an code numbers for me to input, and they didn't.

It is interesting that they have a method to set the Hopper to use IR, but no apparent way to get the codes for the programmable remote.

If any other suggestions come this way, I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the responses so far.

[EDIT]
Will no success above, I went into my OLD programming software for my HTM700, and to my surprise, the 722 was listed. So I downloaded that, and it is working. 

Thanks for your help, everyone.


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## jdskycaster

Not being able to set the IR address is an oversight and limitation of the Hopper for sure.


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## ewingr

I'm making progress. But I do have another question.

Can anyone tell me which buttons on a 722 remote would operate the color buttons for the Hopper (red, green, yellow, blue)?


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## mdavej

You'll have to learn from a remote with colored buttons like the 20.0. The pronto hex is posted at remote central if your remote will take it. JP1 is also an option.


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## ewingr

Thanks, mdavej. I'll see if I can find the Pronto code and get that working. I have done so in the past.

I don't have access to a 20.0. So hopefully I'll have success with the pronto codes.

I'll post back on my success 

[edit]
I"m not finding the Pronto code. I suspect I don't know what to look for. Can anyone provide me a thought on that? I do not see a Hopper; I don't even see anything newer than a 622.


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## mdavej

Sorry, you need to look for the 922 pronto codes. HERE they are.


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## ewingr

Ah...in the forum rather than file download area. Many thanks.

Sigh...however, I find them not to work. Reading through that thread, near the bottom they indicated that the Yellow and Blue are incorrect for a 922, and are for a 722. I don't find any of them to work for me for the Hopper.

I thought maybe it was because I pulled them into the Pronto Edit as a TS1000, so I tried again as a TSU2000. That did not work either.

I'll try joining that forum and see if I can come up with something.

In the meantime, maybe something else will come along here.

Thanks again.

[EDIT]@mdavej
BTW...I'm not sure what you mean by 'JP1 is also an option'. Mqybe I need to chase that.


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## mdavej

Part answered in another forum. 

JP1 means you can send those codes from a cheap cable, radio shack or one-for-all remote you may already own. If you think you have such a remote, post the model, and I can post the procedure. 

The colored button codes are identical across all Dish products. So find one good set for address 1, you've found them all. Some never worked on the 922 due to a defect in the 922 itself.


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## ewingr

Thanks for your help.

What I'm going to do first is try downloading various Pronto files from Remote Central for Dish. I'm not sure which ones should have the colored buttons. Only one I've heard is the 922, which you told me about, and the one found didn't work.

I do have 1 AVS Gear HA-IR01SV Infrared remote, which has the 4 colored buttons. This is a link to that remote on Newegg.

I'll post back how it goes.


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## mdavej

That model won't work. If you're willing to spend a couple of bucks, there are many solutions: 20.0 remotes are less than $10 shipped on eBay, and JP1 remotes are even less. You could buy and return an RCA RCRP05B for $15 just about anywhere and learn the codes. If you end up doing that, I can post the procedure. You could even borrow a cable, Dish, or harmony remote from someone.


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## ewingr

I really appreciate your feedback. Just curious...are you on AVS Forum by same user name? I am communicating on this topic there too, and same user name is communincating with me.

Question: Have you personally used the 20.0 remote on a Hopper, and the 4 colored buttons, with success? The reason I ask is that I am game to spend the money for one if it will work. However mdavej on the AVS forum gave me the hex codes for it, and they don't work. I have a in the AVS thread outlining what has happened.

I appreciate your help and efforts.


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## mdavej

Yep, both are me. And yes, I have personally used the 20.0 on the hopper and used it to teach another remote I use with the hopper. But that's also how I came up with those pronto codes. Just make sure you set it to address 1. I don't remember the exact steps, but they're in the 722k manual. Whatever you buy will probably be on address 1 anyway. I just sold my last 4 20.0/21.1 remotes on eBay for next to nothing. I'm sure plenty of others are doing the same. If you want instant gratification, you can pick up the RCA I posted anywhere. That's the main remote I use for my home theater, including the hopper. It can send the colored button codes and discrete on/off very easily. But I'll have to post the procedure.


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## ewingr

OK. 

I just went on eBay, and found a 20.0 remote, and purchased it. Only $8.50. 

So, I'll use that and learn the codes from it.

Appreciate your help very much.


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## milwaukee111

I have two hoppers installed in the same rack hooked up to two displays, via a matrix hdmi switch. Basically, I get to watch either hopper in either room. 

I would like to use my universal remote (urc mx 780 - IR) with the two hoppers. I have enabled IR on the hoppers, via set up menu. How ever, I can not get each of the remotes to output IR - i see no lights on the IR receiver (part of the IR blaster system), when I press the hopper related buttons. 

Q1. Is it possible to make the hopper work with IR codes? If so, how do I get those IR codes? Can I buy an earlier model remote, perhaps?

Q2. How do I use two different sets of IR codes on the two hoppers being in the same room?


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## P Smith

milwaukee111 said:


> I have two hoppers installed in the same rack hooked up to two displays, via a matrix hdmi switch. Basically, I get to watch either hopper in either room.
> 
> I would like to use my universal remote (urc mx 780 - IR) with the two hoppers. I have enabled IR on the hoppers, via set up menu. How ever, I can not get each of the remotes to output IR - i see no lights on the IR receiver (part of the IR blaster system), when I press the hopper related buttons.
> 
> Q1. Is it possible to make the hopper work with IR codes? If so, how do I get those IR codes? Can I buy an earlier model remote, perhaps?
> 
> Q2. How do I use two different sets of IR codes on the two hoppers being in the same room?


Isn't post#37 above has the answer ?


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## milwaukee111

post #37 does indeed give out idea for IR codes. P Smith, thank you for pointing it out. 
Based on the advise of mdavej, I bought these remotes today on ebay. 
Their title on Ebay was:
"Dish Network Remotes 20.0 IR & 21.0 IR UHF TV 1 & 2"
There was no description. I just bought them anyway. 

I don't understand what 1 and 2 are.. Are they two sets of IR codes? 

Since I have two hoppers in the same room, how do I get the 2nd hopper to work with an alternate IR code?

mdavej? Help please?

Thank you.


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## mdavej

Since most Dish receivers, including Hopper, have used exactly the same codes for many years, I'm very surprised your URC doesn't already have them. Just pick the most recent Dish code, and it should work fine.

Although earlier Dish DVRs supported up to 32 addresses, Hopper/Joey only supports address 1. So you can't use 2 different sets of IR codes on Hopper. If you use the remotes you bought for learning purposes (which I still maintain is unnecessary), you'll have to put the key in position 1. Position 2 won't work on Hopper. You'll need some sort of addressable IR distribution system if you have 2 Hoppers in the same room. I'm not happy Dish has limited Hopper to address 1, but it is what it is.

Unrelated to your problem, but good news for harmony users, logitech has just added discrete on and off to the hopper profile, making it complete.


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## jdskycaster

Again I will state that not making the Hopper work with more than 1 IR codeset is a major oversight. There will be many people that want to rack more than one of this in a central location and use it with IR distribution.


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## P Smith

Call CSR and force then to create bug report with the IR addy 1 issue.


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## James Long

P Smith said:


> Call CSR and force then to create bug report with the IR addy 1 issue.


Feature request, not a bug report.

A bug is when something is not working as designed. DISH designed the Hopper to work via UHF or (as an option) IR remote code 1. The Hopper works as designed.

If you would like the design changed submit a feature request.


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## P Smith

By design all dish boxes has 16 or more IDs. Don't post the funny ... IMOs "as designed". We don't have design specs, but have knowledge from previous models. All of them, what is will be enough to say it is a BUG.

Oh, I forgot to check on you: how many IDs has his father - 922 ?


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## James Long

When you get the actual design specs for the Hopper/Joey let us know.


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## milwaukee111

mdavej said:


> Since most Dish receivers, including Hopper, have used exactly the same codes for many years, I'm very surprised your URC doesn't already have them. Just pick the most recent Dish code, and it should work fine.
> 
> Although earlier Dish DVRs supported up to 32 addresses, Hopper/Joey only supports address 1. So you can't use 2 different sets of IR codes on Hopper. If you use the remotes you bought for learning purposes (which I still maintain is unnecessary), you'll have to put the key in position 1. Position 2 won't work on Hopper. You'll need some sort of addressable IR distribution system if you have 2 Hoppers in the same room. I'm not happy Dish has limited Hopper to address 1, but it is what it is.
> 
> Unrelated to your problem, but good news for harmony users, logitech has just added discrete on and off to the hopper profile, making it complete.


Thank you for your help.


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## n0qcu

Just to answer P Smiths question, the 922 only could use IR address 1


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## milwaukee111

as suggested by mdavej, if you are using mx 780. just go to the data base and select sat, dishnetwork, dvr921 ( I think. I am not sure which one of the model numbers worked). It works fine with hopper. It even has discrete on/off codes. Even if standby timer is disabled, the hopper goes into standby mode, once a day (when it checks for updates, I think).

i am using this solution for operating two hoppers in the same rack with IR.
I am using two IR emitters. All you need to do is enable IR (in the hopper menu) and use black tape to attach and mask out the little rectangle with power light, completely for both hoppers.
I will use an X10 lamp module, 12 volt power supply and a 12 volt relay with spdt 12 Volt coil relay. 
I simply switch the throw of the spdt relay to select which hopper would get the IR code. At any point, only one hopper will get the IR code.
In the URC 780, simply add a code to turn on or off the relay accordingly, into the macro of the source selection button. 


I set up the system with the x10/relay above. It works perfectly fine!


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## P Smith

James Long said:


> When you get the actual design specs for the Hopper/Joey let us know.


I'm obnoxious waiting same from you as the origin who mention these.


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## jdskycaster

milwaukee111 said:


> i am using this solution for operating two hoppers in the same rack with IR.
> I am using two IR emitters.
> I will use an X10 lamp module, 12 volt power supply and a 12 volt relay with spdt 12 Volt coil relay.
> I simply switch the throw of the spdt relay to select which hopper would get the IR code. At any point, only one hopper will get the IR code.
> In the URC 780, simply add a code to turn on or off the relay accordingly, into the macro of the source selection button. Simple, my dear watson. I am disappointed I didn't think about this sooner!


Sounds like something you would find in a game of mousetrap.:icon_dumm Too much of a cluge for my tastes and X10 modules are notoriously unreliable depending on your house and wiring. I hope you do not decide to work for Dish as a design engineer.

There are elegant solutions to this problem but they involve using an addressable IR routing receiver which adds significant cost when you already have a whole house IR distribution system in place.


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## rld37

I am now a customer of D* for 17 years and contemplating a change to Dish. I do not have a Dish account and guess that is why I can't find what the cost of additional 40.0 remotes is. Can someone tell me what Dish charges for these? Is cost what is causing a lot of users to go to other remotes especially IRs. Is there an advantage for IRs. I thought Uhf would serve me better. I have a couple of universal WR7 and several Universal R7. I think these would work for IR on the Hopper. Am I right?
What is the cost of the new 40.0 remotes?
Are they lighted? 
Do they have adequate and workable capabilities for controling TV, DVD and Aud receiver?
Would appreciate any help and advice.


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## P Smith

rld37 said:


> I am now a customer of D* for 17 years and contemplating a change to Dish. I do not have a Dish account and guess that is why I can't find what the cost of additional 40.0 remotes is. Can someone tell me what Dish charges for these? Is cost what is causing a lot of users to go to other remotes especially IRs. Is there an advantage for IRs. I thought Uhf would serve me better. I have a couple of universal WR7 and several Universal R7. I think these would work for IR on the Hopper. Am I right?
> What is the cost of the new 40.0 remotes?
> Are they lighted?
> Do they have adequate and workable capabilities for controling TV, DVD and Aud receiver?
> Would appreciate any help and advice.


Check the doc http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...z83LAw&usg=AFQjCNFf0K5xqol7fHk8Lod4MYLViU-wjQ


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## James Long

P Smith said:


> Oh, I forgot to check on you: how many IDs has his father - 922 ?





n0qcu said:


> Just to answer P Smiths question, the 922 only could use IR address 1


Interesting!


P Smith said:


> By design all dish boxes has 16 or more IDs.


All is a dangerous word.


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## P Smith

Same as "by design".


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## bnborg

It's a bug if the end users have a problem with its "design".

Where I last worked, we called them "problem reports" and did not differentiate bugs from requests for enhancement. The were filtered by the end user representatives and CSRs first. If the PRs were forwarded by them, we (in software development) worked on them.


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## rld37

P Smith said:


> Check the doc http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...z83LAw&usg=AFQjCNFf0K5xqol7fHk8Lod4MYLViU-wjQ


Thanks for the reference to the google document. Good information there I had not seen. The document describes the HIC but fails to use it in the drawing. It also says that MSRP on the 40.0 remote is $20 but that retailers may charge $14. (Q1)Can anyone tell me what Dish charges for these remotes. The document does not show remotes coming with Joey. (Q2)Is that true that you have to buy or provide your own remotes with the Joey? (Q3)I see in this thread that a lot of people are buying or using old IR for use with the system. (Q4)Is there an advantage to using IR? I had planned to use the Hopper in an ajoinng room by using a RF remote. (Q5)Does the 40.0
remote adequately work with other componets such as TV, DVD and Sound system? Any answers would be appreciated. Please bear with me as I have been out in desert with D* for 17 years.


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## mdavej

1. $20

2. No

3. No good reason to do that except for teaching a universal

4. No. The only reason to use IR is for compatibility with a universal

5. Compared to DirecTV remotes, they're more than adequate. They can control all your other devices completely because unlike DirecTV remotes, they can learn any missing functions. But if you are expecting macros or backlighting, they are inadequate.

Other benefits of these remotes compared to DirecTV include a locate function and simultaneous IR and RF. So you can use Dish remotes in one room and a universal IR remote in another at the same time.

If $20 is too much, the older model 32.0 works exactly the same (minus backup/restore capability) and is around $10 used on ebay.

In my case I have the one Hopper feeding several other TV wirelessly (no Joeys), so I bought several additional 32.0 remotes for different rooms. I've also enabled IR so I can use universal remotes. If you are getting a Joey for each TV, you don't need to buy any additional remotes.


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## tcatdbs

How do you do that? Your "other TVs" are all wireless?



mdavej said:


> In my case I have the one Hopper feeding several other TV wirelessly (no Joeys), so I bought several additional 32.0 remotes for different rooms. I've also enabled IR so I can use universal remotes. If you are getting a Joey for each TV, you don't need to buy any additional remotes.


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## mdavej

tcatdbs said:


> How do you do that? Your "other TVs" are all wireless?


MyWirelessTV

Realize this strictly mirrors a receiver. If you need independent viewing at each TV, you need Joeys.

Of course if you can run wires, that's best. But it wasn't practical in my case.


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## rld37

Thanks very much mdavej!


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## James Long

bnborg said:


> It's a bug if the end users have a problem with its "design".


That is a "training issue". 



> Where I last worked, we called them "problem reports" and did not differentiate bugs from requests for enhancement. The were filtered by the end user representatives and CSRs first. If the PRs were forwarded by them, we (in software development) worked on them.


Where I work we have problem reports and change requests. It is sometimes difficult to get end users to know the difference.

If something is not working the way it once did or the way we (who know how it should work) say that it should work that is a problem report. In a DISH related example, this would be someone saying "my receiver does not exit the screen saver when I press the power button or press select". The receiver is supposed to exit the screen saver - it is not doing what it is supposed to do.

If a user wants something to work differently that is a change request. In a DISH related example, this would be someone saying "my receiver does not exit the screen saver when I press the 7 button or any other number key on the remote". While it would not be wrong to have a "wake on any key press" feature (other than accidental waking) not waking on "7" isn't an example of something that is broken.

Problems are usually solved, requests may not be satisfied. That is the primary difference.

There is certainly a greater importance (in both my and DISH's worlds) on resolving problem reports - bugs - before going after feature requests. Would you rather have DISH work on a problem such as "receiver shuts down every 30 minutes without warning" or a request such as "add Hulu app"?

Allowing other codes for IR remote control is a good feature request. Since that feature was not on the 922 I would not promise that feature would ever be added (and even if it was on the 922, features can vary). Allowing TV2 on older receivers to be controlled via IR (for Slingbox use) was a feature that sat in the "please add" queue for years. That too was a good feature request.


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## milwaukee111

btw, answer is simple.. if you are using mx 780. just go to the data base and select sat, dishnetwork, dvr921. It works fine with hopper. thanks to mdavej for the suggestion.


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## P Smith

My take of the inability to use variable IR address for H2k is: its [922] predecessor's position on the market. Small quantity, different code-base from other ViP DVRs, lack of support due new development [813]. So, the IR addy was abandoned and didn't fixed now, for the Hopper 2000.
Sad thing is the new model pushed with persistence for new setups and mean the quantity threshold already triggering, we will see more requests to set different IR addresses for the H2k.


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## James Long

The design of the Hopper _system_ is to place receivers at each television location. A single code IR receiver does not break that system of one receiver per location and allows for third party remotes in each location.

Multiple code remotes were useful for UHF remotes where if not set to different remote channels one could easily change the neighbor's receiver channels. This explicit setting of remote channel is no longer needed with the remote pairing used on the Hopper system. And unless one lives in a glass house one should not have to worry about the neighbor's IR remote.

I am glad that DISH went with UHF remotes for the Joeys ... it allows the receivers to be placed out of sight instead of needing to consider where a IR signal would reach the tuner. As a "bonus feature" one can control a Joey from another room ... which brings "multi-room" use back into the realm of possibility (using DISH remotes).

The ability to tie multiple DISH remotes to the same Hopper or Joey supports multi-room use _using DISH remotes_. But the intended use of Hoppers and Joeys is in separate rooms connected to separate individual TV sets.

Once DISH ties the Hoppers together on a two Hopper system I believe this will be less of an issue. Completing that part of the designed use of the Hopper system has to be a greater priority than adding additional remote codes. I'd say that supporting OTA would be a greater priority than adding additional remote codes. That doesn't mean nothing else will be added before the Hoppers are tied together or OTA is introduced, nor that anything introduced before those key features is more important. DISH just doesn't follow our priority list.


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## 18 is # 1

James Long said:


> The remotes are UHF. They are paired with one Hopper or Joey. The Hopper/Joey can have more than one remote paired. DISH will sell you additional remotes.





James Long said:


> The ability to tie multiple DISH remotes to the same Hopper or Joey supports multi-room use _using DISH remotes_. But the intended use of Hoppers and Joeys is in separate rooms connected to separate individual TV sets.
> 
> Once DISH ties the Hoppers together on a two Hopper system I believe this will be less of an issue. Completing that part of the designed use of the Hopper system has to be a greater priority than adding additional remote codes. I'd say that supporting OTA would be a greater priority than adding additional remote codes. That doesn't mean nothing else will be added before the Hoppers are tied together or OTA is introduced, nor that anything introduced before those key features is more important. DISH just doesn't follow our priority list.


These two answers seem to contradict each other. Can I use two UHF remotes one one Hopper/Joey or not. I have several slaved rooms that I'd like to have an additional remote in for ease of use.


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## Ray [email protected] Network

You can link more than 1 remote to a Hopper/Joey. I have a 40.0 and 32.0 linked to my Hopper. Thanks.



18 is # 1 said:


> These two answers seem to contradict each other. Can I use two UHF remotes one one Hopper/Joey or not. I have several slaved rooms that I'd like to have an additional remote in for ease of use.


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## James Long

18 is # 1 said:


> These two answers seem to contradict each other. Can I use two UHF remotes one one Hopper/Joey or not. I have several slaved rooms that I'd like to have an additional remote in for ease of use.


Both answers say you can have more than one DISH remote per Hopper/Joey. The issue being discussed in the second answer relates to IR control, not UHF control. Placing multiple Hoppers/Joeys in the same room and expecting to use IR control is not supported.


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## 18 is # 1

James Long said:


> Both answers say you can have more than one DISH remote per Hopper/Joey. The issue being discussed in the second answer relates to IR control, not UHF control. Placing multiple Hoppers/Joeys in the same room and expecting to use IR control is not supported.


Actually I have a Hopper and Joey in the same room but have only enabled IR in the Hopper and have no issues between them.

On the remote question, I have five 40s to run one Hopper and two Joeys. I can't seem to pair the fouth and fifth without unpairing the primary. I also have a 21 and multiple 6.2s but don't know how to pair them. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks


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## James Long

You're trying to control one Hopper or Joey with all five remotes?


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## 18 is # 1

James Long said:


> You're trying to control one Hopper or Joey with all five remotes?


I would like two remotes on each Joey.


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## 18 is # 1

Sorry, I figured it out. You have to unpair the first and repair both at once.
Thanks for the help guys.


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## n-spring

Is there periodic communication between the remote controls and the Hopper/Joey that might drain the batteries? I have one Joey that tends to be unplugged for long periods of time. When I powered it back up yesterday, I had to replace the batteries in the paired remote. They were completely dead. The remotes that are paired with the other receivers which are plugged in all the time still have fully charged batteries.


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## RasputinAXP

The remote works via Zigbee (or at least it did last I understood) so it may be 'seeking' or 'pairing' and when it doesn't find, it seeks again. So possibly.


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## cclement

I learned something today. If you'd like to add a second remote to the Joey, when you are at the Sys Info screen, you must point the remote at the Joey and have a direct view. My new second remote would not pair and I didn't know why. My Joey and the TV it controls are in different rooms. So as a last resort, I tried pointing the new remote at the Joey to pair it,and it worked!


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## P Smith

Perhaps the pairing process verified the remote by IR channel too ?


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## [email protected] Network

Sometimes you do need to hold the remote pretty close to the Joey to get it to first pair. This is especially true with 32.0 remotes. Pairing is done via UHF


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## P Smith

I know it's done via RF, but the point is you don't need to be close, if IR is not involved somehow. Perhaps as secondary channel ...


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## mdavej

You do have to be close. But IR isn't involved in any way whatsoever.


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## P Smith

If you'll explain why RF link working fine at 100' but pairing only at 5'.


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## James Long

DISH wants to make sure the remote is paired to the right receiver.

The odds of two receivers with ~100ft of a remote both being on the System Info screen at the same time are not high ... but having the receiver look for a very strong signal from the remote makes it more likely the remote will pair with a close receiver than a far one.

Most pairing is done at the receiver anyways, with one using the receiver front panel to get to the System Info menu then pressing the SAT button (or Pair button) on the remote.


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## darthtigger

My dog got a hold of my remote. A piece came off, which i think is a key. no lights come on on the remote when i push a button. The receiver said the battery life is good on it. I was wondering if I have to have that piece in the remote for it to work. If so then I'm screwed. The dog did a number on the piece. Just wondering. p.s. There's probably no way of getting just that piece is there? Been looking online, no luck so far.


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## 3HaloODST

darthtigger;3181061 said:


> My dog got a hold of my remote. A piece came off, which i think is a key. no lights come on on the remote when i push a button. The receiver said the battery life is good on it. I was wondering if I have to have that piece in the remote for it to work. If so then I'm screwed. The dog did a number on the piece. Just wondering. p.s. There's probably no way of getting just that piece is there? Been looking online, no luck so far.


What kind of piece is it? Where on the remote is it located?


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## P Smith

Post pictures of the remote, the tab's remains ..


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## ewingr

If it's the piece that has a 1, or 2 on it, flat, half round...you can get them from Dish. I got a whole kit of them from them a while back.

There are different ones that are used depending on whather it's remote 1, or two, and a given version of the remote.


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## James Long

Hopefully in this forum it would be a Hopper/Joey remote. No numbers. The DISH logo on the bottom is removable but not service affecting.


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## knightrider1

We just got the Hopper and I’m trying to get the remote to work with the DVD player. I can turn on and play the DVD with the remote but I can’t seem to get the remote to change TV inputs so it is on the correct input for the DVD. The remote will bring up the input screen but when I push the up button to change inputs it changes the channel on the TV to channel 2. I want to use only one remote and not 3.


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## greatwhitenorth

knightrider1;3181349 said:


> We just got the Hopper and I'm trying to get the remote to work with the DVD player. I can turn on and play the DVD with the remote but I can't seem to get the remote to change TV inputs so it is on the correct input for the DVD. The remote will bring up the input screen but when I push the up button to change inputs it changes the channel on the TV to channel 2. I want to use only one remote and not 3.


Try hitting the input buttons multiple times to cycle through the inputs. Alternatively, try "page up" and "page down". Good luck.


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## thomasjk

knightrider1 said:


> We just got the Hopper and I'm trying to get the remote to work with the DVD player. I can turn on and play the DVD with the remote but I can't seem to get the remote to change TV inputs so it is on the correct input for the DVD. The remote will bring up the input screen but when I push the up button to change inputs it changes the channel on the TV to channel 2. I want to use only one remote and not 3.


Push the TV mode button then push the input button to cycle through the inputs.


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## DN2014

Hi -
I have read all 5 pages on this thread, but can't find how to pair to a joey, a 21.0 pro remote (was used on a 722) set to IR and
number 1 set on the front. I have change the front panel on the remote to a '2', still doesn't try to pair. Held
within a foot of the joey. Pressed the sat button twice. pressed the menu button twice.
What do I need to do?

Thanks!
Doug


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## n0qcu

IR remotes DO NOT pair.
You need to go to remote manager on the Joey and turn on the IR remote function. Makes sure the address of the 21.0 remote is set to 1


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## DN2014

Thank you, Kevin. It worked!
Doug


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## ARM07470

jdskycaster said:


> Interesting dilemma that tech support says cannot be remedied at this time. I have 2 hoppers. Both are controlled via my central IR distribution system so I need the ability to set the IR code set used by each hopper.
> 
> Anyone know if this is possible and that tech support does not know about it? It would be great if I would not have to upgrade my distribution system to make it addressable rather than the Hoppers.
> 
> JD


Sorry to be quoting such an old post but I'm wondering if Dish ever got around to supporting different IR code sets on the Hopper or Joey. I have a Hopper and Joey being installed tomorrow and plan to put them in the same equipment rack where I currently have my 722 and 622. The old receivers could be selected from any TV in the house and were separately addressable by using different IR code sets on each. It sounds like my upgrade plan might hit a snag if both the Hopper and Joey will be responding to the same infrared codes.


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## thomasjk

The 40.0 remotes for the Hopper and Joey use UHF to communicate not IR. IR is used for the TV, DVD etc.


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## n0qcu

No, they still only will work with IR address #1.


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## audiomaster

Can someone tell me the proper way to open the case on a 40.0 remote? I have a dead one and I want to poke around in it.


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## smokemake

Hi Everyone, I know this is an old post but lots of useful information here.
my questions if an expert could answer is,

what remotes will work with hopper and joey? 32.0, 40.0 and 54.0 will all work? what about older remotes like 4.4 or 6.4, 20.1?
do you know if they will work on the Bell express vu hopper the new 9500?


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## scooper

40.0 and anything with a 50-54 will work. You MIGHT be able to get the older ones to work, but you will be guessing which address the Hopper / Joey is on.


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## n0qcu

scooper said:


> 40.0 and anything with a 50-54 will work. You MIGHT be able to get the older ones to work,* but you will be guessing which address the Hopper / Joey is on.*



No you wont because the Hopper/Joey ONLY use address #1


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## smokemake

So what remotes will work exactly? 
Do you know of this is also the case with the 9500 Bev?


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## Jim5506

Older remotes are IR, so you must turn that on on the receiver for 20.0 type remotes to work.


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