# Rg-11 cable run



## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Hi there, I am trying to figure out a solution to my problem of having too many trees in the way of acquiring a satellite signal for TV and internet. I was originally thinking of doing a fiber optic setup for the 600 feet or so that I need to bridge from the house to the dishes, but that won't allow the LNBs to be powered and now I am thinking of trying rg11 cable instead. Will rg-11 be able to run 600 feet or so with out amplification? I have looked at a few charts online and am thinking I will have about 30 dB of signal loss for that run, but don't know what that translates to on my TV or computer screen.


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

I'm assuming you are running a single RG11 to a dish with a SWM LNB? Looks like RG11 would lose around 5-6 db per foot at SWM frequencies, so you'd need to make up around 30 db like you said, which is easily doable with an amplifier. Make sure you get solid copper center RG11 to minimize voltage loss, and use a PI29 29 volt power supply and you should be good to go.

Here's an amplifier with 28db gain, which should be plenty. Sonora SWM Extension Line Amplifier (LA281RT) from Solid Signal


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## jimmie57 (Jun 26, 2010)

slice1900 said:


> I'm assuming you are running a single RG11 to a dish with a SWM LNB? Looks like RG11 would lose around 5-6 db per foot at SWM frequencies, so you'd need to make up around 30 db like you said, which is easily doable with an amplifier. Make sure you get solid copper center RG11 to minimize voltage loss, and use a PI29 29 volt power supply and you should be good to go.
> 
> Here's an amplifier with 28db gain, which should be plenty. Sonora SWM Extension Line Amplifier (LA281RT) from Solid Signal


I know NOTHING ABOUT THIS TYPE OF STUFF.
I read the specs, description, etc and it says it is good for 400 ft of RG11 and the OP is going to be 600 ft.
Will this still work ? Will he get the extra footage by using the 29v PI in place of the 21v ?
Thanks


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Thanks for your replies !

I was wondering about the power supply as well. Forgive my shoddy internet searching (I only have internet access on my phone during lunch breaks from work) but I was wondering if I could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Sa...149400&sr=8-3&keywords=in-line+coax+amplifier or something similar. I didn't know if I would be able to get enough power to the LNB after this thing stole supply to power itself or not. I was hoping to not have to supply power to anything out in the field now that I went away from the fiber optic system I was building. I was told that running SO cord would be an issue due to phase loss at that distance (?) so I had planned to buy a solar panel/battery/inverter setup to supply the power, but now that all seems a bit much and was hoping for a better (read: cheaper) option.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Also, since I am having the same problem with tv and internet, I believe I'll need to run two separate cables, one for the net and one for the tv. Will I need 2 amplifiers to do this, or would that Sonora be able to do both lines?


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## jimmie57 (Jun 26, 2010)

Randy C said:


> Also, since I am having the same problem with tv and internet, I believe I'll need to run two separate cables, one for the net and one for the tv. Will I need 2 amplifiers to do this, or would that Sonora be able to do both lines?


I believe you can connect to the internet in the cabin, unless you are going to get satellite internet which I know nothing about.

I put 1 of those small amps inline on my TV antenna and it did next to nothing.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

jimmie57 said:


> I believe you can connect to the internet in the cabin, unless you are going to get satellite internet which I know nothing about.
> 
> I put 1 of those small amps inline on my TV antenna and it did next to nothing.


Yeah I was afraid that looked like a too-good-to-be-true device for sure, especially after seeing what slice1900 posted up. Unfortunately, my house is in a cell tower dead spot as well, so yeah, it'll have to be satellite internet too, which sucks bad for a gamer. No more FPSs for me.

I've been seeing that there appears to be some differences between satellite tv vs. satellite internet hookups, so that has me worried but I don't know enough to know what to be worried about. Still unsure how I'm going to run power as well, unless I have to go with the solar option, in which case that shouldn't be an issue. I'd rather just run the SO cord though since I'll already be running the rg11 through conduit.


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## longrider (Apr 21, 2007)

The difference between satellite internet and TV is huge. First and foremost, you are also transmitting back to the satellite. There is no way to combine TV and internet on one coax. When I last used sat internet (10+ years ago) it required 2 coax to the dish. I would talk to the internet installer and see what will work. As you are transmitting back to the sat there are FCC regs over what you can do and who can do it. 

Regarding the power, forget the SO cord. I would run a second conduit and for that distance probably a 10 gauge or at least 12 gauge to prevent excessive voltage drop


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Ok, so I was informed correctly then, at least so far as basically an extension cord not working. So my two options seem to be more conduit and bigger power line, or back to the fiber setup, which is considerably more expensive and complicated. Obviously I'm going to go with the rg11 since it will be cheaper, but I was curious if there were any copper to fiber converters out there that would also work to supply power to the 2 LNBs? That was the main hang-up I had with going fiber, there didn't seem to be any way to power the dish since they all take power from the rg6 nowadays.


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

Randy C said:


> I was curious if there were any copper to fiber converters out there that would also work to supply power to the 2 LNBs?


skip the idea - it has not feasible solution (convert DC to high-power light emission, then the light to DC ?)


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

P Smith said:


> skip the idea - it has not feasible solution (convert DC to high-power light emission, then the light to DC ?)


I agree you're probably right, but what I was thinking was a solar panel setup charging a deep cycle battery or two (however many are required), then using a true sine wave output inverter to power the copper-to-fiber converter. I was wondering if the input power for the converter could also be used to power the LNB through the rg6 connection before the signal ever gets converted to light for transmission.


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## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

you must properly count an energy balance ... not sure if it really will work if your weather not allow charge batteries 360 d/year
imagine, no sunlight goes for a few days - any batteries will be drained


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

jimmie57 said:


> I know NOTHING ABOUT THIS TYPE OF STUFF.
> I read the specs, description, etc and it says it is good for 400 ft of RG11 and the OP is going to be 600 ft.
> Will this still work ? Will he get the extra footage by using the 29v PI in place of the 21v ?
> Thanks


It says it _offsets_ 400 ft of RG11, meaning that 600 ft run turns into a 200 ft run which is a bit long but not an issue at all. Sonora tends to be rather conservative in their specs, I think 28 db would offset almost the entire 600 ft but it depends on which loss numbers for RG11 you believe - if you google you'll find a range of loss numbers provided. Who to believe?


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Randy C said:


> Thanks for your replies !
> 
> I was wondering about the power supply as well. Forgive my shoddy internet searching (I only have internet access on my phone during lunch breaks from work) but I was wondering if I could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Sa...149400&sr=8-3&keywords=in-line+coax+amplifier or something similar. I didn't know if I would be able to get enough power to the LNB after this thing stole supply to power itself or not. I was hoping to not have to supply power to anything out in the field now that I went away from the fiber optic system I was building. I was told that running SO cord would be an issue due to phase loss at that distance (?) so I had planned to buy a solar panel/battery/inverter setup to supply the power, but now that all seems a bit much and was hoping for a better (read: cheaper) option.


Set it up like so:

dish <-> 600 ft span <-> amplifier <-> PI29 <-> splitter -> your receivers

The amplifier will be powered by its included power supply plugged into its dedicated power port, and the PI29 will power the dish's LNB through the amplifier and 600 ft RG11 run (if you make sure it is solid copper)


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Randy C said:


> I've been seeing that there appears to be some differences between satellite tv vs. satellite internet hookups, so that has me worried but I don't know enough to know what to be worried about. Still unsure how I'm going to run power as well, unless I have to go with the solar option, in which case that shouldn't be an issue. I'd rather just run the SO cord though since I'll already be running the rg11 through conduit.


Satellite internet is two way, amplifiers won't work. Your best bet there is to locate your satellite internet router next to the dish, and run cat6a to deliver ethernet back to your house. Regular ethernet is limited to 100 meters due to timing, so you need something that runs modified ethernet to exceed it. Fiber would also work, but I think a pair of these would come out cheaper:

LONGSPAN-Point TO POINT ETHERNET & POE EXTENDER BASE - Newegg.com

That also does PoE - it will deliver 25 watts at 600 meters using their power supply. If that's enough to power your satellite internet dish and router, great. It might do more than that since you're 600 feet not 600 meters, you could contact the vendor and ask. Otherwise you'll need that solar/battery system.


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## jimmie57 (Jun 26, 2010)

Randy C said:


> Hi there, I am trying to figure out a solution to my problem of having too many trees in the way of acquiring a satellite signal for TV and internet. I was originally thinking of doing a fiber optic setup for the 600 feet or so that I need to bridge from the house to the dishes, but that won't allow the LNBs to be powered and now I am thinking of trying rg11 cable instead. Will rg-11 be able to run 600 feet or so with out amplification? I have looked at a few charts online and am thinking I will have about 30 dB of signal loss for that run, but don't know what that translates to on my TV or computer screen.


After reading the posts here to help you get what you are asking for,
how about putting a chain saw to work and clear a spot closer to the cabin ?
If you go there twice a year for a week, why go to this effort to watch TV and play games, you can do that at home ?


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

jimmie57 said:


> I know NOTHING ABOUT THIS TYPE OF STUFF.
> I read the specs, description, etc and it says it is good for 400 ft of RG11 and the OP is going to be 600 ft.
> Will this still work ? Will he get the extra footage by using the 29v PI in place of the 21v ?
> Thanks


I've been using one of those amplifiers for years. Had a problem with MRV and a good friend suggested trying one from Solid Signal. Hooked it up and the problem went away. Not expensive and easy to install.

Rich


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

Randy C said:


> Also, since I am having the same problem with tv and internet, I believe I'll need to run two separate cables, one for the net and one for the tv. Will I need 2 amplifiers to do this, or would that Sonora be able to do both lines?


I'd think you'd be better off with separate amplifiers. The amp I use has four ports for coax, which I needed to feed a second cascaded SWM16. Not sure if an amp like that would work for you. Call Solid Signal and ask them what you need, they were very helpful when I purchased the amp.

Rich


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

jimmie57 said:


> After reading the posts here to help you get what you are asking for,
> how about putting a chain saw to work and clear a spot closer to the cabin ?
> If you go there twice a year for a week, why go to this effort to watch TV and play games, you can do that at home ?


I'd have those trees down in a heartbeat. Less trouble, the path of least resistance is the way I always go.

Rich


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

jimmie57 said:


> After reading the posts here to help you get what you are asking for,
> how about putting a chain saw to work and clear a spot closer to the cabin ?
> If you go there twice a year for a week, why go to this effort to watch TV and play games, you can do that at home ?





Rich said:


> I'd have those trees down in a heartbeat. Less trouble, the path of least resistance is the way I always go.
> 
> Rich


This house is actually our dream home that we'll be living in for the next 30 years, not a simple cabin in the woods...


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

slice1900 said:


> dish <-> 600 ft span <-> amplifier <-> PI29 <-> splitter -> your receivers


Now this looks similar to what I was thinking and it appears it will be the easiest way to make all this work. So now, based on other comments in this thread, it looks like I might need to run two cable runs for each the tv and internet? And then I can just power both the amp and the PI29 at the house.

But about the amplifier. Wouldn't I want to amplify the signal prior to the long run? It seems to me if I have signal loss and try to amplify the degraded signal than I'm still losing fidelity. Wouldn't it be preferable to amplify the signal prior to the run so when it degrades over the run I end up with comparable signal and loss as if the gap wasn't there? I definitely would prefer to not have to run a separate line for power, but if I'm going to go through all this trouble I'd like to get it done right the first time and get the best signal possible out of it.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Rich said:


> Call Solid Signal and ask them what you need, they were very helpful when I purchased the amp.


I'll do that, thanks. One of the things that has been hampering this evolution is that I don't really have anybody in my small town to talk to about it, and the few that I have tried with look at me like I'm growing a second head. No installer is even willing to consider the run, they all just look at the trees, shake their head and walk away.


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## longrider (Apr 21, 2007)

Randy C said:


> Now this looks similar to what I was thinking and it appears it will be the easiest way to make all this work. So now, based on other comments in this thread, it looks like I might need to run two cable runs for each the tv and internet? And then I can just power both the amp and the PI29 at the house.
> 
> But about the amplifier. Wouldn't I want to amplify the signal prior to the long run? It seems to me if I have signal loss and try to amplify the degraded signal than I'm still losing fidelity. Wouldn't it be preferable to amplify the signal prior to the run so when it degrades over the run I end up with comparable signal and loss as if the gap wasn't there? I definitely would prefer to not have to run a separate line for power, but if I'm going to go through all this trouble I'd like to get it done right the first time and get the best signal possible out of it.


I was thinking the same thing. I have a lot of respect for the poster but I always put the amplifier first. If you amplify at the house you are amplifying the noise as much as the signal.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

slice1900 said:


> That also does PoE - it will deliver 25 watts at 600 meters using their power supply. If that's enough to power your satellite internet dish and router, great. It might do more than that since you're 600 feet not 600 meters, you could contact the vendor and ask. Otherwise you'll need that solar/battery system.


So as I'm drawing this system out, I'm thinking that the second longspan device will probably need to be powered from a 120V AC source, right? And so will the router I would think, so it kinda looks like I'm not going to be able to avoid running power out there...

Well, now that I'm looking at the veracity product page for the longspan it does seem like I might not need a power supply for the extender after all, but still presumably for the router. I'm not sure if HughesNet routers need their own power supply or if they are PoE...


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## longrider (Apr 21, 2007)

I dont know about teh latest equipment as it has been 10 years since I used DirecWay (now HughesNet) but they were NOT POE. Also the receiver is just a modem, you still want your own router. If you do run power out to the dish and can build a weatherproof enclosure I would probably put all the sat internet equipment at the dish and run fiber for data. Fiber wont have the 100 meter limit Ethernet has.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

longrider said:


> I dont know about teh latest equipment as it has been 10 years since I used DirecWay (now HughesNet) but they were NOT POE. Also the receiver is just a modem, you still want your own router. If you do run power out to the dish and can build a weatherproof enclosure I would probably put all the sat internet equipment at the dish and run fiber for data. Fiber wont have the 100 meter limit Ethernet has.


That was my original consideration, using fiber to transmit the data, but the lack of power supply to the two LNBs kinda squashed that idea. However, using a PI-29 would work for the tv dish, so if I could do that for the internet dish as well that would be ideal. It would also allow me to condense my power and fiber into one conduit run as opposed to two, making that a little easier as well.

I'm going to call solid signal Monday and see what we can come up with. It sounds like they're the ones to talk to in person and nail down some of these ideas you folks have given me.


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Randy C said:


> But about the amplifier. Wouldn't I want to amplify the signal prior to the long run? It seems to me if I have signal loss and try to amplify the degraded signal than I'm still losing fidelity. Wouldn't it be preferable to amplify the signal prior to the run so when it degrades over the run I end up with comparable signal and loss as if the gap wasn't there? I definitely would prefer to not have to run a separate line for power, but if I'm going to go through all this trouble I'd like to get it done right the first time and get the best signal possible out of it.


You can't amplify a strong signal beyond a certain point or you'll make it worse (imagine trying to add an amplifier to your sound system when it is already cranked up - your speakers will distort)

You might be able to get away with Sonora's 14 db model at the far end and another amplifier at the near end, but there's no way amplifying by 28 db at the far end wouldn't compress and destroy the integrity of the signal. You'd be surprised at how weak a signal can get where an amplifier can still recover it almost identical in quality to what it was originally (and don't worry, even if the signal integrity is only "almost as good" as it was originally your picture quality won't suffer since it is digital)


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

longrider said:


> I dont know about teh latest equipment as it has been 10 years since I used DirecWay (now HughesNet) but they were NOT POE. Also the receiver is just a modem, you still want your own router. If you do run power out to the dish and can build a weatherproof enclosure I would probably put all the sat internet equipment at the dish and run fiber for data. Fiber wont have the 100 meter limit Ethernet has.


I wasn't suggesting POE to directly power the router/modem/whatever his satellite internet uses. You'd have to use a POE extractor and figure out a way to use it to power that device. I left that part out because I have no idea what he has on that end, what sort of a plug it has, what sort of voltage it needs, etc. Just another option, assuming he can figure out how to connect the two more easily/cheaply than he can put in a solar battery system or run a 110v AC circuit down there.


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

Randy C said:


> This house is actually our dream home that we'll be living in for the next 30 years, not a simple cabin in the woods...


I guess there's a reason for not taking the trees down? I'm not suggesting the whole forest, just enough to get a signal for the next 30 years. How's about a picture of the house, I'm sure I'm not the only one that's curious?

Rich


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

Randy C said:


> Now this looks similar to what I was thinking and it appears it will be the easiest way to make all this work. So now, based on other comments in this thread, it looks like I might need to run two cable runs for each the tv and internet? And then I can just power both the amp and the PI29 at the house.
> 
> But about the amplifier. Wouldn't I want to amplify the signal prior to the long run? It seems to me if I have signal loss and try to amplify the degraded signal than I'm still losing fidelity. Wouldn't it be preferable to amplify the signal prior to the run so when it degrades over the run I end up with comparable signal and loss as if the gap wasn't there? I definitely would prefer to not have to run a separate line for power, but if I'm going to go through all this trouble I'd like to get it done right the first time and get the best signal possible out of it.


The guy I talked to at Solid Signal told me where to put the amp. You really ought to call them.

Rich


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

longrider said:


> I was thinking the same thing. I have a lot of respect for the poster but I always put the amplifier first. If you amplify at the house you are amplifying the noise as much as the signal.


I was wondering about the same thing, I don't have the knowledge to say anything much about this. The guy I spoke to at SS was a big help. My amp is at the end of a 50 to 60 foot run and feeds the second SWM16 switch with short coax jumpers. For a much longer run would two amps work, one at the beginning of the run and one nearer the end? Just a WAG, I know the amps SS sells are relatively inexpensive.

Rich


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Rich said:


> I was wondering about the same thing, I don't have the knowledge to say anything much about this. The guy I spoke to at SS was a big help. My amp is at the end of a 50 to 60 foot run and feeds the second SWM16 switch with short coax jumpers. For a much longer run would two amps work, one at the beginning of the run and one nearer the end? Just a WAG, I know the amps SS sells are relatively inexpensive.
> 
> Rich


Yes, smaller two amps would work but then you need more power on the far end. I really don't think there would be any measurable difference doing this versus one larger amp.

I was going for the simplest setup. Solid Signal are the experts though, so if they don't like that idea and think an amp on both ends is necessary then yeah it is only an extra $70 or so. They offer returns so you could try one, and if isn't rock solid send it back and get two smaller ones.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

I'm definitely going to call those guys tomorrow, just from listening to you guys it sounds like they'll be able to set me up properly.

I'll post some pictures in a bit to let you see what I'm looking at.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Alright, I just tried to upload a picture but it said it was too large to upload. I'll try again tomorrow when I get onto a computer. 

On the upside though, I was walking my property earlier and I discovered a 240V power box halfway to the site I'm going to use for the dishes! I've yet to check and make sure it's powered, but talking to the previous owner I have no reason to believe it doesn't, so I have power halfway to the site! What kind of cord should I run for power for only 200-300 feet? Standard SO cable at this point, or will I still have to go a little larger?


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## longrider (Apr 21, 2007)

Randy C said:


> Alright, I just tried to upload a picture but it said it was too large to upload. I'll try again tomorrow when I get onto a computer.
> 
> On the upside though, I was walking my property earlier and I discovered a 240V power box halfway to the site I'm going to use for the dishes! I've yet to check and make sure it's powered, but talking to the previous owner I have no reason to believe it doesn't, so I have power halfway to the site! What kind of cord should I run for power for only 200-300 feet? Standard SO cable at this point, or will I still have to go a little larger?


That box definitely makes it easier, but I would still not use SO cord as it just wont last for more than a few years and we are not even discussing code. If the cord plugs into a regular receptacle code is no longer an issue but I still dont recommend it. For that distance I would get some 14/2 W/Ground type UF romex which is certified for direct burial. At this point I would get a local electrician involved, you need to be sure you have a neutral in that box to derive a 120V circuit and the breaker feeding it in the house will most likely need to be changed. You dont happen to be in Colorado are you? I would be happy to give you a hand


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Well that was a complete waste of time. I chatted with Solid Signal online (while I'm at work) and the guy there was less than helpful, he wouldn't answer any of my questions and mostly spent the entire time evading them. So then I took a break and called them, but that guy wasn't much help either. He basically said nobody knows much about my situation because they really only deal with home runs, not extended runs like this. Guess I'm going to have to cross my fingers and roll the dice and see what happens.


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Pretty sure they offer returns, so in the unlikely event what you buy just plain doesn't work you won't be out any more than shipping cost.


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

Randy C said:


> Well that was a complete waste of time. I chatted with Solid Signal online (while I'm at work) and the guy there was less than helpful, he wouldn't answer any of my questions and mostly spent the entire time evading them. So then I took a break and called them, but that guy wasn't much help either. He basically said nobody knows much about my situation because they really only deal with home runs, not extended runs like this. Guess I'm going to have to cross my fingers and roll the dice and see what happens.


Well, it was a few years ago that I bought the amp from SS, perhaps things have changed there? The guy I talked to was very knowledgeable. I'm surprised...and disappointed. Wonder if Stuart still reads posts here...

Rich


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## Rich (Feb 22, 2007)

slice1900 said:


> Pretty sure they offer returns, so in the unlikely event what you buy just plain doesn't work you won't be out any more than shipping cost.


Betcha Amazon sells them, probably easier to return something to them. I do that a lot, visit sites, get the model info, buy at Amazon. Less hassle.

Rich


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Rich said:


> Betcha Amazon sells them, probably easier to return something to them. I do that a lot, visit sites, get the model info, buy at Amazon. Less hassle.
> 
> Rich


Yes just checked and Amazon sells the LA281R-T I linked before - and there's a review stating "We had to amplify a Direct TV signal over 500ft of RJ11 Coax. The amplifier is performing exactly as anticipated."


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

Sorry guys, forgot to update this thread once I got my problem sorted. I ordered 1000 ft of rg11 cable and ran the line from the dish to the receiver. I tried the sonora amplifier but couldn't get it to work, so I either had it hooked up wrong (highly possible) or it just didn't work. However, it turns out I simply didn't need it. I mocked up the setup before it was installed and running through the entire 1000ft length we had next to no voltage loss to the receiver. I wound up using only about half the length, and when it was installed I got a signal of 55db, which seems to work just fine. So definitely thank you for the help on that front!

Now I have a minor issue I was hoping you could further assist me with. I've created a separate post about this on the main forum, but thought you folks might know as well. I have a set of wireless headphones set up in my system that sound awesome when watching a blu-ray, but very lackluster when watching TV. If I was able to get that sonora amplifier to work in my system, would that increase the volume on those headphones?


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Amplifying the Directv signal doesn't change the audio/video quality at all, it just makes the signal stronger so it is able to tolerate more loss. So long as you keep a stable picture the amp is of no benefit to you other than to give you more leeway for problems that will weaken the signal.

When you say "lackluster" do you mean the Directv audio is quiet or something else? Directv receivers have a low volume output for whatever reason. I addressed the problem with this: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-LINE-PRE-AMPLIFIER-15DB-12VDC/dp/B00I01ZNUS. Stick that between the receiver and what sends to your wireless headphones, and turn the dial up to where you want the volume to be.

Why Directv doesn't just make the output louder since they seem to be quieter than any other audio device outputting at a line level is a mystery.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

slice1900 said:


> Amplifying the Directv signal doesn't change the audio/video quality at all, it just makes the signal stronger so it is able to tolerate more loss. So long as you keep a stable picture the amp is of no benefit to you other than to give you more leeway for problems that will weaken the signal.
> 
> When you say "lackluster" do you mean the Directv audio is quiet or something else? Directv receivers have a low volume output for whatever reason. I addressed the problem with this: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-LINE-PRE-AMPLIFIER-15DB-12VDC/dp/B00I01ZNUS. Stick that between the receiver and what sends to your wireless headphones, and turn the dial up to where you want the volume to be.
> 
> Why Directv doesn't just make the output louder since they seem to be quieter than any other audio device outputting at a line level is a mystery.


Slice, you have been most helpful with these issues I've been having, and your links to the items I need are greatly appreciated. Yeah, the audio coming through the headphones on the dish network TV is quite low. I was thinking the headphones might be needing to be replaced, but then I watched blade runner 2049 and the headphones nearly deafened me the first time a loud scene came up. The difference was unreal and I realized there was nothing wrong with the headphones at all.

I'll definitely check out this amplifier for sure. I'm glad it is all I will need; I'm not convinced I could have gotten the sonora to work if I tried it again. Thanks again, much much appreciated.


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## Randy C (Oct 27, 2017)

And the line amplifier worked perfectly. Thanks again Slice, you're a rockstar!


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## dreadlk (Sep 18, 2007)

slice1900 said:


> I'm assuming you are running a single RG11 to a dish with a SWM LNB? Looks like RG11 would lose around 5-6 db per foot at SWM frequencies, so you'd need to make up around 30 db like you said, which is easily doable with an amplifier. Make sure you get solid copper center RG11 to minimize voltage loss, and use a PI29 29 volt power supply and you should be good to go.
> 
> Here's an amplifier with 28db gain, which should be plenty. Sonora SWM Extension Line Amplifier (LA281RT) from Solid Signal


You sure you did not mean 6dB per 100 ft?


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## slice1900 (Feb 14, 2013)

Yes I meant per 100 ft


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