# SubWoofer Repaired, Still No Sound?



## thomamon

So I returned my SubWoofer for repair to DefinitiveTechnologies. Before I sent it, it was making a loud popping noise and no sound was coming out of it other then that.

I got it back yesterday and just had time to fix it, but still no sound appears to be coming out fit. I went into the settings on my Receiver wish is a Pioneer VSX-43, went to the levels for each speaker and tested it and as I thought no sound came out there either. 

Is there any other way I can confirm that it is not working? The green light in the back is on the Subwoofer, the volume is up. I have tried multiple sources to get sound, but nothing coming from it

I am beyond frustrated that after being without it for a few weeks, I get it back and it still isn't working.

Any help wold be appreciative.


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## jimmie57

Is it possible that your speaker configuration took out the sub woofer when it was removed from the system ?
Maybe you have to set up the speakers again ?


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## MysteryMan

AVR's usually have a Speaker Output Test Tone mode which verifies speakers are working. As jimmie57 stated you may have to set up your speaker configuration again and verify that the Speaker Pattern, Speaker Level, and Speaker Distance settings are correct. Another possibility is the Subwoofer cable may have a short-circuit issue.


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## Rich

MysteryMan said:


> AVR's usually have a Speaker Output Test Tone mode which verifies speakers are working. As jimmie57 stated you may have to set up your speaker configuration again and verify that the Speaker Pattern, Speaker Level, and Speaker Distance settings are correct. Another possibility is the Subwoofer cable may have a short-circuit issue.


I had that same problem on my best Sony AVR. I finally figured out that the UPS was bad and that was affecting the subwoofer (I don't know why, I just know it happened) adversely. New UPS and the subwoofer has been fine. Didn't have to go thru any resetting of the speaker system, it reverted to working correctly as soon as I setup the new UPS.

Rich


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## harsh

Given the variety of subwoofer offerings (currently 8), it would be useful to know which one.

Make sure there aren't any selector switches or configuration options that are set wrong. Some models have multiple input configurations and it is possible that it is set to the wrong input or muted.


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## jimmie57

thomamon said:


> So I returned my SubWoofer for repair to DefinitiveTechnologies. Before I sent it, it was making a loud popping noise and no sound was coming out of it other then that.
> 
> I got it back yesterday and just had time to fix it, but still no sound appears to be coming out fit. I went into the settings on my Receiver wish is a Pioneer VSX-43, went to the levels for each speaker and tested it and as I thought no sound came out there either.
> 
> Is there any other way I can confirm that it is not working? The green light in the back is on the Subwoofer, the volume is up. I have tried multiple sources to get sound, but nothing coming from it
> 
> I am beyond frustrated that after being without it for a few weeks, I get it back and it still isn't working.
> 
> Any help wold be appreciative.


Do you have a friend or neighbor that you could take your sub to their house and hook it up to their system to see if it works there ?
Have you called the people that did the repair and questioned them about it ?


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## thomamon

It is the ProSub 600...

I went through all the settings and nothing, tested all the levels to all the speakers and they all had sound come out but the subwoofer when they tested that one. I reset the receiver and set it up again, but still no luck.

I tried another outlet, still no luck.

I wrote the company and got this letter back...



> Realistically, there are two options that could be at play here. The first, and less likely, is that our technicians installed an amplifier module that is also faulty, and unable to pass audio to the woofer cone. The second, and more likely scenario, is that during transit, the connector on the back of the subwoofer cone was bumped loose, and so now the woofer cone is now disconnected.
> 
> If you would like someone to take a look at the inside of the subwoofer, we can point you in the direction of someone local to pop the woofer cone out and check the connection. In the event that that connection is fine, we would likely pursue having that amplifier replaced again (again, not likely, but not entirely impossible).


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## harsh

I'd do the wiring check (I'm surprised they want someone to unmount the driver). It would take either a damaged spade lug or unimaginable forces to dislodge a connector. Then again, I can't imagine them shipping it out without testing it.

Is there a power indicator on the sub that at least suggests it is getting power (the manual doesn't have any illustrations).


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## Rich

harsh said:


> I'd do the wiring check (I'm surprised they want someone to unmount the driver). It would take either a damaged spade lug or unimaginable forces to dislodge a connector. Then again, I can't imagine them shipping it out without testing it.
> 
> Is there a power indicator on the sub that at least suggests it is getting power (the manual doesn't have any illustrations).


In his OP, he says, "The green light in the back is on the Subwoofer".

Rich


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## jimmie57

thomamon said:


> It is the ProSub 600...
> 
> I went through all the settings and nothing, tested all the levels to all the speakers and they all had sound come out but the subwoofer when they tested that one. I reset the receiver and set it up again, but still no luck.
> 
> I tried another outlet, still no luck.
> 
> I wrote the company and got this letter back...


I had one repaired and a wire did come off in shipping.
It is very easy to remove the amp and see if the wires are all connected.
When my son works on stereo stuff, especially for cars, he uses a hot glue gun to help keep the connections in place and not come off.

I also have an expensive Velodyne 10" SPL-1000 that they want $237 to repair and me pay shipping to them ( sending just the amp. This thing has a 23 lb magnet in it ) . I chose to buy a 12" Bic Acoustech Platinum model PL-200 for $279 that has an 8 year warranty on it. It almost sounds as good as the Velodyne.


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## WestDC

Not that will help you - I offer this Solution - Pop the back off and see if all the connections are made (as suggested) or as my rule of thumb is (repair) only if warranty issue- if not - Throw it away and by something New- most of "repair" shops today are replace (test) maybe? Ship it back. Example of my advise is in the post above.


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## thomamon

harsh said:


> I'd do the wiring check (I'm surprised they want someone to unmount the driver). It would take either a damaged spade lug or unimaginable forces to dislodge a connector. Then again, I can't imagine them shipping it out without testing it.
> 
> Is there a power indicator on the sub that at least suggests it is getting power (the manual doesn't have any illustrations).Yes, the light is green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that will help you - I offer this Solution - Pop the back off and see if all the connections are made (as suggested) or as my rule of thumb is (repair) only if warranty issue- if not - Throw it away and by something New- most of "repair" shops today are replace (test) maybe? Ship it back. Example of my advise is in the post above.
> 
> 
> 
> This is less then a year old, I do not want to spend that much money on another one when it is still under warranty.
Click to expand...


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## harsh

Since the amp seems to be getting power, I'd unmount the driver and see if there's a spade connector loose on the driver frame (I'd bet the amp side is soldered). The only difference between what they recommend and I recommend is that I recommend that you consider doing the inspection yourself if you feel confident in doing such things.


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## WestDC

thomamon said:


> I'd do the wiring check (I'm surprised they want someone to unmount the driver). It would take either a damaged spade lug or unimaginable forces to dislodge a connector. Then again, I can't imagine them shipping it out without testing it.
> 
> Is there a power indicator on the sub that at least suggests it is getting power (the manual doesn't have any illustrations).Yes, the light is green.
> 
> Not that will help you - I offer this Solution - Pop the back off and see if all the connections are made (as suggested) or as my rule of thumb is (repair) only if warranty issue- if not - Throw it away and by something New- most of "repair" shops today are replace (test) maybe? Ship it back. Example of my advise is in the post above.
> 
> 
> 
> This is less then a year old, I do not want to spend that much money on another one when it is still under warranty.
Click to expand...

Well, like I said if it's under warranty -PACK IT UP!!- and send it back -or take the advise that has been given from the repair place =and follow their direction.


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## MysteryMan

thomamon said:


> I'd do the wiring check (I'm surprised they want someone to unmount the driver). It would take either a damaged spade lug or unimaginable forces to dislodge a connector. Then again, I can't imagine them shipping it out without testing it.
> 
> Is there a power indicator on the sub that at least suggests it is getting power (the manual doesn't have any illustrations).Yes, the light is green.
> 
> Not that will help you - I offer this Solution - Pop the back off and see if all the connections are made (as suggested) or as my rule of thumb is (repair) only if warranty issue- if not - Throw it away and by something New- most of "repair" shops today are replace (test) maybe? Ship it back. Example of my advise is in the post above.
> 
> 
> 
> This is less then a year old, I do not want to spend that much money on another one when it is still under warranty.
Click to expand...

There are five stages of grief (Denial, Anger, Bargaining, Depression, and Acceptance). Move on to Acceptance and take WestDC's advice. Pack it up and send it back or take the advise of the repair shop.


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## Beerstalker

I'm kind of more inclined to agree with Harsh here, depending on the design of the sub. It the screws to remove the speaker, or the amp are easily accessible, and the OP is comfortable with minor repair work at all, then they could just inspect it themselves. It would probably take a lot less time and effort to do that than to pack it up and take it somewhere (the more times you handle/transport a speaker, the more the likelihood of damaging it).

I just found this thread that has some pictures showing how it should come apart (assuming it is similar to the 800). It looks pretty simple to me.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/1271997-definitive-technology-prosub-1000-rattling.html


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