# vip612 with vip622



## jakemelon (Mar 2, 2011)

Hi,

I have a Vip622 which runs my hdtv in the living room and standard tv upstairs. Recently I upgraded my tv upstairs to a hdtv and bought a vip612 for it.

The question I have is how do I configure the 622's output to passthru the satellite signal to the 612? 

I don't want to run a whole new coax line to the 612 if I already have it going from the 622. I'm looking for a simple solution to make this work if possible.

thanks,
jake


----------



## BobaBird (Mar 31, 2002)

:welcome_s to DBSTalk!

Every receiver must have its own run of RG6 from the dish (or external switch). The satellite signal does not get passed raw through the receiver.


----------



## jakemelon (Mar 2, 2011)

Ok. Could I split the signal right before the 622 and connect one part to the 612 and the other to the 622? if so what kind of splitter and/or switch would I need? or am I am really better off running another 100ft of cable from roof for the 612? 

thanks
jake


----------



## [email protected] Network (Jan 6, 2011)

Honestly, the separate feed from the dish is best. Depending on your situation, it may be easiest to have a tech visit install it. With a service plan, the visit would be $15. If you do not have the service plan already, you can add it and the tech visit is waived in most cases. Custom installs (wall fishs) direct are an additional charge of $50.

While splitting the signal can be done with an approved and rated splitter, it is not suggested at all, at least not by me. Every splitter knocks down signal and opens the door for other issues, such as "more" fittings along one cables path. A UL listed ground block is honestly the only junction you should have (other then a switch) on each cable, but in essence a "home run" to the dish. If there is a switch, you can port into that assuming it has an open port.


----------



## jakemelon (Mar 2, 2011)

Thank you.

I think I'd like to explore the switch idea. The choices I have are:

1) run brand new 100 ft of cable, drill multiple holes, fish thru walls etc OR
2) use a switch with existing wiring which is only 25 feet away from the vip622 

makes sense? if so what switch would work best in my original scenario?

thank you
jake


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

nope, no sense
switch must have a separate connection from each sat, hence the 'switch' word: connecting all boxes to all sats;
how many sats you have ? - usually [with HD] three: 110/119/129 or 61.5/72.7/77W
what sats you see on your 622's switch check screen ? - a picture would be much desired


----------



## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

[email protected] Network said:


> While splitting the signal can be done with an approved and rated splitter, it is not suggested at all, at least not by me.


Sorry Tony, but the only DISH signal that can be split is a single satellite feed ... such as a single DISHPro feed from 119 being split to two receivers. Once switches get involved (or multi-satellite LNBs that contain switches) it MUST be home run from the switch / LNB.

Non DISH signals can be split (such as feeding an OTA signal to two receivers) but a multi-satellite feed CANNOT be split between two receivers.

With two receivers the best solution would be a separate run from the dish. Splitting the single feed from the dish to two receivers will not work.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

James Long said:


> Sorry Tony, but the only DISH signal that can be split is a single satellite feed ... such as a *single DISHPro feed from 119 being split to two receivers*. Once switches get involved (or multi-satellite LNBs that contain switches) it MUST be home run from the switch / LNB.
> 
> Non DISH signals can be split (such as feeding an OTA signal to two receivers) but a multi-satellite feed CANNOT be split between two receivers.
> 
> With two receivers the best solution would be a separate run from the dish. Splitting the single feed from the dish to two receivers will not work.


Don't forget to add another *mandatory *conditions - the splitter must be rated 950-2150 MHz and has DC pass from one input.


----------



## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

P Smith said:


> Don't forget to add another *mandatory *conditions - the splitter must be rated 950-2150 MHz and has DC pass from one input.


That part was in Tony's post ... an "approved and rated splitter". I have one in my setup (DISH branded DISHPro splitter) but I'm using it to split a feed from a single satellite feed (from one LNB on a 1000+ dish) not the output of a switch.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

I wouldn't emphasize on *approved *word - many third party splitters will works fine if satisfying the two simple conditions.


----------



## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

P Smith said:


> I wouldn't emphasize on *approved *word - many third party splitters will works fine if satisfying the two simple conditions.


Don't let it get lost that no level of approval will accomplish what the OP wants to do with his feed ... split a multi-satellite feed post switch to two receivers. NO DISH or third party splitter will work fine for what the OP wants to do.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

I did that in my post#6 here ...


----------



## BattleZone (Nov 13, 2007)

[email protected] Network said:


> While splitting the signal can be done with an approved and rated splitter, it is not suggested at all, at least not by me.


You *cannot* split a signal going to a receiver to feed another receiver. It simply won't work. Every receiver MUST have a direct cable run from the dish (which usually has an integrated multiswitch in the LNB pack) or the switch to the receiver. No way around it.

It *is* possible to split lines from an LNB or even a switch to feed several other switches (and they must be connected exactly right or it won't work), but that only works for feeding additional switches, not between a switch and a receiver.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

BattleZone said:


> You *cannot* split a signal going to a receiver to feed another receiver. It simply won't work. Every receiver MUST have a direct cable run from the dish (which usually has an integrated multiswitch in the LNB pack) or the switch to the receiver. *No way around it.*
> 
> It *is* possible to split lines from an LNB or even a switch to feed several other switches (and they must be connected exactly right or it won't work), but that only works for feeding additional switches, not between a switch and a receiver.


Perhaps reading James post above would help you a little to avoid such categorical statement ?

[The post looks ignorant to other messages in the thread.]


----------



## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

The "single orbital location" on a DISHPro system (or single polarity of a single orbital on a legacy LNB) is more of a very narrow exception to the rule. Not many people have only one orbital serving their system. Most people need at least two orbitals to get their entire programming package, with a three orbital dish being the current standard install.

It is such a narrow exception that I almost didn't mention it ... but I figured someone else would raise it and it would just confuse the issue more.

For the sake of the needs of the OP in this thread, no "splitter" will work. A direct line from the switch (built in to his 1000.4 LNBF assembly) is the best solution.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

Yes, for the OP we did exhausted drill and gave him all possible options.
It was just factual point regardless OP request.


----------



## Jodean (Jul 17, 2010)

so how about a 2nd line from the dish to the 622 location from which he can splice into the cable that would feed the 612?

If thats easier than running the cable straight from the dish to the 612 i guess.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

> he can splice into the cable


How ? Specifically ? 
Splice ?


----------



## TulsaOK (Feb 24, 2004)

Take a deep breath, P.


----------



## P Smith (Jul 25, 2002)

I did, but can't hold ANYMORE ! ....


----------

