# Decided to Pole Mount Myself



## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

After hearing so many of the horror stories regarding installs, I have decided to install my new Slimline myself as I have with all my previous equipment.

This is the pole setup i am going to use:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...194&lpage=none

http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_disp...p?PROD=SKY1101

I'm going to sink the pole about 2 1/2 to 3 feet.

How many bags of cement do you think I'll need?

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks


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## say-what (Dec 14, 2006)

The title of this thread sounds painful :eek2: 

How much concrete you need depends on the dimensions of the hole. The bigger the diameter, the more concrete. 2 or 3 bags should do....


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## boba (May 23, 2003)

say-what said:


> The title of this thread sounds painful :eek2:
> 
> How much concrete you need depends on the dimensions of the hole. The bigger the diameter, the more concrete. 2 or 3 bags should do....


I agree sounds quite painful


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

one more for the bandwagon...ouch!


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

You know what, now that I think about it, that does sound painful, but constructive comments would also be welcome!


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## ICM2000 (Sep 14, 2006)

You may know this but need "concrete mix" not straight portland cement. Buy it at Lowes or Home Depot and let it cure for around thirty six hours before mounting the dish. Two to three bags should be adequate. 

Get the pole plumb stake it so it does not move then pour your concrete, don't try to stick the pole in a hole you filled with the concrete mix. Good luck!


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

When you say "concrete" your talking about something like "Quickcrete" That's what I was going to use. I was going to use a standard post hole digger for the hole.

What I'm most concerned about at this point is if that post adapter will fit snug on the fence post. It looks like it will. I need that to get my 2" OD to mount the dish.


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## ICM2000 (Sep 14, 2006)

Correct, but buy the "in house brand" to save a small amount of money. Post hole diggers are fine. You need at least four inch diameter hole to mount a two inch diameter pole but again stabilize the pole then pour the concrete - you want at least a couple inches of concrete around the pole to ensure stability.


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## BobbyK (May 26, 2007)

mluntz said:


> After hearing so many of the horror stories regarding installs, I have decided to install my new Slimline myself as I have with all my previous equipment.
> 
> This is the pole setup i am going to use:
> 
> ...


Its not that big of a deal.
You will need a degree level [a must] post hole digger and one 60lb bag of quikrete. The pole must be plumb to zero degrees. You can get a degree level at Lowes for as little as $10 or $12.


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## HDTVsportsfan (Nov 29, 2005)

I've done a couple of pole mount installes. An 80LB bag of Quickrete usually does the trick.


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## dcbag (Oct 1, 2006)

Very important to put a bolt or something running cross ways in the bottom of post, this is to make sure pole can not turn in concrete.


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## aim2pls (Jun 18, 2007)

MD the frost doesnt go that deep .. 3 ft should be fine 

4" dia hole is a tad narrow .. go for 8 would be better

the truer (plumb) the pole the better .... a tilted pole just makes pointing tougher

and good luck


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## RobertE (Jun 10, 2006)

Just in case your wondering, D*s QC dept requires a minimum of 150lbs for a kaku dish. :grin:


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

RobertE said:


> Just in case your wondering, D*s QC dept requires a minimum of 150lbs for a kaku dish. :grin:


I'm running new Quad RG-6 cable to each room to the other side of the house compared to where we have the Phase III dish due to the possibility of enlarging the deck next year before I call DirecTV to get a HR20 and KA/KU dish installed.

I would have done it this past weekend, but I kept running into problems, then I got worried that the Wall Plate I have (Leviton) might not be compatible with the KA signal (no idea what frequencies it was tested it), and then yesterday, I find out that although I thought I had gotten a pole for the KA/KU dish last year when I tried to get a HR20, I did not.

I'm going to run the cable in the next couple of days, and hopefully the person who will picking the pole up for me (they have a truck, I don't) will be able to get it this week... so I can pour the 180 pounds of concrete I bought the other day for the pole install... 

~Alan


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## donyoop (Apr 6, 2007)

dcbag said:


> Very important to put a bolt or something running cross ways in the bottom of post, this is to make sure pole can not turn in concrete.


A $1.50 2" U-bolt muffler clamp works great, just get it clamped down securely.


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

donyoop said:


> A $1.50 2" U-bolt muffler clamp works great, just get it clamped down securely.


I've never done this the other two times I've done a pole install... and I've never had the dish move an inch... is this mainly for people in windy areas, or for installations where the home doesn't block some of the wind?

~Alan


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## raoul5788 (May 14, 2006)

Alan Gordon said:


> I've never done this the other two times I've done a pole install... and I've never had the dish move an inch... is this mainly for people in windy areas, or for installations where the home doesn't block some of the wind?
> 
> ~Alan


It keeps the pole from spinning, which is unlikely, but it can happen. An easy way is to flatten the end some before putting it in, or put a bolt through it.


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## igator99 (Jul 28, 2006)

mluntz said:


> You know what, now that I think about it, that does sound painful, but constructive comments would also be welcome!


I did my own with a 60 pound bag of quickcrete. Tunning it was not difficult until I lost 119 a month ago. Be careful with the size of the pole. I got a 2" from Lowes only to find out it was exterior and not interior so it didn't fit. I had to cut the original Slimline pole and slide it into the 2" pole from Lowes, drill a hole and put a bolt through it to secure it. I hope this helps and you have better luck than I did.


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## HDTVsportsfan (Nov 29, 2005)

I used sprinkler pipe. Worked for me.
Some say exhaust tubing works, but I have never tried it.


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## RobertE (Jun 10, 2006)

Even easier, flag down someone driving a D* truck. You could work something with him, or one might just fall of it. :grin:


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

2" OD galvanized pipe. done....


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

RobertE said:


> flag down a D* truck, one might just fall of it. :grin:


Isn't this how the HR-20s are getting on ebay? :lol:


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

That pipe adapter from Solid Signal fits right over the existing pole, and the dish should clamp right to it.


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## Teronzhul (Sep 21, 2006)

I need to start following RobertE around and picking up the equipment that drops off his truck 

Anyway, as far as I can tell your links don't work mluntz, but it sounds as if you're planning on putting in a 1.5" pole and then using the 2" adapter from solidsignal. I would strongly suggest finding a proper 2" OD pole and not relying on the smaller diameter fence posts.

A 1.5 inch pole is surprisingly easy to bend with appropriate leverage, so unless your pole is going to be less than 2 feet above the ground it seems a bit risky.

Several posters in this thread have provided options on where to find a 2" OD post. If you're going to do it, do it right.


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## purtman (Sep 19, 2006)

boba said:


> I agree sounds quite painful


If he does what the title says, the only thing he'll be able to do is watch TV. When you "pole mount" yourself, please be sure to have somebody nearby to get you down if necessary.


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## bonscott87 (Jan 21, 2003)

If you're going to get a pole anyway just get the proper one at 2" OD, don't get a smaller one with the adapter. I got the adapter because I already had a 1 5/8" old fence pole in the ground. But if I had put the pole in myself I'd get the 2" from the start.


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## bonscott87 (Jan 21, 2003)

Your other option is to go with a tripod and you don't need cement with that.

See these pics: Sat Pics

This is of my FTA dish setup but you can see it's on a tripod which is bolted down to a platform that I covered in rocks. You can easily do the same with a DirecTV dish. The last pic shows my DirecTV dish as well.


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## purtman (Sep 19, 2006)

Bonscott just reminded me of something. A few years ago when I got married, my wife's condo association included cable with the association fee. We were living in Chicago. Since I already had waivers to Fox 5 out of New York and wanted to watch the Yankees and Giants, I only kept the Fox waiver. What I did was I mounted the TV to one of those metal saw horse/work stations. I made a mark on our driveway. Every Sunday when the Giants came on or on Fridays when the Yankees were on, I'd pop this saw horse into the driveway, switch the cables on the TV, and there it was. I use this just to give you an example of some ways you can do things should you want to do this yourself.


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## cygnusloop (Jan 26, 2007)

I nominate this thread title for the Hall of Fame as the _"Funniest Thread Title Ever!"_


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## purtman (Sep 19, 2006)

Yes. Not only the funniest title yet, but this may be the first install that is literally a pain in the butt.


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## CobraGuy (Apr 23, 2007)

Lowe's sells a very heavy duty pipe that has a 2" OD. Get your wallet out...the 10 footer is about $40. 2" exhaust tubing works great. However, it is not corrosion proof in any way unless you buy stainless...which is very spendy and most shops don't carry it. You could paint the tubing, but that doesn't protect the inside of the pipe. Filling it with concrete should help.


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

How about this pole here?

http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=SKY5999

By the way, I'm glad everybody got such a kick out of the title of the thread!

This whole thing has become a huge "*pain in the butt*"


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## Michael D'Angelo (Oct 21, 2006)

mluntz said:


> How about this pole here?
> 
> http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=SKY5999


That is the pole you need.


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

My only worry with this pole is that it's only 6', which means after sinking it 2' into the ground, it will only be 4' tall.

I was reading somewhere that the FCC requires a minimum of 5'. Is this true?

I emailed Solid Signal about this, and they said not to worry.


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

mluntz said:


> My only worry with this pole is that it's only 6', which means after sinking it 2' into the ground, it will only be 4' tall.
> 
> I was reading somewhere that the FCC requires a minimum of 5'. Is this true?
> 
> I emailed Solid Signal about this, and they said not to worry.


Go find a chain link fencing store near you. That is what I did and could pick thin or thick wall galvanized tubing, sold by the foot. You need 2" OD which [on mine] was stamped on the pipe.


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## raoul5788 (May 14, 2006)

mluntz said:


> How about this pole here?
> 
> http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=SKY5999
> 
> ...


That will work fine, but like another poster said, go to a local fence company. You can get a longer pole for the same money, no shipping costs, and get it right away.


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

igator99 said:


> I did my own with a 60 pound bag of quickcrete. Tunning it was not difficult until I lost 119 a month ago. Be careful with the size of the pole. I got a 2" from Lowes only to find out it was exterior and not interior so it didn't fit. I had to cut the original Slimline pole and slide it into the 2" pole from Lowes, drill a hole and put a bolt through it to secure it. I hope this helps and you have better luck than I did.


Can someone please elaborate as the person (with a truck) who was planning on picking my pole up for me stated that Home Depot only had 2" exterior (OD) and not Interior... and everyone else here keeps mentioning 2" OD instead of ID?

~Alan


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

Alan Gordon said:


> Can someone please elaborate as the person (with a truck) who was planning on picking my pole up for me stated that Home Depot only had 2" exterior (OD) and not Interior... and everyone else here keeps mentioning 2" OD instead of ID?
> 
> ~Alan


No truck here but you need a 2" OD pipe/tubing.
I read that posting and it was simply wrong. OD is what in needed.


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## morgantown (Nov 16, 2005)

There needs to be an award for the best thread titles. I'd vote for this one...


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

OK, so as of yesterday, I now have the right sized pole and an install date of Friday, July 13th... I even got me a U-Bolt to install as well...

Tomorrow I'm going to be going be looking for a spot with a clear line of sight and hopefully install the pole. I currently have the RG6 running from inside the house to a spot under the house where the multi-switch will be which is near where the pole will be... but I haven't decided yet if I wanted to go ahead and run the cable to the dish or not. If I decide to, my question is this:

Currently, I have a drip loop on my Phase III dish, but the KA/KU installation video that I TiVo'ed last year stated that cable bends could become an issue should the bend be... well, too bent. Here is a picture of my Phase III dish... what do you guys think?

Do a drip loop or just have the cables go up straight?

~Alan


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## Michael D'Angelo (Oct 21, 2006)

Alan Gordon said:


> OK, so as of yesterday, I now have the right sized pole and an install date of Friday, July 13th... I even got me a U-Bolt to install as well...
> 
> Tomorrow I'm going to be going be looking for a spot with a clear line of sight and hopefully install the pole. I currently have the RG6 running from inside the house to a spot under the house where the multi-switch will be which is near where the pole will be... but I haven't decided yet if I wanted to go ahead and run the cable to the dish or not. If I decide to, my question is this:
> 
> ...


I don't really think you need a drip loop there. I think you only need one where the grounding blocks are. If I am wrong about that someone please correct me.


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## aim2pls (Jun 18, 2007)

ok 

1) loop is a tad tight ... you want at least a 6 in diameter loop (that isant a loop btw but the bend is a bit tight

2) at the dish itself .. you really have a service loop (aka spare cable when a connector goes bad)


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

BMoreRavens said:


> I don't really think you need a drip loop there. I think you only need one where the grounding blocks are. If I am wrong about that someone please correct me.


My grounding block is under the house, so no need to there...

~Alan


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

aim2pls said:


> 1) loop is a tad tight ... you want at least a 6 in diameter loop (that isant a loop btw but the bend is a bit tight


The picture of course is my Phase III dish, and I've never had any trouble with the cables in the 6 years I've had it there, so I'm not going to worry about it's tightness since it's fixing to go "bye bye" anyway.

If you guys think there is no reason for a drip loop near the satellite anyway, I got no problem not having one.



aim2pls said:


> 2) at the dish itself .. you really have a service loop (aka spare cable when a connector goes bad)


A good idea, but I'm not going to worry about an extra cable since it won't be that much trouble running an extra line or replacing a connector should something happen to one of the runs...

~Alan


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

Alan Gordon said:


> The picture of course is my Phase III dish, and I've never had any trouble with the cables in the 6 years I've had it there, so I'm not going to worry about it's tightness since it's fixing to go "bye bye" anyway.
> 
> If you guys think there is no reason for a drip loop near the satellite anyway, I got no problem not having one.
> 
> ...


From someone that's "been there": it's best to have some slack with the cables at the dish, so you can remove the LNB assembly. I think this is what was meant by a "service loop".


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## Bly (Jul 9, 2007)

I couldn’t find a 2” OD pipe without contacting DTV. I used a 1.5" ID galvanized pipe that's about 1.9" OD from Home depot.. I then wrapped some thin aluminum sheet around the top of the pole to take it to 2 inches.

2 80lbs bags of quickrete.

I made the mistake of NOT placing something on the pole so it couldn’t spin, I should have driller a 1/2” hole all the way through the pipe and stock a piece of copper pipe near the bottom in the concrete to prevent spin. (Or some other scenario). My pole has spun in the concrete already, it sat 2 days curing before I put the dish on too. Spin is obviously really bad! 

If it spins again I’m going to jack out some concrete near the top, drill the hole, place the pipe, and then pure more quickrete on top. 

I also ran a 1.5 inch PVC pipe down 6 inches to a 90 degree then out of the concrete to run cables. Ran 1.5 inch PVC from the pole 15 feet to the house.

Just throwing my $.02 in.


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## bonscott87 (Jan 21, 2003)

Alan, it looks like you already have a pole in the ground that your Phase III is on? Why not just get the pole adapter and put the Slimline on it?

Here is my pole with adapter on it: http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=17360&d=1183314607


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

bonscott87 said:


> Alan, it looks like you already have a pole in the ground that your Phase III is on? Why not just get the pole adapter and put the Slimline on it?
> 
> Here is my pole with adapter on it: http://www.satelliteguys.us/attachment.php?attachmentid=17360&d=1183314607


Next year, we're planning on enlarging the deck which would mean that the pole I have up now would have to be moved... so I decided to go ahead and do it.

*Can someone tell me what Azimuth, Elevation and Tilt that is needed for the 5LNB dish so that I can make sure I have a clear LOS. The zip code is 39842.*

~Alan


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## bonscott87 (Jan 21, 2003)

Alan Gordon said:


> Next year, we're planning on enlarging the deck which would mean that the pole I have up now would have to be moved... so I decided to go ahead and do it.
> 
> *Can someone tell me what Azimuth, Elevation and Tilt that is needed for the 5LNB dish so that I can make sure I have a clear LOS. The zip code is 39842.*
> 
> ~Alan


Just an FYI that it's almost the same as the 3 LNB. Tilt is a bit different but the rest are very similar. The only difference is the 5 LNB is centered on 101 vs. 110 with the 3 LNB.

Think of it this way, the only additional sats are 99 and 103, only 2 degrees either side of 101. So whatever LOS you had for the 3LNB it's exactly the same for the 5 LNB other then you need an extra 2 degrees east for the 99 sat.


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## spoonman (Feb 21, 2007)

mluntz said:


> After hearing so many of the horror stories regarding installs, I have decided to install my new Slimline myself as I have with all my previous equipment.
> 
> This is the pole setup i am going to use:
> 
> ...


I put up my 5-lnb dish. I really don't see what is so hard about it...I didn't have anything high tech to do it and I get 90-100 on all my transponders.


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## carl6 (Nov 16, 2005)

Alan Gordon said:


> *Can someone tell me what Azimuth, Elevation and Tilt that is needed for the 5LNB dish so that I can make sure I have a clear LOS. The zip code is 39842.*
> 
> ~Alan


Az = 212, El = 50, Tilt = 65

Carl


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## Mike500 (May 10, 2002)

You will be absolutey safe, if you use heavy wall schedule 40 galvanized 1-1/4 inch nominal galvanized pipe or conduit. The stuff can be purchased at Lowe's or Home Depot. The actual diameter on the outside is 1.67 or 1-5/8 inches. That is the diameter for the old Phase III dish or Dish Network Dish 500.

A very simple and easy to use set of adapters can be made like this one sold on eBay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150141245747

to allow the diameter to be upped to exactly 2 inches actual; the diameter needed to allow the AU( slimline dish to clamp perfectly tight.

While a 1-1/2 inch nominal pipe with an actual diameter of 1.91 inches might work, I have found that the clamp sometimes will not clamp tight and will slip on the pole. Using the method described above, the clamp has NEVER slipped.

If the pole is no more than 3 feet off the ground and the bottom is well anchored in concrete, even the 1.66 inch diameter galvanized chain link fence line post will work fine.


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## LR308er (Jun 28, 2007)

Awesome thread title.
That's all I read.


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## Alan Gordon (Jun 7, 2004)

bonscott87 said:


> Just an FYI that it's almost the same as the 3 LNB. Tilt is a bit different but the rest are very similar. The only difference is the 5 LNB is centered on 101 vs. 110 with the 3 LNB.
> 
> Think of it this way, the only additional sats are 99 and 103, only 2 degrees either side of 101. So whatever LOS you had for the 3LNB it's exactly the same for the 5 LNB other then you need an extra 2 degrees east for the 99 sat.





carl6 said:


> Az = 212, El = 50, Tilt = 65


Thanks guys... I was going to use a portable dish to check my line of sight (hence the azimuth, elevation and tilt question), but I got tired of waiting on the portable dish (it's not mine, but a neighbor who was kind of busy today) and just guestimated the LOS from my Phase III... and it appears I have a better LOS with this new pole than I did before... not that the old one had a problem.

Tomorrow, I dig the trench from the pole under the house for the RG6, and Friday morning is my install...

~Alan


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## K4SMX (May 19, 2007)

Alan Gordon said:


> Thanks guys... I was going to use a portable dish to check my line of sight (hence the azimuth, elevation and tilt question), but I got tired of waiting on the portable dish (it's not mine, but a neighbor who was kind of busy today) and just guestimated the LOS from my Phase III... and it appears I have a better LOS with this new pole than I did before... not that the old one had a problem.
> 
> Tomorrow, I dig the trench from the pole under the house for the RG6, and Friday morning is my install...
> 
> ~Alan


I just did everything on your list yesterday and today at my NC mountain location (4,400'). Trees all around the house, so a pole was the only answer. My back hurts from carrying those 80 lb. bags of Sakrete. Got about 140 lbs. in the hole I dug yesterday. Couple of Aleves, and I feel all better.  At least the temperature never got above 70.

The absolute most important thing, IMHO, is to get that pole, whatever it's made of, dead plumb. You _don't_ want to have to do it over. You'll be looking at 80's, 90's, and 100's on all applicable TP's soon!


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## Bill Johnson (Apr 3, 2003)

Couple of points to add here:

1. I used Schedule 40 galvanized steel pipe with 1.6" OD for my Phase III dish and that baby is strong, solid and immovable! I'm convinced the proper 2" adapter will be just as rock solid even if the new dish would be twice as big. And I'm talking about routine 30-40 MPH winds where my dish is located.

2. I used a hacksaw to cut a 45 degree angle on pole's bottom prior to sinking. That pole isn't going to twist a scintilla in my lifetime.


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## mluntz (Jul 13, 2006)

I went to Long Fence like you guys suggested. The guy said that he had a D* installer come in every day and get 3 poles he showed me. I said OK, and bought a 8' piece. It was only $16, so I said what the hell!

Get it home, try to attach the Slimline base to the pole. Guess what? Too skinny! I went ahead and ordered the proper pole from Solid Signal.

Makes you wonder how this guy installs the dishes on the job. Maybe he just wraps aluminum foil around the pole!

By the way, I'm glad you all got a kick out of the thread title!

I don't have my HR20-700 yet, can anyone possibly look up the azimuth, elevation, and tilt settings for 21108?

Appreciate it much!


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## veryoldschool (Dec 10, 2006)

mluntz said:


> I went to Long Fence like you guys suggested. The guy said that he had a D* installer come in every day and get 3 poles he showed me. I said OK, and bought a 8' piece. It was only $16, so I said what the hell!
> 
> Get it home, try to attach the Slimline base to the pole. Guess what? Too skinny! I went ahead and ordered the proper pole from Solid Signal.
> 
> ...


What did the pole say on the outside? It should have the OD size there.
Elevation: 38.2
Azimuth: 225.5 [from true north]
This will get the 101 SAT & the box will give you the tilt.


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## 456521 (Jul 6, 2007)

mluntz said:


> I went to Long Fence like you guys suggested. The guy said that he had a D* installer come in every day and get 3 poles he showed me. I said OK, and bought a 8' piece. It was only $16, so I said what the hell!
> 
> Get it home, try to attach the Slimline base to the pole. Guess what? Too skinny! I went ahead and ordered the proper pole from Solid Signal.
> 
> ...


I sent an email to Hoover Fence which states on their website that they have 2" poles. I wanted to clarify whether their 2" poles were exactly 2" OD. This was their response:

=========================================================
Thank you for writing. Unfortunately, our product specifications fall in line with what your other suppliers have. Details on our post diameters can be found here: http://www.hooverfence.com/catalog/chart.htm
I do not know if a product with a true 2'' o.d. Sorry I could not be more helpful. Thank you for choosing Hoover Fence. If I can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact me.
=========================================================

As far as I can tell there doesn't exist a chainlink fence post which is 2" OD. They might say it's 2", but in reality it's about 1.90".


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## Mike500 (May 10, 2002)

As I stated before, you are much better off, if you use 1-1/4 nominal pipe or rigid galvanized conduit with an actual diameter of 1.67 inches and an adapter with an actual diameter of exactlt two inches.

As a stated, it can be had on eBay for less than half of the Solid Signal adapter delivered.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=150141245747&rd=1&rd=1


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