# Ham radio RFI controlling my HR24s



## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

We recently moved to a new home and Directv was kind enough to replace my trusty old HR20-700 dvrs with two HR24 units.

I'm an amateur radio operator, N6LY. I transmit 100w on 10,15,20,40,80m through an Alpha Delta DX-CC fan dipole. It's on a 33ft mast, partially over one corner of the house (2 story). Everything is grounded and tied to the main ground. I have two current baluns on the feedline.

I recently got back on the air. Yesterday, during about 7 hours of California QSO Party operation, I noticed the hr24 upstairs was recording random programs. Upon further inspection, I see that each box turns itself on/off when I key on 80/15m.

I unplugged all cabling into the HR24s except for the power. They still turn on/off (just like pressing the capacitive touch button) on the front panel.

There is no indication of any sat signal interference during operation. Only this odd controlling behavior.

I'm going to make a trip to radio shack today for a bag of snap on ferrite chokes on the power cord. If that doesn't help I don't know what else to do other than wrap the darn things in tin foil or something.

If it was the sat cabling I'd be a little relieved as I could work on the grounding system. The fact that its either getting in via the power cabling or directly into the units themselves is troubling.

Any other ideas?


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## bobnielsen (Jun 29, 2006)

I've had good results with those Radio Shack ferrite cores on things like computer keyboards but haven't run into any issues with my Directv receivers (H24 and HR24). Do you have any other RFI sensitivity issues?

Bob, N7XY


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## Davenlr (Sep 16, 2006)

Is that unit set to use the RF remote?


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

No, they're not set to use RF remotes. I have Harmony ONE controllers that only run IR, so I have them set for IR.

I haven't had any other RF issues except for a set of computer speakers. Ferrite beads took care of that minor noise easily.

Here's the funny thing.

The HR24 downstairs, furthest from the antenna: I placed one sheet of foil on top, not the sides, of the HR24, crumpled to touch metal on the back of the chassis. No more turning off on any of my serviceable bands!

The HR24 upstairs, closest to the antenna: I placed the same foil and it didn't work. It turned on less often, but still turned on/off. I placed TWO sheets of foil around it with a 4 inch hole in the front for the IR sensor. Now I haven't been able to get to cycle when on the air.

I'm going to do a final run in the CA QSO party today, we'll see what happens.

I'm going to pick up some ferrite beads anyways, just because I was out. I guess I could make something up with black cardboard or construction paper that I could place/stick onto the HR24 boxes that wouldn't look totally ghetto. Also I'd need to cut out ventilation slits to match the side of the chassis.

I'm guessing based on evidence that it's probably getting into the RF receiver built in to the HR24s?

Could it be this simple? Totally weird right?

-Bryan, N6LY


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## Davenlr (Sep 16, 2006)

Yea, seems strange, since I thought when the unit was set to IR, the RF receivers were disabled. Maybe not so much


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## n3ntj (Dec 18, 2006)

Rather odd... I am also a ham (N3NTJ) and an electrical/RF engineer but have never had any issues with any of my HR-2x machines turning on/off or anything else while operating HF, VHF, or UHF. Not sure what freq(s) the RF remote runs on, but you mention your IRDs are set to IR remote mode.

How close are your transmission lines or antennas to the location where your IRDs are located? Do the satellite and ham transmission lines every come near each other?

I also occasionally find my HR24 has randomly recorded programs that nobody in my house recorded (often in the middle of the night when I am not on the air)..and figure that is a software bug. I have no other hams/transmission sites near my QTH.

Sounds like you will need to do some diagnostics such as proximity of components. I'd try some RF chokes on the satellite lines as if you're only operating HF, I recall the Ka/Ku signals are in the 300 MHz range when fed to the IRD/BBCs.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

n3ntj said:


> Rather odd... I am also a ham (N3NTJ) and an electrical/RF engineer but have never had any issues with any of my HR-2x machines turning on/off or anything else while operating HF, VHF, or UHF. Not sure what freq(s) the RF remote runs on, but you mention your IRDs are set to IR remote mode.
> 
> How close are your transmission lines or antennas to the location where your IRDs are located? Do the satellite and ham transmission lines every come near each other?
> 
> ...


I'll draw a map of the orientation of my antenna and IRDs in a few minutes.

The Sat wiring and feed line do not come near each other at all except for maybe 8ft in the attic. The sat coax is in a shielded bundle with other pre-wired house wiring. I have a 1:1 current balun at the feed point and a coil choke balun before it gets to my shack.

The problem is that on BOTH IRDs with all cabling disconnected except for power, this unwanted control happens. I'm not sure adding chokes to sat transmission line, phone, cat6 lines would do any good.

I just did a final run at the California QSO party for 5 hours straight with the tin-foil wrap and there was no unwanted behavior from the IRDs. I'll prob just go pick up some snap on beads from Radio Shack for the hell of it, but I think I'm going to have to construct some sort of foil-lined shield for the IRDs here pretty soon.

I'm not sure about adding RF chokes to any other equipment except the power cabling, which I'm still not convinced of. My gut tells me it's getting into the radio receiver. Thus no RX issues, only things happening that could be done with a remote control.


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## carl6 (Nov 16, 2005)

AirShark said:


> I'm guessing based on evidence that it's probably getting into the RF receiver built in to the HR24s?
> 
> Could it be this simple? Totally weird right?
> 
> -Bryan, N6LY


I don't think that is likely, as the RF remote works on 430 MHz. I run 50 watts regularly on VHF and UHF, but don't have an HF transmitter right now. I've never had any problems with radio rf interference with DirecTV equipment, and some of my transmitters are within 18" of the DirecTV stuff.

Carl, N7KUW


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

carl6 said:


> I don't think that is likely, as the RF remote works on 430 MHz. I run 50 watts regularly on VHF and UHF, but don't have an HF transmitter right now. I've never had any problems with radio rf interference with DirecTV equipment, and some of my transmitters are within 18" of the DirecTV stuff.
> 
> Carl, N7KUW


Doesn't seem likely to me either, but I can't discount what I see.

1. Turn off IRD (either one, doesn't matter)
2. Disconnect all cabling from IRD, except power.
3. Key down on mostly 80m/15m SSB. Other bands work sometimes, but not reliably)
4. IRD Turns on/off randomly
5. Turn off IRD
6. Wrap IRD in aluminum foil, touching metal on rear of IRD
7. Key down on 80/15m again.
8. Nothing happens on IRDs

I also run VHF/UHF, but that's been running for months with no issue. This only started with the addition of a new HF antenna at my new QTH.


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## bobnielsen (Jun 29, 2006)

The older DVRs had a metal case which provided much more isolation than the plastic case used on the HR24 and some of the other newer models.

The Radio Shack snap-together core (#23-104) might help if you can get it as close as possible to where the power cable plugs into the DVR. I don't know how many turns of the power cable would fit, however (multiple cores may improve the isolation). Since you have had some success using foil, you probably don't need much filtering.

A power line RFI filter (such as http://www.curtisind.com/files/rfiFilters/F1900-RFI-Filters.pdf) would probably do a good job but might be hard to find and/or pricey and would require splicing into the power cable.

If it were an owned, rather than a leased box, there are better approaches but....


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

I'm going to go buy a bag of large ferrite cores from Ham Radio Outlet tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some luck stacking them up. 

The power cords are removable. I don't see a problem in buying an extra and splicing a line rfi filter in. 

If the foil works and I can back a few layers on black construction paper, that might not be bad either. 

I love a good adventure mystery


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## azarby (Dec 15, 2006)

AirShark said:


> No, they're not set to use RF remotes. I have Harmony ONE controllers that only run IR, so I have them set for IR.
> 
> I haven't had any other RF issues except for a set of computer speakers. Ferrite beads took care of that minor noise easily.
> 
> ...


Since putting foil around the box helps mitigate the problem, you are getting spill over from either your cable or transmitter. This does not seem to be coming through the cabling. I would look at your transmitter or antenna lines and see where you have an RF leak. Time to get the old sniffer out.


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## NR4P (Jan 16, 2007)

Can you temporarily run the hr24 on a ups only no commercial power to see if you decouple from AC power if problem disappears?


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## n3ntj (Dec 18, 2006)

Like the others mention, it sounds like RF is getting into your units from RF leakage somewhere. Not sure if you mentioned how much RF power you are running.

A foil cage should help prevent this issue however can definitely get in the way of normal usage. Problem is that you don't want to tightly foil the sides and tops of the IRDs as they need adequate ventilation. Not sure if an RF choke on the power lines would make a difference since foil on the units themselves partially solved the issue.


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## Stuart Sweet (Jun 19, 2006)

I've heard of this issue before, and it's definitely RF leakage into the box. Since you are not using an RF remote you should be able to put the receiver in a Faraday cage. Since it seems like you're pretty savvy about broadcasting you can probably find out what the right size mesh would be right for isolating the signals you're generating and that should let the HR24 vent properly and give you the isolation you need.


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## paulman182 (Aug 4, 2006)

Move your ham antenna if possible.

I can run 1300 watts into ladderline six inches from one of my HR-24s with no ill effect.

My 400-foot doublet is 300 feet from the house and my trap vertical is 50 feet away.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

azarby said:


> Since putting foil around the box helps mitigate the problem, you are getting spill over from either your cable or transmitter. This does not seem to be coming through the cabling. I would look at your transmitter or antenna lines and see where you have an RF leak. Time to get the old sniffer out.


With the antenna disconnected, 50ohm dummy load attached, it sweeps fine on an antenna analyzer. 1:1 across any frequency. I also have a Narda rf field strength safety meter that registers zero when actually sitting on top of my transmitter during key down. Nothing. I'm fairly confident that anything coming out is coming directly from the radiating elements.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

NR4P said:


> Can you temporarily run the hr24 on a ups only no commercial power to see if you decouple from AC power if problem disappears?


I can do that. I'll give it a shot today.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

n3ntj said:


> Like the others mention, it sounds like RF is getting into your units from RF leakage somewhere. Not sure if you mentioned how much RF power you are running.
> 
> A foil cage should help prevent this issue however can definitely get in the way of normal usage. Problem is that you don't want to tightly foil the sides and tops of the IRDs as they need adequate ventilation. Not sure if an RF choke on the power lines would make a difference since foil on the units themselves partially solved the issue.


I'm only running 100w - prob 1.5dbm of cable loss...so less than 100w radiated.

There are no vent holes on the top of my HR24s, only the sides and back. Shouldn't be hard making something nice that matches the vent hole cutouts. To be clear, I haven't wrapped the entire IRD in foil, just a piece on top, wrapped to barely touch metal chassis on the back, barely hanging over the left side of the chassis.

So far, foil has completely solved the issue it seems. Did a 6 hour final run on the CA QSO Party yesterday, not one problem with either IRD.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Stuart Sweet said:


> I've heard of this issue before, and it's definitely RF leakage into the box. Since you are not using an RF remote you should be able to put the receiver in a Faraday cage. Since it seems like you're pretty savvy about broadcasting you can probably find out what the right size mesh would be right for isolating the signals you're generating and that should let the HR24 vent properly and give you the isolation you need.


Thanks, ill look into it.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

paulman182 said:


> Move your ham antenna if possible.
> 
> I can run 1300 watts into ladderline six inches from one of my HR-24s with no ill effect.
> 
> My 400-foot doublet is 300 feet from the house and my trap vertical is 50 feet away.


I wish it were possible, but it is not.

This is a new rental house we've moved into on a small suburban lot. Like many hams, we don't always have ideal installation areas available. My old QTH had a Hustler 6BTV vertical in the corner of the yard. The only RFI problem I saw with that was a stubborn touch lamp that would move one touch graduation on some freqs. Also a set of computer speakers would growl on a separate antenna system during UHF/VHF xmit.

I use quality cable, all Times LMR400, RG213. All cable gets swept with the analyzer and dummy load before use. I crimp on and then solder my PL259 connectors. Have been doing so for years.

The spot I have the antenna in is literally the only place it will fit since the landlord doesn't want anything mounted to the roof. The Alpha Delta DX-CC is 41ft per leg, one leg actually doesn't even fit, I have to take it four feet over the front fence to tie down. Space limited.

It's a 35ft mast, sunk 2ft into the ground in clay and concrete, braced at 11ft, again at slanted roofline 20.5ft. Leaving 12.5ft above roofline to the feed point.

There's a 1:1 current balun 2ft below the feed point, another 6-inch 8-turn choke at the ground along with the lightning arrestor and ground rod (tied to main house ground),before it climbs the wall into the attic to enter the house. From the attic, it drops down inside of a wall and terminates to a nice wall plate bulkhead in the loft. 6ft of RG213 cables provide equipment jumpers at this point.

I believe you when you say you have no problem operating with your HR24s. I also see that several people have reported RFI issues with their IRDs. You sound like you have a little more room to operate than I do. The DX-CC runs over the top of one corner of house...it also work REALLY well for me.

I had 311 QSOs on it in two short shifts of the CA QSO party this weekend. I'm happy with it, except for this little RFI demon which I feel can be solved.

Here's another guy with a similar problem: http://forums.directv.com/pe/action/forums/displaypost?postID=11128173#e11128173


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## xmguy (Mar 27, 2008)

I'm a CB radio user not Ham (sadly). I have a 50w CB radio Galaxy very near my HR24. I too use IR. I run my signal to a 25Ft Solar Con Di-Pole antenna. Never has my receivers been random ally controlled. Of course I'm only TXing on 26-27Mhz. But you are probably (as others have said) getting RFI via power. The receivers shielding between the power supply and IR/RF decoder isn't shielded for such extreme signals. A Faraday cage would be a good idea. As well as the ferrite clips on the power line into the HR24. See what helps.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Still troubleshooting.

I discovered that if I transmit via my HT (walkie-talkie), on [email protected] within a few feet of my IRDs, they will turn on and off. After a few on off cycles the touch buttons on the front panel become unresponsive.

After reboot, they're working fine again.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Update:

Test conditions are: IRD on UPS, disconnected from house main power. All cables except for power removed. No foil shielding.

If I transmit on 80m SSB, the IRD turns on and off when peak power registers 100w on my Kenwood TS2000. If I transmit on UHF from my HT within about two feet, the IRD turns on and off. After several cycles, the touch sensitive buttons no longer respond. The IRD also no longer responds to radio interference. It still responds to remote commands via IR.

All function is restored after a RBR.

It sounds like the internal rf receiver is getting overloaded and eventually locks some component into a non responsive state..

I suppose the rf could be getting in via the power cord. I'll be placing a few good ferrite cores later today to test. If that doesn't work, it looks like ill be building some sort of faraday cage or shielding.

There's no way I have the energy to call DTV and request different boxes. I can't even imagine how that conversation could possibly go without me beating my head into the wall lol.

I'll keep you posted.

P.S.- the units are HR-24/200


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## Diana C (Mar 30, 2007)

I think the weak link here is the touch panel. I'll bet the RF is inducing a small current in the panel wiring and causing the capacitive discharge buttons to fire. After a bit of this, the random firings lock up the logic circuit and the panel goes unresponsive.

Not that this helps solve your problem, but it also leads one to think that adding chokes on the power cord may not be a solution. Shielding the case may be the best option.

FWIW, I have a 2.4/5MHz hybrid wireless router sitting on the same shelf as one of my HR24s, and if I put it closer than 8 or 10 inches to the HR24 IR remote control functionality gets flakey.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Titan25 said:


> I think the weak link here is the touch panel. I'll bet the RF is inducing a small current in the panel wiring and causing the capacitive discharge buttons to fire. After a bit of this, the random firings lock up the logic circuit and the panel goes unresponsive.
> 
> Not that this helps solve your problem, but it also leads one to think that adding chokes on the power cord may not be a solution. Shielding the case may be the best option.
> 
> FWIW, I have a 2.4/5MHz hybrid wireless router sitting on the same shelf as one of my HR24s, and if I put it closer than 8 or 10 inches to the HR24 IR remote control functionality gets flakey.


I think you're on the right track with this. Makes sense. Especially since all of the weird behavior are commands that could be issued using those capacitive touch buttons. No signal issues, just random commands entered with button instruction available on the front panel.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Jon J said:


> Have you considered sitting for an amateur radio license so you can legally use that much power...not on 11 meters, of course?


Great advice.

I'm a VE with our local group. It's seriously just a multiple choice test that where the q/a bank of questions is publicly published. You should give it a shot.

N6LY


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## NR4P (Jan 16, 2007)

AirShark said:


> Update:
> 
> If I transmit on UHF from my HT within about two feet, the IRD turns on and off.


You just reminded me I had that problem with an HR20-700 some years back. If I used my handheld radio, 4w at 440Mhz within 20 feet of the HR20, it powered on or off with each transmission.

My solution was getting rid of the HR20 and both the HR24 and later the HR34 that replaced it doesn't exhibit the problem. Go figure.


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## ke3ju (Aug 18, 2006)

Jon J said:


> Have you considered sitting for an amateur radio license so you can legally use that much power...not on 11 meters, of course?


Isn't this how every ham gets their start?

I used to run 2kw on 11 before I was licensed, now I run QRP...Ironic?


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## ke3ju (Aug 18, 2006)

carl6 said:


> I don't think that is likely, as the RF remote works on 430 MHz.


I don't realize 70cm was shared with devices...weird...maybe I need look at a current band plan...

Ed KE3JU


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## texasbrit (Aug 9, 2006)

I don't have a radio transmitter, but I have had a similar problem with my HR24 two separate times (each one lasted about three or four days). The HR24 would change channels and skip through the guide without my touching the remote (I am using IR, by the way). On each occasion, I rerouted cables and moved some of the other equipment slightly, and the problem eventually went away, not sure exactly why. On the DirecTV technical forum, a couple of people have reported similar behavior. It's only with the H24/HR24, and I was convinced it was some sort of interference affecting the touch panel.
Titan25's comment about his router is interesting, my hybrid wireless router is actually sitting above the HR24. Next time (if) I have a problem, I will try just moving that and see if it has any effect.


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## hasan (Sep 22, 2006)

ke3ju said:


> I don't realize 70cm was shared with devices...weird...maybe I need look at a current band plan...
> 
> Ed KE3JU


Lots of stuff on 70cm, including wireless weather station sensors (rain gauge, temp, etc).

I run 700 w out on 80 - 10 m. My 80m antenna's base is only 30' from the HR20-700, HR21-100 and H20-200. All set to RF remote. No unusual behavior at all The 40m antenna is another 15' away, and then there is the beam on top of the 50' tower. No problems. Lower az/el antennas for 70cm and 2m show no issues with D* gear either.

I do get some OTA desense from my 2 meter (144.390) aprs signal. I can observe better than 30 dB of desense without my 1/4 wave stub. With the stub, it cures everything but OTA channel 13 (around 210 Mhz), which still dies. The front end of the HR20-700 is not all that great on OTA. The same antenna connected to my Sammy TV shows no desense at all.

The problem you are describing looks like overload, caused by very poor RF shielding in the sat box. Since you can cure it with a tin-foil electrostatic shield, I think you will need to stick with that type of cure. The sat box is permitting HF signals to penetrate the chassis and then there isn't enough rf bypassing/choking inside the box to deal with it.

You'll have to kill it before it gets to the inside of the box, and the fact that the tin foil works, shows you how to proceed with the cure. I doubt the power line common mode choke approach will work.

Good luck, keep us posted.

(73)


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## xmguy (Mar 27, 2008)

"AirShark" said:


> Great advice.
> 
> I'm a VE with our local group. It's seriously just a multiple choice test that where the q/a bank of questions is publicly published. You should give it a shot.
> 
> N6LY


I bought the ARRL amateur radio Technicians hand book. It not taking the test that is a concern for me. Im very versed in RF and electronics. But the ham radio equipment isnt cheap. Thats what holding me back mostly. Hey using 50w may not be legal. But i live so far in the boonies that even that isnt powerful enough to go far.


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## xmguy (Mar 27, 2008)

"ke3ju" said:


> Isn't this how every ham gets their start?
> 
> I used to run 2kw on 11 before I was licensed, now I run QRP...Ironic?


The radio I have can go ABOVE the CB band. But I dont broadcast. It has SSB too. I listen to that. Plus use my Grundig G3 with SW and SSB. Much better on 3Mhz SSB here anyway. I have considered using the 10 meter "CB" radio for Ham if I can get licenced. If I could find a ARRL center near me. Closest one is over 1 hour away.


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## carl6 (Nov 16, 2005)

ke3ju said:


> I don't realize 70cm was shared with devices...weird...maybe I need look at a current band plan...
> 
> Ed KE3JU


Yeah, it's the old "they can't cause interference, and have to accept interference" game, that nobody tests for or enforces. As hasan pointed out, there is a bunch of stuff on 430, but it is all very low power and generally won't cause interference to licensed stations.


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Well, I'm done for the night.

First attempt at a permanent non-ghetto looking solution has failed.

I bought some 1/4 aluminum wire mesh from a hobby store. I also bought a big bag of ferrite chokes.

1. Place EVERY ferrite choke I bought on power cable. Same RFI happens....although now I can only get it to respond on 10m/100w. This new band is the same for every party the test. For some reason 80m isn't bothering it now.
2. Remove chokes and ground chassis to nearby cold water pipe. No luck. Remove new wire.
3. Spray painted on one side of the wire mesh (black). I was very proud of myself as I wrapped the HR24 like a Christmas present. I grounded it to the rear metal chassis. I wrapped the top and sides only, leaving the front panel free. I even took pictures because I was so proud. 10m/100w still causes RFI.
4. I break out the foil again. I wrap it front to back, leaving the sides exposed and torn in front to allow for IR control. Problem solved.....again.


I need to either get some superfine copper/wire mesh, or back some regular aluminum foil on black construction paper. Then proceed to wrap the IRD in black paper, leaving the sides open to vent. Hopefully that will work.

Even though I failed tonight, I still learned what I need to do. I even made up a neat connector for grounding the shield. I took an rg6 connector and made it up without a center pin. On the other end of the three inch cable, I stripped away all but the outer shielding, twisted the braid together. I poked that through the screen mesh and soldered it on. This way, I can just screw the rg6 connector onto my unused coax port on the back to use as a chassis ground point.

On a side note, does anyone wonder why there isn't a three prong cord used on this unit? I guess they get grounding through the coax shield? I double checked, my coax run is grounded at the dish.

The fight shall continue tomorrow.


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## bobnielsen (Jun 29, 2006)

Jon J said:


> Have you considered sitting for an amateur radio license so you can legally use that much power...not on 11 meters, of course?


Back in the mid-1950s, 11 meters *was* an amateur band. I made a few contacts there when I was first licensed.

--n7xy


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## AirShark (Oct 28, 2006)

Come on guys, I posted this thread to discuss RFI into the HR24.

Let's not all get to arguing about HAM and CB pretty please.


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## hasan (Sep 22, 2006)

AirShark said:


> Well, I'm done for the night.
> 
> First attempt at a permanent non-ghetto looking solution has failed.
> 
> ...


You have confirmed the difference between an electrostatic shield and a grounded shield. An electrostatic shield is only effective if not connected to the proximate ground system (like power line ground). Once you connect the shield to ground, you get coupling from the existing poor rf ground and lose the "electrostatic isolation".

This is why the aluminum foil works by itself, but the grid of wires connected to a ground don't.

The problem may be two fold:

Direct radiation, which the aluminum foil kills.

Common mode coupling which the grounded shield wired actually make worse, not better.

Stick with the electrostatic shield.

Possible elegant solution:

There a some companies that make a spray on copper ....Form up something that can go around the receiver (maybe card board?), spray it with the copper paint...it should work like the tin foil, but be more aesthetically pleasing.

Good luck.

73


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## gribe003 (Oct 9, 2013)

Exact same thing happens to my Direct TV control box...when I tune up, it turns the control box turns off. I think my problem is my radio is in the same room as the router and the SWM box that connects my TVs together via the cable internet. From what I gather here, it looks like good old fashioned foil wrap...I will let you guys know. Thanks!
KG4EYG


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## Kb2wzt (Feb 22, 2016)

Hello! Name here is Larry. I see the last post was on 2013! Well the RFI issue is still alive and well (and my wife is pissed!). Direct tv dish is fifty feet from my Ham vertical and maybe 30 from the dipole. 100 watts max, and I shut down my reciever frequently! My station is well grounded and a minimal amount of connections (all soldered no crimps). Can I get a suggestion on type/style and placement of ferrite chokes. I have not yet discussed this with Direct Tv. No DVR, just a standard box which is also at least 20' from my station in the basement!

Thanks,
Larry


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## west99999 (May 12, 2007)

What problems are you having and what type equipment do you have. Model of receiver and type of dish would help. Discussing this with Directv will be a waste of time.


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## Kb2wzt (Feb 22, 2016)

Thanks for the reply West99999! I have two H24-100 recieviers. Not sure of the dish model. When I transmit the system freezes up and has to reboot. Maybe some suceses today; Went to Radio Shack and picked up three snap on chokes. Put one on each box at the connector and a third on the input side of the splitter in the basement. BTW the splitter is not grounded, but when I tuned up to 100 watts on 20 meters, the tv stayed on! Need to try some other bands. And you were correct; DTV wanted $50.00 to send out a tech to fix their issue. I argued this till I was blue in the face, but using big words like RFI only confused them more! Thanks again for the reply!


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## west99999 (May 12, 2007)

I have had several problems with the model you have and others that have the touch screen panel on the front only fix I have found that works is to change them out out for models that don't have the touch screen panel on front. H25 or older model should work if you can't find another fix.


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## alnielsen (Dec 31, 2006)

I wish my HF radios worked. My 2M radio is just a few feet from the LNB and it hasn't given me any problems.


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## bobnielsen (Jun 29, 2006)

My multi-band vertical is about 12 feet from my Slimline dish and maybe 15 feet from one of my receiver locations. I now have a HR54 there but previously had a H24 there with no RFI problems at all. I usually run 100 watts (40 - 10 meters) but have run 500 watts and still no issues. I wonder if some receivers are more sensitive than others of the same model?


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