# Need help setting up 1000.4 system



## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

Attempted to set up a new eastern arc dish with an existing receiver, and ran into troubles. First, I ran a check switch with the incoming feed disconnected to clear the receiver. Then I peaked the signal strength, using the on-screen signal strength meter. I set the receiver at satellite 72, transponder 21. With my son yelling out the window, I maxed out the signal and came in, ran a check switch, aquired a satellite signal and the program guide, and received signal on satellite 61.5 only. Apparently, I peaked the dish on "wrong satellite". 

My first thought was that the hole I was shooting through between the trees was only allowing one satellite, so I moved the dish to another location. When I was peaking at the new location, I received signal at all 3 satellite locations as I was moving the dish around trying to find 72.7, before finding and peaking the dish at the 72.7 location.

So, I went through the process again. Ran check switch, aquired signal and program guide, and received signal on 72, but nothing else. Details information shows a good connection on all 3 ports but no signal.

Any suggestion on why I can only receive one satellite at a time? I was connected to port one on the LNBs the whole time. Do I need to connect to port 2 (default 72.7) when doing my setup?

Any other suggestions?


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

The best way to get only one bird is to have the skew wrong. Have you confirmed your elevation and skew on dishpointer.com?


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## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

I set the elevation and skew according to the zipcode tables in the manual.


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## [email protected] Network (Jan 5, 2011)

See if dishpointer.com as mentioned above gives the same angles, if different trust dishpointer.com and try it. If I understand what you said about only using Port 1 then check the LNBF itself. There should be 3 cables going into a switch (1 for each satellite location)


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

[email protected] Network said:


> See if dishpointer.com as mentioned above gives the same angles, if different trust dishpointer.com and try it. If I understand what you said about only using Port 1 then check the LNBF itself. There should be 3 cables going into a switch (1 for each satellite location)


The 1000.4 has a built in switch ... one cable out to each receiver.

The only need for an external switch is if one is feeding more than three receivers or wants to do something strange (such as mix in more than one signal from another dish - a single feed from another dish can be connected to the input on the 1000.4 to feed three receivers).

mcjunk, look at your check switch screen and tell us what the boxes say. On a properly aimed 1000.4 (Eastern Arc) you should see 77, 72, 61.5 as Port 1 2 3 and the other two columns blank. What do you see?


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## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

The check switch screen only shows one satellite (the one I'm receiving). The other columns are blank. 

One other thing I just thought of that may not be of any significance - The seperator is installed between the incoming signal and the receiver. Does it have to be disconnected when peaking the dish (incoming signal straight to the Satellite IN 1 port)?


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## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

Skew difference between manual and dishpointer is 0.5 degrees
Elevation difference between manual and dishpointer is 0.5 degrees

Is that enough to make a difference?


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

mcjunk said:


> The check switch screen only shows one satellite (the one I'm receiving). The other columns are blank.


Which columns show what? That might help you determine which LNB is receiving the signal (covering the other two with foil and seeing if you lose signal is another way).

If all you are seeing is the ONE satellite in the first column and four completely blank columns then there may be a problem with the switch built in to the LNB.

What does it say in the "Device" box for each column? What does it say under "switch"? Device should be "1K.4", switch should be "DPP 1K.4" for both tuners.



> One other thing I just thought of that may not be of any significance - The seperator is installed between the incoming signal and the receiver. Does it have to be disconnected when peaking the dish (incoming signal straight to the Satellite IN 1 port)?


It can stay there. I assume you are seeing the same pattern for both tuners?



mcjunk said:


> Skew difference between manual and dishpointer is 0.5 degrees
> Elevation difference between manual and dishpointer is 0.5 degrees
> 
> Is that enough to make a difference?


0.5 degrees is minor. Azimuth would be the other number to check ... the actual direction you're pointed in. Once you figure out what head you're using on the LNB and if there is a more serious issue we can figure out which way to go to get it dialed in.

(Of course ... all of this is assuming that the rest of the install is correct ... which includes having the top of the pipe you put the dish on perfectly level and not at an angle. That includes the top of the pipe on the angled mounting arm that comes with the dish. If you don't start with a level mount adjustments are not easy.)


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## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

I'm pretty sure everything is level, if I can trust the torpedo level I was using. Plus, when I was peaking, I saw a signal from all three satellites at one azimuth or another.

I can't see the receiver from here, but I do know that 1K.4 was in the device row for each of the satellites. One of the colums has 72 or 72.7, and the other two may just say CONN. When I click on details, it says signal for the 72 satellite, but connections are good and no signal for the other two.


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

mcjunk said:


> I can't see the receiver from here, but I do know that 1K.4 was in the device row for each of the satellites. One of the colums has 72 or 72.7, and the other two may just say CONN. When I click on details, it says signal for the 72 satellite, but connections are good and no signal for the other two.


As noted above, the normal order is 77-72-61.5 ... look at where 72 is on your screen. If it is in the first slot then your dish needs to be turned counter-clockwise (looking down on the pipe) until you're receiving "wrong satellite 77" on your point dish screen. If 72 is in the third slot your dish needs to be turned clockwise (looking down on the pipe) until you're receiving "wrong satellite 61.5" on your point dish screen.

Make sure you have your point dish screen looking at satellite 72 while you are doing this. The transponder you are using is also important because not all transponders are visible from all locations. Transponders 6, 12, 16, 17, 18, 21, 22, 25, 28, 29 or 32 should have some signal regardless of which of the three satellites you're seeing.

Once you have "wrong satellite 77" (if 72 was in the first box) or "wrong satellite 61.5" (if 72 was in the third box) STOP. Go back inside the house and run another check switch. At minimum the box that had 72 in it should change to the correct number (77-72-61.5 left to right). At best you'll see all three slots.

If 72 is in the 2nd slot or once you have 77-72-61.5 in that order you can do the fine tuning to get all three satellites working. If all you have is 72 in the 2nd box then peak it the best you can then run a check switch and hope the others come in. Once the others come in you may have to compromise some to get a good signal on all satellites. Use the fine tuning adjustments on the dish to make small adjustments on the aiming. Large adjustments will just make the process more complicated.


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## Michael P (Oct 27, 2004)

mcjunk said:


> I'm pretty sure everything is level, if I can trust the torpedo level I was using. Plus, when I was peaking, I saw a signal from all three satellites at one azimuth or another.
> 
> I can't see the receiver from here, but I do know that 1K.4 was in the device row for each of the satellites. One of the colums has 72 or 72.7, and the other two may just say CONN. When I click on details, it says signal for the 72 satellite, but connections are good and no signal for the other two.


Check the level at 2 points on the mount 90 degrees apart. It's possible to get a level reading on one side but not be level 1/4 of the way around. I use a torpedo level too, and in the self install instructions they tell you to take 2 level readings before you lock down the mast. With a 3 satellite multi dish this becomes more critical than in the days of the single 18" dishes.


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## mcjunk (Oct 25, 2005)

Thanks for the input. I believe I have it figured out. 72 is in the first column on the check switch screen. The other two columns have "X"s. The dish is not aimed properly. 72 is coming in through the wrong LNB.


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## runner861 (Mar 20, 2010)

Perhaps off-topic, but I will ask it here. Is the 1000.4 used for WA as well? Or what is the preferred WA setup? I have a 1000.2 receiving 110, 119, and 129. I used to have a 61.5 wing dish, but I took it down.


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## James Long (Apr 17, 2003)

runner861 said:


> Perhaps off-topic, but I will ask it here. Is the 1000.4 used for WA as well? Or what is the preferred WA setup? I have a 1000.2 receiving 110, 119, and 129. I used to have a 61.5 wing dish, but I took it down.


Recently DISH introduced a new LNB/switch that allows the 1000.4 dish to be used on Western Arc. The 1000.2 will work fine as well.


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## RocketNJ (Jul 29, 2003)

Been reading this thread. Thanks for the tips about where the sats show (which columns). I'll be repalcing my 500/300 setup with a 1000.4 EA tomorrow. The info in this thread will help with troubleshooting (if needed).

I know to plumb the mast in two locations 90 degrees apart and tighten the dish as much as possible but still be able to turn it so the elevation is not off.


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## dontech (Jun 1, 2009)

I am also doing the same to migrate from a split arc 110/119/61.5 to eastern arc.
I have my 61.5 dish currently sitting on a tree stump high on my back hill. I want to find a better spot on that hill to put in a pole. Today I went up there with the dish1000.4 on a pipe and held it in what I thought was the best spot ( near my 61.5) and was only able to get 70 on my spot beam on 61.5 and 24 on transponder on 72.7. I did a checkswitch before with everything disconnected to clear my old settings. It does not look like I have any obstructions, since I am under trees. However, I am concerned that the highest I got with this method was 24 for signal strength. I have aimed my dish 500 on 110/119 using this method and had no problems locating a spot for that pole . I also had a signal strength meter at the dish and had my son inside reading values. Usually I get signal readings for most transponders from 46-62 on 61.5 except for the spot beam. Any suggestions? Is this a poor method for figuring out where to put a pole for a 1000.4? Thanks for your opinions!


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## dontech (Jun 1, 2009)

One more comment -- would I be better off with this test of looking at signal strength on 72 and the pole to try a dish 300 for my test and find the best spot? It might be easier to manipulate and give me a better indication of what I can expect for strength on 72


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## harsh (Jun 15, 2003)

dontech said:


> One more comment -- would I be better off with this test of looking at signal strength on 72 and the pole to try a dish 300 for my test and find the best spot?


Don't waste your time. If the satellite can see the dish, the dish will get full signal. It is when you're looking to shoot through holes in foliage, you'll need to wait until everything leafs out.


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## dontech (Jun 1, 2009)

Does anyone know if part of the 1000.4 install during checkswitch if there is an automatic download of software to coordinate with the 1000.4 builtin switch? I did not run checkswitch during my signal strength test and am wondering if that software might not be on my 722k, causing lower signal strength readings?


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## gtal98 (Jan 30, 2011)

dontech said:


> Is this a poor method for figuring out where to put a pole for a 1000.4?


Yes, yes it is. The EA dish is the most finicky one to install, to get signal peaked in you really have to use the fine adjustment settings on the dish and will end up giving up a little signal one one sat to bring the others into an acceptable range.

Using an inclinometer is always the best way to pick out a spot, but most people don't have one. It might be possible to make a makeshift one with a compass a protractor and a level though - because all an inclinometer is is a compass and angle finder combined.

First go to dishpointer.com and find the satellite setup data for each satellite individually (61.5, 72.7, 77). Note the magnetic azimuth and elevation. Then Use a compass to find your direction, then tape a pencil or something on the protractor at the 5* less than elevation angle. Use a torpedo level to keep the protractor level and look down the line of the pencil. As long as the treetops are at or below the level of the pencil you have good clear LOS with at least 5* of clearance. Repeat the setup for the other 2 sats. Once you find a spot where all three are clear, plant your pole.


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## gtal98 (Jan 30, 2011)

Oh, and the proper software for the EA is on your 722k, don't worry about that. But, if you run it without the dish properly aimed it might not recognize all three sats when you run the checkswitch.


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