# Need help 775 error



## gflande1

Just got home and found a message on my HR34 stating "Problem communicating with dish. Press select on more info (775)". Called Directv and they had me disconnect both coax from SWiM and touch the copper wire on each. Then they had me reconnect, unplug for 30 secs, then plug back in. Green light on SWiM is on. After reboot of HR34, error came back. tech said they have to send someone out to replace SWiM. Soonest is Wednesday (today is Saturday). I was looking forward to some Olympics, football and True Blood. Wtf

Any suggestions to get this back online?


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## gflande1

found local dealer that sold me the module for $15.


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## gflande1

well, that didn't work failed during "receiving satellite info..." followed steps above, and failed again. special steps to install?


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## Stuart Sweet

Most likely this is a loose or weak connection, not a module failure.


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## Drucifer

Have you check the SWiM power inserter?


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## gflande1

sorry, that's what this thing is, says power inserter on back. 

everything has been working fine since install 4 months ago. checked all connections, including at dish. everything seems tight. 

wife says power went out briefly last night.


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## NR4P

Is the HR34 your only receiver? Is there another receiver that is working?


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## gflande1

two receivers HR34 and H21. didnt think to check H21, it's also down, code 771a


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## Laxguy

Anything that might have bumped the dish?


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## Shades228

No VOS yet? He must be doing a BBQ.

First off check to ensure that you're PI is in the red port to the splitter and that someoen didn't move something around when cleaning. If the light is on the PI it's working. I've never seen a failure on a unit with the light on, not saying it's impossible, but usually this leads to a connection issues somewhere or as stated a bad cable. If your power went out did you have a bad storm?


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## gflande1

everything looks good, nothing changed. I checked that everything was wrench tight. two coax connected to splitter. one is in red, however, I don't know which coax is which. with no signal, I don't know how I would figure this out. we have had storms the last couple days. wife said power went out for a short time last night.


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## Drucifer

Long shot on maybe this is or isn't an issue, but is the PI plug directly into a wall outlet and not a power strip. There were reports of PIs having issues with some power strips.


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## gflande1

originally wall, new one in power strip. I will try


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## gflande1

no change moving power back to outlet.

out of curiosity, I checked the voltage coming out of the power inserter. both, the new and old one are 20.7 volts (guess that means I didn't need to buy one). I measured it at the LNB and it was 20.6. so voltage is making it out there, so no breaks. I also confirmed the wire coming from the splitter with voltage is connected to red. does this mean bad LNB?


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## Shades228

Before we get into a ton of trouble shooting let's rule something out first.

Did anyone during any testing, troubleshooting, or cleaning move around the coax cables form the PI to the splitter or receivers?


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## veryoldschool

gflande1 said:


> no change moving power back to outlet.
> 
> out of curiosity, I checked the voltage coming out of the power inserter. both, the new and old one are 20.7 volts (guess that means I didn't need to buy one). I measured it at the LNB and it was 20.6. so voltage is making it out there, so no breaks. I also confirmed the wire coming from the splitter with voltage is connected to red. does this mean bad LNB?


I would pull out my spare LNB and try it, at this point.


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## Sea bass

Shades228 said:


> Before we get into a ton of trouble shooting let's rule something out first.
> 
> Did anyone during any testing, troubleshooting, or cleaning move around the coax cables form the PI to the splitter or receivers?


This was exactly the problem for me once. Bad connection to PI. New connector on coax, tightened everything up, entered new channel (202) on the remote, all ok, picture returned. For me, the PI was not secured. It would get bumped by my cat! I rushed the job... Never again! Do it once, do it right!


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## HoTat2

The OP said he measured voltage from the PI all the way out to the connection point at the LNB.

So as VOS points out its time to look at the SWiM-LNB as possibly dead.


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## Shades228

I asked because I'm wondering if someone connected the PI to the non red port.


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## dielray

"Shades228" said:


> I asked because I'm wondering if someone connected the PI to the non red port.


The voltage at the LNB indicates that is unlikely.


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## Shades228

dielray said:


> The voltage at the LNB indicates that is unlikely.


If someone swapped it and then swapped it back it would fry the tuners resulting in a 775.


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## veryoldschool

Shades228 said:


> I asked because I'm wondering if someone connected the PI to the non red port.





dielray said:


> The voltage at the LNB indicates that is unlikely.





Shades228 said:


> If someone swapped it and then swapped it back it would fry the tuners resulting in a 775.


Can you explain?


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## texasbrit

Shades228 said:


> If someone swapped it and then swapped it back it would fry the tuners resulting in a 775.


Why? If you connect the PI to a non-power passing port, that is all that happens. No power passes. Put it back on the red port, power passes. No frying of tuners.


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## HoTat2

Shades228 said:


> If someone swapped it and then swapped it back it would fry the tuners resulting in a 775.


But that wouldn't account for the OP's H21 being out with a 771a (same as 775) error message as well.


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## HoTat2

texasbrit said:


> Why? If you connect the PI to a non-power passing port, that is all that happens. No power passes. Put it back on the red port, power passes. No frying of tuners.


By "swap" I think Shades228 means is at some point someone may have accidentally installed the PI backwards for a time damaging the HR34's tuners.

But as I point out, that wouldn't account for the H21 being out with a 771a message as well.


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## gflande1

Nothing swapped. 

I'm back online. Tech wasn't receiving a signal from the LNB. He replaced that, and still nothing. He replaced both splitters and the ends, and it started working again. Strange I was getting voltage at the LNB. Guess the connection wasn't good enough to allow the signal through. Could the storm/power outage have caused this? or was it a bad connection in the first place that happened to fail during the storm? Either way, I'm happy again.*

Thanks for all the inputs.

PS is it appropriate to tip a tech? I wasn't sure, so I didn't (my wife gets on my ass for wanting to tip everyone. So I'm hesitant. happy wife means happy life, right?) . Maybe I should have, he made me happy again.


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## gflande1

Not much changed. Tech did remove one of the ground lugs. Said grounding to splitter wasn't necessary. I added a 6 inch piece of 12 gauge copper between the ground lug and green screw on splitter (not pictured). Don't know if that was necessary, but it doesn't hurt. what you think?*


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## veryoldschool

I can't follow the wiring in your photo. It's like there is a missing part to it. 
Water/corrosion on connectors can have been the problem all along. :shrug:
Grounding the splitter so close to the ground block shouldn't matter or help.


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## HoTat2

What's particularly confusing to me is that while I can make out what is the single line from the dish/SWiM-LNB assembly to the single barrel ground block. From thereon how and why does the single black colored coax out from the other side of the ground block turn into that double gray coax run of which one feeds the input to the 1 x 2 SWiM splitter?


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## BobStokesbary

veryoldschool said:


> I can't follow the wiring in your photo. It's like there is a missing part to it.
> Water/corrosion on connectors can have been the problem all along. :shrug:
> Grounding the splitter so close to the ground block shouldn't matter or help.


OP posted more on another forum. But, he is basically up and running now so he is not really looking for an answer to his question.

What you see is very confusing. He apparently switched from Dish to Directv and the installer used a former dual RG6 line that ran from the dish to the outside connection box. So ignore the meaningless second main line that is just hanging there. Then the installer missed an opportunity to ground the splitter and/or place the grounding terminal directly in the line, choosing instead to pass the satellite line to the splitter than put the grounding terminal on the line to one of the receivers. The picture makes more sense when you see what was posted on the "other" forum.

But, the problem has been solved by a tech call.


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## Beerstalker

Looks to me like his DirecTV lines aren't grounded at all. It looks like he has another line coming in (cable for internet?) that is the black lines that are grounded at the ground block. I'm guessing the grey lines are the lines from the SWM dish, and the 2 black lines go into his house to his receivers and power inserter. The DirecTV system used to be grounded at the splitter, but now the tech removed the ground so it is no longer grounded.


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## christinegrant98

Directv Error code 775 usually results due to connection problems. It is often caused by disruption of signal relay, or hardware issues like if you have unplugged cables or loose ones. The easiest way out of the problem is to switch off your device, plug in all your cables properly and double check that they're secure, and reboot the device. This will eliminate all issues within your control that can cause this problem. As for the issues with signal receiving, it's not controllable. At best, you can check if there's an obstruction on your receiver instrument, but that's about it. Rarely, other issues can play a role and cause this problem.
If you've been bothered by error code 775 on your Directv, you can find proper and in depth resolution step by step on this link: http://errorcodespro.com/directv-error-code-775-fix-problem-communicating-dish/


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## HoTat2

christinegrant98 said:


> Directv Error code 775 usually results due to connection problems. It is often caused by disruption of signal relay, or hardware issues like if you have unplugged cables or loose ones. The easiest way out of the problem is to switch off your device, plug in all your cables properly and double check that they're secure, and reboot the device. This will eliminate all issues within your control that can cause this problem. As for the issues with signal receiving, it's not controllable. At best, you can check if there's an obstruction on your receiver instrument, but that's about it. Rarely, other issues can play a role and cause this problem.
> If you've been bothered by error code 775 on your Directv, you can find proper and in depth resolution step by step on this link: http://errorcodespro.com/directv-error-code-775-fix-problem-communicating-dish/


Thanks for all this;

However, if you'll notice your responding to an old thread which ended way back in Aug. of 2012.

So the OP has either long fixed the problem or moved on to another service by now ... 

Sent from my LGMS550 using Tapatalk


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