# 722k hangs up at "Starting Up" screen



## Jim Parker

I ran into a problem that Dish tech support could not solve and am posting the issue in the off chance that somebody else runs into this problem.

The 722k replacement for a failed 622 would not go past the screen with the big white DISH text and a red shaded area under DISH. The lower right had "Starting up".

The fix was to disconnect the cables at the 33 switch that go from the switch to the 722k and reconnect them.

Background: I had three 622s fail in a period of 4 months, all with the same symptom - the units would turn on with a green light for about 2 seconds then go off. They would cycle thru this every 4 or 5 minutes. If they were unplugged for hour or so, they would sometimes come up again, but the likelyhood of them coming up decreased over a period of a few days until they would not come up at all. The local dealer tells me this is an indication that the power supply has failed.

The CSR that I talked to after the second failure said that they would send a 722 instead of a 622, but I got another 622. That one lasted 2 weeks. 

After the 3 failures, I insisted on a 722 but had to get passed up the chain of command as the first CSR did not have the authority to send a 722. After agreeing to a new 24 month commitment, a 722k (not a 722) was shipped to me.

I powered up the 622 and moved two shows from it to the external drive, then disconnected it and installed the 722k. It came up with the screen that shows that the 3 satellites are found and the signal is locked. 

I did not do a check switch test here, which may or may not have been the cause of the problem.

It down loaded the updated software (the green bar took about 5 minutes to complete) and downloaded the guide info.

At that point, it changed to a dark screen with DISH in big white letters, a red shaded area below it and "Starting up" in the lower right. It hung on that screen but would reboot every few minutes and come back to that screen.

After about 45 minutes, I unplugged the 722 and it came right back up the same screen. I tried the red reset button, power button hold reset, unplugging, disconnecting the coax cables from the input, menu button etc multiple times all with the same results.

So I called tech support. After telling him the story, (and telling him that I'm an electrical engineer and know what I'm talking about) he has me go thru all of the same things multiple times again. After 30 minutes, he decides he can't help me and has to transfer me to advanced support. So he transfers me and I get dropped off. Great:nono2:

I call back and tell the next guy the entire story and asked to be transfered to advanced support. He says he can't do that and has me go thru the entire thing again. After 20 minutes, he says that neither he nor advanced support can do anything more and a service call will have to be made.

We set up the appointment for the next day to trouble shoot the 722k and replace my 510 with a new 722.

I take the 722k to the local dealer and have him connect it up on his test bench. It comes right up! 

He thinks the most likey problem is that there is a problem with the power: there is voltage on the neutral of the receptacle. That would explain the three 622 failures. I'm skeptical, but will check it out.

I go home, test the circuit and there is only 0.25v between the neutral and ground - that is reasonable so there is nothing wrong with the power. I install it and it comes up to the same screen again.  I unplug it and run an extention cord from the kitchen counter circuit and still get the same screen. OK, it is not a power problem.

At this point, I'm grasping at straws, but come up with the idea of checking the connections on the switch. I climb up on the roof, unscrew and reconnect the cables from the switch to the 722. I climb back down and the 722 is downloading the guide!

After that is done, I do a Check Switch and everything seems to be working correctly now. 

The box needs to be authorized, so I call Dish. The automated system finds a problem (you think?) and I get transferred to a CSR. He asks me if the installer solved my problem, to which I reply that he did not, I figured it out. He has to close the work order to complete the authorization. I tell him to close the trouble shooting order but leave the order open for replacing the 510 with a 722. The 722 says it is authorized. I ask him if the 510 replacement order is still in effect and he says it is. Don't get ahead of me now. 

I call the local installer to ask about the 510 replacement and the order has been closed. :nono2: I make an appointment for it at a later date.

A couple of hours later I get an email from Dish asking if the visit from the installer solved my problem. 

And to top it all off, I lost my OTA connection. I asked for a 722 but I did not understand the difference between a 722 and a 722k enough to have insisted on a 722.


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## TulsaOK

OK, I read your post and only nodded off three times. Is there a question in there somewhere that I missed?


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## saberfly

Ok you lost me after "I ran into a problem that Dish tech support could not solve"


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## phrelin

You have my sympathy.

Sounds to me like you've solved your problem other than you need the OTA module for your 722k and you're probably going to have to live with a screwed up paperwork history.

Where I live, I do everything I can think of to fix a problem myself. Do a Check Switch, a hard reboot (unplug the power, wait 20 seconds, plug it in and let it do its thing). Tighten and test all physical connections (not an easy task as it takes an extension ladder to check one of my dishes and the switch). 

If none of that works, I take a deep breath then call tech support. Do whatever they ask which won't solve the problem. 

When possible, I ask that they send the replacement equipment without a service call.

The "where I live" reflects a reality, because except for delivering a new piece of equipment, the "subcontractor" to the contractor to Dish will not be very useful as he will be far less knowledgeable than me.

I've never had a serious problem properly fixed by Dish except to deliver new equipment for me to install.

But the thing is, over the many years the actual number of failures have been very few and far between.


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## Jim Parker

Kent Taylor said:


> Is there a question in there somewhere that I missed?


No question. I searched the site and did not find anybody else who had run into this, which is why the second half of the first sentence is:
"in the off chance that somebody else runs into this problem",
the second sentence is the problem and the 3rd sentence is the solution.

My intent for writing it was to try to spare somebody else from having to go thru what I did.

Yes it's long, but it was a long process of trouble shooting.

OK, I admit there was some venting on my part about the Dish support. I was frustrated over 3 failures in a short time and to spend half of a day trying to get the 722 working just added to it. I'll get over it.


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## [email protected] Network

Just wanted to give a little insight, as I have seen the issue you had with your receivers, and your fix may only be temporary. Typically when you are able to get a receiver to power up by disconnecting the feed lines that means there is likely a short along the cable or a bad ground on the satellite system itself. Being that it affected so many receivers and in such a short time frame at that location, you are likely to see another issue in the near future. While the temporary fix is to disconnect the feed, you may lose another box to hard drive failure if the receiver keeps resetting or not powering up. My suggestion (if you are comfortable with it, and you mentioned you were) is to go through and check each fitting in the line, especially at the grounding block. Also, make sure the ground wire is solidly connected to a good ground. Hopefully that helps.


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## Stewart Vernon

Maybe I'm grasping here... but I think I've read somewhere that you need to have Dish Pro Plus LNBs in order to use the DPP33 switch and run a receiver like a 622/722/722K.

I know you do if you use the DPP separator instead of running two individual lines to the receiver.

Are you using a separator OR do you have two coax feeds going to the receiver?


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## P Smith

Stewart Vernon said:


> Maybe I'm grasping here... but I think I've read somewhere that *you need to have Dish Pro Plus LNBs in order to use the DPP33 switch* and run a receiver like a 622/722/722K.
> 
> I know you do if you use the DPP separator instead of running two individual lines to the receiver.
> 
> Are you using a separator OR do you have two coax feeds going to the receiver?


Seems to excessive burden - technically speaking there is no DPP LNBF, by the term it described a combination of DP LNBF and internal DPP switch, so
- DPP33 or DPP44 or DPP64 switch doesn't required "DPP LNBF".


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## Jim Parker

Tony
Thanks for the advice. I'll check the wiring. I know the DPP33 is grounded at the switch as I looked at it while working on the coax. The other end used to be grounded to the electrical service, but I have dogs.....

There is a separator just before the 722.

I'm puzzled as to why removing the coax from the back of the 722 did not reset the box like disconnecting it at the switch did. I used to have a SW64 switch which took power (it was in line with the coax between the SW64 and the 921). I replaced the Legacy LNBs and the SW64 when I upgraded from the 921 to the 622. I don't think the DPP33 needs power, so I understand that disconnecting the coax at the SW64 would reset the switch but I don't see how the DPP33 would know the difference between disconnecting at the switch or at the 722.


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